Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ggtod last won the day on September 5

ggtod had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
  • In My Garage:

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ggtod's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • One Month Later
  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Week One Done
  • Dedicated Rare

Recent Badges



  1. You guys are too nice. It wouldn't take me so long if I didn't have the illusion I could rebuild that engine. As it turn out is not quick and cheap as I imagine. New engine is running superb. No errors, no rattles, no leaks, no nothing. Even the clutch didn't need the learning procedure as I expected due to changed ECU<>Engine Pricewise … well I paid more than I wanted , but realistically the agreed 1200$ for complete engine is alright i think. first start:
  2. DRZ will need aftermarket seat and tank. I'll it leave for the next summer. I got that used engine almost there UK vs. Italy 10yo bike
  3. Naah thats alright. That guy from ebay is cool dude. He is running the show all by himself, busy man. He bought that engine (crashed bike) without noticing that the bottom half of the engine is hit by something with pieces missing, rust develop right there in this spot that eat its way into the crank. Ofc when I met him first it I've checked everything thoroughly right there it was covored with some black gunk that I manage to get it out only after I spend some good time polishing it. After all he offer me to get the crank fixed by some racing shop in Greece that are his friends and knew what they are doing. All for his expense. But I would not fall in that rabbit hole anymore of trying to fix engine that initial Honda design is made not to be fixable. He offer to trade me for some of his good bikes, looked for used engine in all of his resources. In the end its all my fault not checking it before buying it. For that used engine and its price.... Well, here we are kind a use to it. Fckers everywhere that enjoy giving you a good kick in the stomach while you are sick lay down. I could agree with their terms if I want to see the bike running again. Or like you said I could part it out , but lose a good portion of the money. Cuz I dont work like this guys. I made presents and sell everything super cheap for reasons exactly the oposite of the usual 2nd hand parts guys thinking. I've got bombarded with messages for parts from guys from our bulgarian 1200 fb fan page. There is one dude that crashed recently and is really stubborn to fix it all up, he offer me to buy half of mine to fix his bike. On other hand I have my eyes on different style bike that I've look for years and maybe I'll go that route. Or fix mine and add that super light Dr-z to the fleet and this time dont get bankrupted when the engine die for no reason. Really appreciate all the comments and suggestions it help me stay motivated
  4. I'm not sure if the short video of that used crank is visible, so here it is again Than crank is unusable. Thankfully I got full refund. Welding up the crank then cut back to size is no option anymore or at least for me. Nobody locally is promising good results witn that 10k rpm crank. Doing the nightmare to get the oil clearance spot on, pretty much getting all the 5 colors caps Only option is new crank + all the bearings = $$$$ or get that used enigne I've mentioned eirlier its 2 hours drive to get it. But! I've get super annoyed with this guys that are selling it. First time I've called they said 900$ for stript engine kinda pricey already for local standards . And when I called again to give me the location to pick it up, they pumped the price to 1500$ Thats summarize local behavior of this 2nd hand parts guys. I bought the hole thing with side cases + akra for 5500$ !!! There is no way of me paying that or not after I've read a guy in Poland paid 1000$ for one, or seeing old offers in Netherland and Italy (N/A anymore) for 1300$-1500$ complete engines with all the plugs sensors clutch covers etc. NOT just the bare minimum.
  5. I used to have the same problem with my ctx700 dct. Purchase the bike without working gears. It wouldnt go to D with check engine light+abs light on. After doing self diagnostic with the service manual it leads to fault in the PCM. Took the bike to Honda dealer so they can run their diagnostic tool and confirmed its the PCM fault. I've got tempted to get used PCM from US (100$) despite the different serial number and naturally it didnt work. Then finally got used Euro PCM + HISS + all locks and keys for 450Euro and gears worked first time with all warning lights off. The bike was 3yo with 9000km. I even called Honda Italy where the bike was originally purchased and they told me that they have replaced the PCM already at 5000km under waranty. So as it turns out not reliable peace of engineering. Doing self diagnostic with the SM can tell you if its the shift control motor, or any of the solenoids, side stand etc. Oh! Something else I've discovere is that I could still used the non-HISS ECU that I initially bought, what I've only needed to do is to feed 12V to the only empty pin on the plug I didnt notice it at first as they are a lot of wires like 50 or 60. That empty pin 'tells' the ECU that the HISS is 'okay to go' or this way you simply bypass it and wont have HISS anymore but hey its 6 times less expensive ECU. Troubles with that DCT module made me give up on auto boxes, but its such nice having auto, next bike I bought is a 1200D now with granaded engine. I'm also so close to give up on everything. I need to spend 1/3 of what I've paid for the bike to get used engine, probably only to get faulty PCM later. Its a fantastic bike, but seriously unreliable.
