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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/2023 in all areas

  1. How about replacing the TPS harness? You'll have to unwrap the tape and de pin the three wires at the Grey 10P connector.
    1 point
  2. Hi Andy. Just incase you haven't found it, here's a link to the VFR800F and VFR800X Service Manual - This is Gold! 2014 VFR800F/2015 VFR800X Service Manual https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/271-2014-vfr800f2015-vfr800x-service-manual/
    1 point
  3. Hi guys and gals I have joined here because I am on the hunt for a VFR1200F I recently bought a Honda ST1100 with 140,000kms on it to ride to Ontario (5000kms) to sell to my cousin...I have never rode a V4 before and fell in love....so much so that I've decided to sell my 2022 Suzuki GSXS1000GT...I have had it just over a year and have put 32,000kms on it.... I have always thought the VFR1200F was an awesome bike. If anyone knows of one for sale in Canada, I would appreciate it... In my stable The 2022 GSXS1000GT+ 2020 DR650 2012 BMW K1300R Carbon Fibre SE 1983 Suzuki GS750e 1982 Suzuki GS1100e 1980 Suzuki GS1000S (Wes Cooley) 1980 Suzuki GS750e Yes, I like Suzuki's ....lol
    1 point
  4. So sad to hear about sfdownhill. I never met him but we had several conversations concerning Rapid Bike and the VFR headers. All my dealings with him were top notch. He will be missed
    1 point
  5. I didn't notice the suspension before - friction damping is ... exclusive 😎
    1 point
  6. RC51......... Did I hear anyone say VTR1000-SP2?
    1 point
  7. Well here's how the lowers went. I'm using this plastic repair kit and its molding blocks. A hot plate wasn't in the budget so an old halogen light warmed up the molding material enough. Both the lowers have been repaired and repainted in the past by PO's so I'm just doing a patch up and hopefully some prettifying. The Right Lower has relatively little damage and was used to make the molds for two spots for left side repairs. Left side sucked. I had a interference fit with my radiator savers I never saw before at the intake snorkel mounting screw and the just got compounded by my rectifier mount bolt. Top middle Duz receiver was all busted up along with the trailing lower screw hole. The cloth on the back there is some stuff I got 15 years ago its like a ABS impreginated cloth i got from a theatrical supply for some model ship building; you soak the stuff in Acitone and put it on your plastic and it hardens and becomes one with the plastic, I used it hereto just to add some support. I also used it to build the side cover arrowhead stand-off.
    1 point
  8. Well I got the bike! 2010 one owner bike. Huge list of stuff done to it. 20,000kms (12,000 miles) I decided to have it shipped to me instead of doing as fly and ride home...glad I did...as I had two tire valves fail in the first week. I have converted the clip ons to the LSL bar kit....much more comfortable for me His list
    1 point
  9. They are fundamentally sound but with a couple of potential weak spots that can cause issues but are reasonably cheap to resolve. The regulator/rectifier can fail and lead to either under or overcharging the battery. Some of this can be directly due to the 3-pin connector between the RR and alternator getting wet, corroding, forming high resistance, getting hot and then melting. Removing the connector and joining the wires with crimp splices or solder plus weatherproofing stops all that (but the RR can still fail). The thermostats fail (usually open) which is no big deal but painful to replace as it lives under the throttle bodies. The linked brakes work well but are unforgiving of maintenance, and the secondary master cylinder is exposed to road crud and can seize, causing a locked rear brake. Check your 30k bike has been regularly used; otherwise you can get rust on the fork stanchions and even rust inside the tank (which would definitely put me off).
    1 point
  10. I agree with Grum, that damage looks like just the polarizing film to me. The factory applied film is just stuck down with adhesive over the glass LCD screen, which I bet is fine under there. When I modified mine I was able to remove the film fairly easily, then cleaned the glass with glass cleaner/goo gone/etc., and then installed the new film at 90deg rotation. It seemed daunting at first (sensitive electronics don't agree wth my gorilla fingers and smash-all tendencies), but once I got going it was all pretty easy and straightforward. It doesn't look like I took any pics of the process, but here is the end result: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5pl76rhgm9vg5ux/dash.jpg?dl=0
    1 point
  11. Bad news on a couple of fronts. After this last production run, our fourth run actually, the pipe builder handed off the welding jigs to sfdownhill, essentially ending our production runs with him. Unfortunately he and I never got to discuss what we wanted to do with them. Here’s the really sad part, sfdownhill had a life ending accident this past week, he was was pronounced deceased a few days ago. Another unfortunate issue, I never got to meet the builder, I only knew him as Wade and sfdownhill did all the interfacing with him, including the only one of us to visit his shop, so I have no way of reaching him directly. I am still in shock about what happened, let alone still in the dark about what’s going to happen with all of his stuff, all his equipment, motorcycles and even those welding jigs. He and I had plans to build up another 5 Gen using a set of headers from this last run and I don’t even know where that bike is at the moment. In all honesty, that is not my priority right now, mourning the loss of my friend and hopefully meeting with his family soon is. Here is a link to my post announcing this tragic loss.
    0 points
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