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Hi
How does the normal cooling process work with this 1200F model2010?

After having RC36 and RC46 for 10+ years my new bike starts the fan much earlier.

Actually we have 15C outside and ridding alone on local roads and a bit highway (no city use or traffic jam) when driving for 3-10min in a village the fan would start, specially when I stop at a junction or at the gate when I got home.

This behaviour is the same if riding with my friend (+90kg)

My RC46 had side panels but could do more even in the summer. How will the big VFR12 works in hot days?

 

I got the bike right now from the Honda dealer shop after oil, filter and coolant change. I have driven it just 300km, has not to much experience with it.

The Tempr. bar display shows 2-3 marks bellow red when driving at least 80km/h. I shows 2 marks bellow when the fan starts.

This morning I checked the temperature of the coolant pie on the left side connecting to the water pump and also the radiator with a laser termometer.

I found in 2-3 minutes in warm up the pipe is already 60C and the right upper side of the radiator is also warming.

Is it normal?

I read in the service manual the thermostat should start to open to the radiator at 80C, not before.

But I know, an early thermostat should only expand the warming time but not to generate more heat.

 

Bit problem could be, the bike is stock but the radiator shows some wear/deformations on part of the lamella.

Worth the open them a bit with a thiny flat screw driver?

How to clean it in smooth way?

(I asked the shop, but they couldn't do too much)

 

How can I get access to check the coolant level in the reverse tank?

 

Thank you for your advices!

Peter

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Peter, I had exactly the same questions when I've got mine 10 months ago. Answer was 'she is a hot bitch'
As long as you got 2or3 bars its all good. I found riding anything below 80km/h despite the ambient temperature the fan is kick in all the time, thats it. Also discover that summer riding or anything above 22C is hell on 2 wheels. Not to mention your right foot. I've read guys melting their right boot. I'm in constant work in progress to improove the right foot heatshield.  In 30-35+ celsius its unrideable. Frame also get melting hot. No riding with shorts thats for sure even for a quicky..
The engine is running hot thats is how its made and its perfectly normal. I was worried my bike might be overheating but thats not the case. They all do that. I dont think even if you put brand new radiotor any improvments will happened.

As for the coolant tank its under this plastic cover /just pull it from the top/
123.JPG

 

If not sure, fill it the brim. Next time she run , she will puke the excesive off and you're good

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Interesting. 6 years and 20k miles and I've never experienced any of this with my 1200.

 

And yes, I know we don't get 30-35 deg here very often, but we do get it.

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Is it worth to check if the radiator cap is full ?
I have driven 250km after they changed the coolant.
I checked the reverse tank yesterday and it was toped up to max. and clean inside with that green Honda coolant.

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I can relate to the fan coming on all the time, but i'v never had issues with melted boots or trouble riding in 25-30 degerees, even at a track?
 Sounds like your bike is running completely as it should Redbike. You would know if you had an actual issue with your cooling system, as people said she is a hot bitch, it would very quickly overheat and probably shut itself off if your RAD was somehow malfunctioning. 

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Allen Millyard had a similar problem with heat, his solution is in this V10 Viper motorcycle, it’ll cool the radiate hear down to some extent 

 

 

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I checked the radiator is also warming up so early when the waterpump hoses are just 50C. When they get to 60C the radiator is full surface warm too. Its cap   corner is warming from 30C.

I read in the manual the thermostat should open from 80C, not earlier.

When looking the radiator I was not happy. Is it a must to replace?  Its middle and lower zones are the weakest.IMG_20211010_202926.thumb.jpg.3de4b1fec0409adc10358fbe9c987baa.jpg

IMG_20211011_115740.jpg

IMG_20211011_115730.jpg

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I admit it look rough but people install mesh guards that give the same effect, no?
Also if the thermostat is stuck open wouldnt that cause slow warm up time and running cooler causing the bike not to reach working temp /not good as well/ but not overheating as you're worried about.
I'll tell you how the temp gauge is acting on mine. If its above 20C or the speed is below 100kmh it always shows 3 bars.
With speeds arround 140-150 /easy on the throttle/ it drop to 2bars but only below 20C
I've read post on the fb fan page about overheating, one guy says that for 6 years and riding in 45C temps he never seen 4 bars. Pretty much means if you get 4 bars you have problem.

Also do you have the automatic or manual bike?
Radiators for both are different , the DCT bike seems to have bigger one , probably there is a reason behind .
New radiator is expensive. Specialy OEM one. Only found aftermarket for manual bike arround 300$ and DCT on ebay for 500

75442891_842932039457088_7758866713805848576_n.jpg

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Thank you for your comment.
My bike is manual.

 

This morning I checked the warm up process from 8C again and scanned some point on the bike with thermometer.
I found the the big black water hoses from the water pump are getting warm pretty parallel. Also the left upper corner of the radiator is warming too.

Around 60C the thermostat seems to open and the radiator gets hot, as well.

I read the thermostat should only open from 84C.

The fan is on times to time when cruising on the streets today in the city in 10C, as well.

 

I tried to straighten the lamelas, but cant work. 50% deformed. 20% destroyed.

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Rather than buy another radiator I’d get that one recored, cost should be under £250 depending on what you need done 

 

Either way I’d call this company and see what they say https://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/motorcycle/ …their work is pressure tested and warranted for 12 months 

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On 10/14/2021 at 8:53 AM, ggtod said:

I admit it look rough but people install mesh guards that give the same effect, no?
Also if the thermostat is stuck open wouldnt that cause slow warm up time and running cooler causing the bike not to reach working temp /not good as well/ but not overheating as you're worried about.
I'll tell you how the temp gauge is acting on mine. If its above 20C or the speed is below 100kmh it always shows 3 bars.
With speeds arround 140-150 /easy on the throttle/ it drop to 2bars but only below 20C
I've read post on the fb fan page about overheating, one guy says that for 6 years and riding in 45C temps he never seen 4 bars. Pretty much means if you get 4 bars you have problem.

Also do you have the automatic or manual bike?
Radiators for both are different , the DCT bike seems to have bigger one , probably there is a reason behind .
New radiator is expensive. Specialy OEM one. Only found aftermarket for manual bike arround 300$ and DCT on ebay for 500

75442891_842932039457088_7758866713805848576_n.jpg

Hi,

Thanks for the hints.
Could it be possible to install the DCT radiator on the manual bike?
I saw the inner lower cowl should be also replaced for the DCT variant, which has bigger window and also a protection net.

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The standard radiator for the manual bike is fine for the engine. I think you have answered your own question. 20% of your radiator is damaged and air cannot cool it. There will be a problem next summer.

I have ridden mine in 38 Degree heat, and it did not overheat. The fairing does deflect the worst of the heat away from your boots. I've ridden many Bikes far worse than this one in hot countries.

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