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Long term Honda lover! Had a 30 new in 89 and forever regretted selling it! Managed to pick another up just before covid struck and have finally got her on the road (with two disks) 👍 1988 14,000 miles and had its first MOT last week (Ornament before). Great to be back on one, although at 61 don't think I'll be doing what I did on the first one, Northampton to Bol d'Or in a day. 968 miles and it nearly killed me 😜 Andy M

I had a similar experience after using Risolone coolant flush. After bringing temp up to about 160 degrees,idle went and stayed around 2500 to 3000 RPM. Repeating shutdown and restart again and again,I immediately let cool a bit and drained/flushed entire system and restarted with plain water. I did this 3 times before normal RPM operation returned with clean anti freeze. The wax unit must be very sensitive I concluded especially after reading this post. Scared the living crap out of me. This may not pertain exactly to this post,but has some similarities.

Welcome to VFRD from across the North Sea! 61 too and yes, low clipons and Italian "suspnsion" are a bit more challenging these days. But I'll still ride her to the IOM Manx GP in August

More parts arrivals today. For the XT350 a missing part And for the Bandit 600 a not perfect but for money good tank, yes wrong color as has a small dent but good enough to use one season, then repaint next winter I need to start working on the bikes now. Still picking up a few small parts tomorrow from a local store, then just to start working

For a variety of reasons I last rode my VFR over a year ago - zero miles in 2023. Today I threw off the cover, dusted off the cobwebs, cleaned and lubed the chain, then replaced the battery and started it for the first time in a few months. Fingers' x'd that I'll manage to get a ride in this year.

Indeed. I suppose that after 93K km & 13 years I can't complain. Other than consumables, the only failure has been the original stator at 50K km.

Looking good Lorne. The experience I've had with CCT's is that the clatter noise has always been evident high up at the cam covers on the R/H side, and its not difficult to identify if its the front or rear playing up by the noise location. Clutch basket noise obviously should come from down low around the clutch cover region. So it should be easy to determine whether its clutch or cct noise. Clutch noise might also change (unlike cct noise) if you pull the clutch in. Cheers

Somebody on this forum provided me this info when I did the 929 shock conversion. Use this for guidance AFTER you have properly set sag. LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (FORK) • The fork offers a supremely plush ride, especially when riding straight up. When the pace picks up, however, the feeling of control is lost. The fork feels mushy, and traction "feel" is poor. • After hitting bumps at speed, the front tire tends to chatter or bounce. • When flicking the bike into a corner at speed, the front tire begins to chatter and lose traction. This translates into an unstable feel at the clip-ons. • As speed increases and steering inputs become more aggressive, a lack of control begins to appear. Chassis attitude and pitch become a real problem, with the front end refusing to stabilize after the bike is countersteered hard into a turn. TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (FORK) • The ride is quite harsh--just the opposite of the plush feel of too little rebound. Rough pavement makes the fork feel as if it's locking up with stiction and harshness. • Under hard acceleration exiting bumpy corners, the front end feels like it wants to "wiggle" or "tankslap." The tire feels as if it isn't staying in contact with the pavement when on the gas. • The harsh, unforgiving ride makes the bike hard to control when riding through dips and rolling bumps at speed. The suspension's reluctance to maintain tire traction through these sections erodes rider confidence. LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (FORK) • Front end dive while on the brakes becomes excessive. • The rear end of the motorcycle wants to "come around" when using the front brakes aggressively. • The front suspension "bottoms out" with a solid hit under heavy braking and after hitting bumps. • The front end has a mushy and semi-vague feeling--similar to lack of rebound damping. TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (FORK) • The ride is overly harsh, especially at the point when bumps and ripples are contacted by the front wheel. • Bumps and ripples are felt directly; the initial "hit" is routed through the chassis instantly, with big bumps bouncing the tire off the pavement. • The bike's ride height is effected negatively--the front end winds up riding too high in the corners. • Brake dive is reduced drastically, though the chassis is upset significantly by bumps encountered during braking. LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins to wallow and weave through bumpy corners. • This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tire starts to chatter due to a lack of wheel control. • There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action. TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • This creates an uneven ride. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the "feel" is vague. • Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension compliance). • The bike wants to run wide in corners since the rear end is "packing down"; this forces a nose-high chassis attitude, which slows down steering. • The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive corner entries. LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • There is too much rear end "squat" under acceleration; the bike wants to steer wide exiting corners (since the chassis is riding rear low/nose high). • Hitting bumps at speed causes the rear to bottom out, which upsets the chassis. • The chassis attitude is affected too much by large dips and G-outs. • Steering and control become difficult due to excessive suspension movement. TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK) • The ride is harsh, though not quite as bad as too much rebound; the faster you go, the worse it gets, however. • Harshness hurts rear tire traction over bumps, especially during deceleration. There's little rear end "squat" under acceleration. • Medium to large bumps are felt directly through the chassis; when hit at speed, the rear end kicks up.