  6. Thank you for all the replies. But I’m back to square one. Bad news : the new/used crank is no good. Under the black gunk on one of the main there is surface damage and I’ll return it back to the seller. Dunno what will do next…. 1trim.A8E8A171-2E0C-466C-8FF8-2B664BE3FF31.MOV
  7. So I've got that used crank from the ebay link above. Its from crosstourer '15 but as per serial numbers they appear the same as '11 FD Plus I've got a deal on the complete set of conrods and their bearings, so placing them back eliminate troubleshooting what journal need what bearing so I'm half way done no questions there. I didnt get the new engine casing and its bearings , bottom half was missing and I could only see main bearing stamps and bearing colors. But now there is question with the main bearings, their size and colours its a mistery for me. I've tried to read some forums about translating engine case stamp+crank stamp + colors and I understood nothing 😬 How do you read the table from the service manual?? Can someone help translate/explain what is going on now? Check out what I have: table is from the SM , I dont know if the 2C stamp matter or do I only look on block stamp BAB (old) and AAB(new) I think on the middle main I can use my old bearing inserts- matching letter+color on the left I have same color but different letter On the right different color but matching letter Still to plastigauge all to be sure I'm in the oil clearance specs : 0,017- 0,035 mm but that simple table is driving me crazy I have all the details still cant figure it out
  8. Oil starvation on pot#4 is out of the question. Oil jounal that feed the bearing is in the middle of pot#1 and one main bearing that are in excellent condition. No crap that might block oil flow was found. Yepp. Thats the current plan. Machine shop send me to check for bearings that fit with 41.000 No such bearing exist, close it can get is 41.224 Machine guy says he didnt want to weld up the crank until we are sure there is no matching bearing somewhere. #1# Now I'll give the crank for weld up and then it will be cut back to standard 41.500 for a set of standard bearings. Or #2# get that used crank from ebay + set of standard bearings Or #3# if the price is right I'll buy that used engine that I've mentioned eirlier Maybe I'll go #3# first and have running bike within a week and then take my time to do #1# nice and easy winter project to have solid (if welded crank can be called solid) engine just sitting arround
  9. Yep. I admit it could be all my fault pushing 10yo bike with 50k km to the limit in 30+degrees. I can add to this that the bike seems kinda neglected. Or at least the state of the air filter says that. BUT! I expect nothing else from a Honda engine.Well not anymore tho. I drove 25yo civic flatout for 5 hours just time for an oil change and manage to drain 40ml, yes cup of coffee .It ran years after that. Or Ed March from utube who rode his supercup for 1500km+ with no oil pump. Or the carwow video where they run 9min on the limiter civic with no oil. etc etc. All Honda guys arround me were thats impossible. And I dont ride hard 95% of the time. I'll leave headscraching the oil choice for later. But you are right. Will be 10-30 or 40 Was hard on my previous bike for 3-4 year, it only eat some oil and never complain. I know that 650 V2 Suzuki engine is famous for its reliability was expecting the same for any honda engine. Yep, I know that Mario guy. I used to visit his used motorcycle showroom and his junkyard looking for a DCT module for my CTX700. He is a good guy willing to help, but his target is 'west' chaps and prices are eyewatering for my brokeass. Already called him if I can compare both cranks. In fact that machine shop is next door to him , I'm sure I could take it for a check with profesionals before purchase it. Its good option as well. This bike will either run again Or I will set it on fire 😄
  10. The oil I've put is Honda 10-30 . After all of this If I manage to put the bike together I will have a good thinking what oil to choose next. Maybe go again with 30 , or try 40 or even go some 'racing' 50s or 60s. dunno. I've visited a machine shop. And there are good and bad news. Good news are that its doable , crank can be cut and it will be fine. The rod is fine. The rest of the crank is excelent just need a polish .They will do the job quick and cheap. . The bad news is that for them to be sure they will get all of the crank marks out the size need to be dropped from 41.500 to 41.000 and they cannot assist with bearings. If I manage to find bearings that size they will do it and I'll be fine. Seing now the variants of bearing for that engine, the one that I need do not exist. They are roughly within 41.480 - 41.500 specs. Before even look at it the machine guy told me that the bearing for this go with .005 step and its bad news for me. So options are to visit every bearing shop arround and find one that fit /unlikely/ , check online for one /impossible/ , get a new crank+bearing /expensive/ or get a used engine... My crankshaft is stampted with C 2 . No index on the conrods(?) and my bearing color on all is RED(?). Dont know whats happen there I will plastigauge the good bearings to see what my tolerance are atm and if they are within the specs. So its probably what you say: defective bearing that finaly gave up p.s. YES PLEASE! I do have only the 'dark' version of the service manual only. I'll hit you with a PM if you can assist with better version. Machine guy has no explanation why the bearing fail. Oil starvation was out of the question. No existing swarf could cause that - oil journals there are massive and clean of any rubbish . He mention that due to extreme streess cap bolts might got lossen , but we rejected that after I've told him that I found no difference then the other when un do all of the bolts.
