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exwifeschewtoy

linked brake system bleed instructions

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VFR is a linked braking system. So how does one flush the line between the front left wheel master cylinder and the rear brake? The manual assumes that I have a pump and I don't. I am going to have to do it via tubing and drain bottle and make sure there is pressure on the handle/foot pump before I crack the valve and  before I tighten the valve.  It seems like if I do it this way that I will have to have help from someone to watch the reservoirs. 

 

#2 What size tubing fits the nipples? pleases specify ID vs OD so I get the right one. 

 

as a side note I stopped by Honda and my 2005 Honda VFR has not had the wiring harness recall done. I had checked my vin online and it had said that there were no open recalls on my vin, so double checking is important. 

 

thanks

Joel

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Never mind.....I see the detailed instructions.....I am just going to cave in a buy a bleed pump........

 

1. Now got any links to a good hand pump operated bleeder so I just don't go and buy any old one off of Amazon that breaks the first time I use it?

thanks

Joel

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You don't really need a pump for this.

I tried using one, but ended up doing it the old way - Pump, hold, release...

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13 minutes ago, Rice said:

You don't really need a pump for this.

I tried using one, but ended up doing it the old way - Pump, hold, release...

So there is a valve under the seat near the battery?  Is the servo proportional control valve just a fancy word for the rear brake reservoir under the seat? or is it a seperate access point? I see that It is an access point to flush forward to the left front caliper as well as backwards to the rear brake center piston. 

I guess I am going to have to be at the bike to visualize what the process is because I can't picture it in my head looking at the manual. I know what the manual wants me to do but Just don't know how to get there. 

 

oh and what size tubing? please let me know inner or outer diameter. 

thanks

Joel

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it is an extra bleeding point - not reservoir

.

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I was thinking about getting a 150cc syringe and putting tubing on it with a c clamp and the other end on the bleeder valve and going the reverse direction with it.....Other posts say reversing the direction is nice because it helps the air bubbles travel upwards towards the reservoir. 

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Reverse bleeding may work very well...if you can get the bleed screws to seal so you don't just leak fluid

around the threads. I've had no luck using a MityVac to pressure/vacuum bleed a system. The bleed screws

just don't seal well enough. That was one of the main reasons I replaced all the bleed screws with the Speed

Bleeders. Which of course won't help with a reverse bleeding operation.

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57 minutes ago, FJ12Ryder said:

Reverse bleeding may work very well...if you can get the bleed screws to seal so you don't just leak fluid

around the threads. I've had no luck using a MityVac to pressure/vacuum bleed a system. The bleed screws

just don't seal well enough. That was one of the main reasons I replaced all the bleed screws with the Speed

Bleeders. Which of course won't help with a reverse bleeding operation.

what about lightly snugging up a c clamp over the nipple.....not to damage it but just enough to create a seal?

 

also, after a quick look there is only one nipple under the seat correct?

so if I attached a hose to that nipple can I push fluid both directions depending on which front or rear bleeder valve I open. Or would that fluide just migrate into the rear brake reservoir.............

I guess my question is how to use my syringe to force that line with clean fluid?

 

sorry if my question isn't clear but I think you know what I am trying to accomplish. 

 

Joel

 

I am quite impressed with how easy it is to work on this bike. Despite a few head scratches here and there. I have been able to do everything so far with your guys help and have not spent even a dime having someone else wrench on my bike. After all I am a nurse not a mechanic!

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I found these directions in a Honda cbr forum with interlinked brakes.

 

I have adhered to the bleeding sequence

Front right caliper upper bleed screw, front hand brake lever/master cyl
Front left caliper upper bleed screw, front hand brake lever/master cyl
Front right caliper lower bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Front left caliper lower bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Rear caliper rearmost bleed screw, rear foot brake lever/master cyl
Rear caliper foremost bleed screw, secondary master cyl fork leg & rear footbrake reservoir

 

Is this the correct sequence?

