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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2024 in all areas

  1. Well, the motorcycle show is here in Toronto this weekend. Debating on whether to go or not. Do I waste $20 on parking and $22 to get in. I always leave disappointed. But since I'm a gear head I need my fix of being around motorcycles. Last year with Kawasaki and other manufacturers missing the show was sad. I left the show thinking If i brought my storm trooper VFR and placed it on a stand it would have been one of the best looking bikes there. LOL. Motorcycling in Canada is a becoming a joke especially how many bikes we do not get here in Canada as opposed to Europe.
    1 point
  2. LEDs are such a cheap, easy and effective mod. Highly recommended. You only need 5 for the backlights in the cluster. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08229N2Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Did a test spot with the polisher. I first used a rubber wheel on a drill to remove this old decal, then lightly hit the area with 2000 grit wet sand, followed by an initial pass of Ultimate Compound on an orange pad. Turned out nice. Before polishing: After:
    1 point
  3. Hand-washing the inside of your fairings? Love the attention to detail! Lovely time reading through the initial post and will follow along. About the zipties, I just have a nice pair of side cutters and flush cut right to the housing. Always comes out damn near perfect with no stickout - never cut your hands again and it looks quite tidy!
    1 point
  4. Definitely repairable. The open track that is! You need to very carefully, with a sharp blade, scrap away a small section of the green protective coating to expose the copper of the track. Tin this section with solder then carefully solder a piece of tinned copper wire, (kind of like very small gauge fuse wire you would use in a house prior to the invention of domestic circuit breakers) to the copper track. The other end you want to fit through the eyelet and solder it to the eyelet as well at a convenient spot on the other side of the PCB. Early electronic PCB's used to be of wire wrap technology small gauge single strand wire insulated, wrapped around a connecting post. This type of wire would be ideal if you can get it. Suggest using the straight section of track just opposite and slightly below that CL262 point. And yes probably not best to disturb the solder at R393 however that spot could be used as a last resort. Check your repair with a meter making sure you have continuity from the leg of R393 right through to the eyelet and through to the destination point on the opposite side of the PCB. Be careful and good luck, hopefully that open circuit track might be the cause of your LEDs not working. If you're not confident with the repair. See if you can locate a good Electronics Technician with good soldering skills, he should be able to repair the track for you.
    1 point
  5. Thank you! A pretty big incentive to start this whole thing was the deal I found on the exhaust system. It was complete, even with an aftermarket connecting pipe and clamps, which I needed. Less than $100 shipped. I test fit everything before I restored the exhaust system. Muffler still has a great angle and I might be able to incorporate some springs, albeit mostly for looks. Stoked. Hopefully by this weekend.
    1 point
  6. So the bottom line is your starting issues were all caused by a bad battery. Is that correct? Or are you saying you have both battery and a starter relay fault? I'm confused.
    1 point
  7. Well I went to the show. I'm addicted to the drug they call motorcycles. It was sad once again. No new motorcycles except maybe Suzuki GSXS8r. Only positive bought a new REVIT summer riding jacket. Honda stand was sad. No new bikes except for CBR 650r eclutch. Poor Honda. Where is the Honda CB1000 hornet or Yamaha XSR 900GP? We get squat. Only positive , I own one of the best all around motorcycles ever made. Ride safe everyone riding season is getting close.
    1 point
  8. With Ignition on are your headlights glowing normally??? Ohms testing the relay coil is really only of benefit if checking for an open circuit coil. It's easy to functionally check the Relay. But yes you should see zero ohms across the main contacts when energized.
    1 point
  9. Hey Cogs - How's going? Thanks for the heads up on Custom Rewind. Great news! I did a 5th gen a couple years back with extended leads and its working great. I am running the Furukawa connnectors direct on the extended leads so there is no intermediate connection..... Also I have another on the bench to do. Gonna get that one done too to have on hand.
    1 point
  10. Wow, got my pillion cowl from sixdog today...its firkin Beautiful!
    1 point
  11. So I got a cheap set of collet blocks and a 12mm collet to produce the flats, it turned out pretty good for a drill press. A shot of flat black would be good
    1 point
  12. My local independent has a starter relay, on inspection the battery was down to 7v on starting. In was exchanged in 2011 so well past its functional date... I may wet sand the tank while at this point yet undecided.
    0 points
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