  11. Seeing the condition of the rest of the bearing (3 main and the rest of th 3 cyl 10/10condition) I can only explain to myself that it has oil starvation on the cyl.4 Maybe that was the 'swarf issue' on the early '10 '11 models And looking on the lybrication diagram , the only possible place that can cause oil starvation is here. Cannot explain how oil journals in the crank can clogged up right there. Still to investigate Yes! All the rest looks like its a brand new. I could now say this is a 200k+km engine no doubt except for that cyl4 rod bearing not having enough oil... There are planty of engine machine shops arround, lets hope I find one willing to deal with my case. Thank you for the support again. Really need that atm.
  12. When talking Honda I expect to be 2031 or even 2041 and engine running like new! I have and seen many examples why you can run them troublefree. I didnt expect engine with oil to die , I kinda expect them to run with no oil for ages, they just set the bar high. Now it feel like its a M5 V10 where it eats its bearing for no reason. For the 2nd part, where the blokes from Uk or US or Belgium Switzerland etc ride their bike hard?? No really, where?? for 15min on a track day? Cuz except the autobahn I dont see where guys ride or drive hard. Been in west europe - u go to jail if go 3km over the limit get shot on the spot for 5+ Crank is out. Seeing it only need 1 pair of rod bearings for cyl 4 and some resurface job on the crank spirits are high! Afer all this are the best news I could get. Nothing is broken/blown. Seizing caused by blown rod bearings climing on each other. There are some 'fingernail feel' on the rod and crank that need to be touch-up by a machine shop, and a pair of new bearings for the new size. Good cleaning , some gaskets and oil and she will be fine. It seems that I overreacted with granaded thing. I dont want to do the hole bottom end , the rest looks spot on conditione wise. Cylinder walls in excelent condition , no marks anywhere else. Even the heads/valves look like zero oil burning was happened. I'll leave crankshaft with the rod at a machine shop specialist and will deal with blowing all the oil passages to be ready for assembly.
  13. I expect if oil pump starve for oil to get oil warning light ON. I just saw it blink once or twice and that was it. I will lurk for engine locally, after seing this in the pan before any money involved I need to drop the oil pan of the donor and see whats in it. Luckilly there is one 2 hours away, but at this moment I'm affraid they will shock me with their price I'll get pissed off , will pile everything and set it on fire! And first want to see whats damage inside mine, maybe I'm lucky will see (if calling engine failure luck) Local Honda dealer is a joke. They have to install me brand new engine for free while giving me a sub ride to turn over my opinion. No point even ringing them. Yet to get to the crank to see what failed. Really hope its just a rod bearing and only cosmetic marks on crang+rod. Want to save my block as engine number is required here , changing it cause add problems. Funny... I've rode Suzuki for 3 years with nothing in mind for bike lift. 6 months ago buying Honda something in the back of my mind told me to look and get a used bike lift to service it easily.. only if I knew. I work in a cubical, doing mechanic stuff is only a hobby but enough tools for this kinda task. If I can turn dead Civic from this to that incl engine rebuild I will be fine, just didn't need that when I'm broke and in the begining of the summer. Only if I knew about soo many examples before I've made the purchase. In one of the fb group it opened a discussion about using the right oil for my needs. I know I know, talking oil is like talking tyres. Everyone have an opinion. I ran Honda geniune 10-30 oil that says in the book, and Honda dealer sold me that. Now reading that maybe if I've put some 50s or 60s oil would be different. I don't believe Honda will not calculate pushing it to red rpms for hours and give you 10-30oil. Or maybe they are just crap engines badly made. Finaly engine gave up and dropped. Spend last 2 days for 2 bolts and getto engine stand...
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.