Joel

 

what is the secondary master cylinder? the one under the seat?

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1 hour ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

what is the secondary master cylinder? the one under the seat?

   
It's not under your seat! REFER to page 15-11 of your Service Manual. It is located on your left Caliper front wheel. When front brake is applied rotation force activates the Second Master Cylinder to pressurise the centre piston of your rear brake Caliper.

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I read the manual over and over again and feel as though I have a handle on how to do it. I will wrap the threads with nylon tape to get a better seal to aid in air leak prevention. I am going to reverse bleed a few of the bleeder points when I can as it will help air travel with the fluid to the reservoirs. I plan on doing this with a large 100cc syringe with a hose c-clamped or zip tied to the tip. I find the forum to be better than the manual........damn owner's manual said 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oil was fine for my climate, for instance. Blew 30 bucks getting the right oil in it alone.  I am not going to do this until I can get my uncles help as I don't want to be stretched out like I am trying to play twister with these bleed points. 

thanks

Joel

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19 hours ago, FJ12Ryder said:

Reverse bleeding may work very well...if you can get the bleed screws to seal so you don't just leak fluid

around the threads. I've had no luck using a MityVac to pressure/vacuum bleed a system. The bleed screws

just don't seal well enough. That was one of the main reasons I replaced all the bleed screws with the Speed

Bleeders. Which of course won't help with a reverse bleeding operation.

I did read on CBR forum, which also uses a linked brake system, that the real difference with the mityVac was wrapping the threads with teflon before putting the hose on....I guess they can be pulling air and you don't even realize it and you chase a spongy pedal for hours trying to figure out why you can't get all the air out. Just something I read is all. May try it again if you still have it and see if it makes it worth using. 

 

Joel

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The main problem with using teflon tape is the likelihood of getting small bits of the cut tape into the brake line/fluid. I mean

it will work, I've tried it, but it is such a huge PIA to try and carefully wrap all those bleed screw threads. Easier to just use the

squeeze and bleed method, for me anyway.

 

I did all mine that way when I installed the Galfer lines on my '99, and it really wasn't too bad.

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I had such trouble with mine I just paid Honda in my area to do it while getting the front wiring harness recall done.

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After cleaning all three master cylinders and pistons in calipers. New seals in calipers. And a lot of bleeding. All air seems to be out, but when I press back break and release, the back breaks still holds. Only release when I open proportional bleed nipple. Any ideas what is wrong, and what to try next. Thanks for any tips, ideas or guidance.

 

Trygve in Lismore, Australia. 

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1 hour ago, Trygve said:

After cleaning all three master cylinders and pistons in calipers. New seals in calipers. And a lot of bleeding. All air seems to be out, but when I press back break and release, the back breaks still holds. Only release when I open proportional bleed nipple. Any ideas what is wrong, and what to try next. Thanks for any tips, ideas or guidance.

 

Trygve in Lismore, Australia. 

If you're sure you've assembled the Secondary Master Cylinder correctly, then you may have a faulty PCV, be worth replacing. 

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I was thinking the same, but then I found a more detailed write up on how to bleed the brakes. Especially in regards to how to get fluid into the proportional system. So now I'm not sure if I should try that way or if I should check out the proportional valve anyhow first, as it may need a good clean, if nothing else. Calipers and master cylinders needed cleaning, so? Any thoughts. And I can't see the pictures.

 

Ta for reply, Trygve

6th gen 2002 non abs, I forgot to mention.

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On 5/18/2018 at 6:48 AM, Trygve said:

After cleaning all three master cylinders and pistons in calipers. New seals in calipers. And a lot of bleeding. All air seems to be out, but when I press back break and release, the back breaks still holds. Only release when I open proportional bleed nipple. Any ideas what is wrong, and what to try next. Thanks for any tips, ideas or guidance.

 

Trygve in Lismore, Australia. 

I had the same problem, bleeding in right order according to the vfr-manual was the solution for me - hope that helps

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