Auspanglish Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Nobody's head is in the sand. Considering I own an VFR1200 I suspect I am more familiar with the bike than non-owners in general and, like most people, including the OP, did a lot of research before buying. I know of a few driveshaft/u-joint failures amongst F and CT owners and two engine failures both of which were possibly related to the engine swarf recall on some Euro bikes made in 2010. I am not blind to reported problems. I have never heard of a final drive proper failure. Yes, the FD could be considered everything from the/including gearbox back but, most in the motorcycle world, especially BMW owners which had a history of real FD failures, would distinguish between the drive shaft and the FD and that was the point of my post. Understood. Thanks for clarifying. Actually I believe I've heard of a case in Spain, but yes, statistically it would appear that few have actually reached the point of failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swimmer Posted August 17, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2016 OP, in case you haven't found the thread, a member here has over 150k miles on his VFR1200 with no engine problems. He's in Korea. No reason any of us can't expect the same.He also had a u-joint failure a few years ago before Honda was aware of the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilprofessore Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 The big VFR is rock solid, more than Vtec, for example. The main problems up to now are: - Drive shaft (UJ), now solved with full replacement by Honda - Preload adjuster can stick, but complete rear shock absorber is garbage - Brake, front caliper pistons can stick if used in heavy conditions (rain, salt, mud etc or leave outside for long time) - Brake, front disk warpage (it happen only to me, after 68k miles) In Italy, for a VFR with 70k miles, the asked price is 7000 USD (6200 Euro). it is also the cheapest VFR you can find in one of the most famous (in Italy) sale announcement web site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer paulmeisterpk Posted August 17, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2016 Good to hear guys. I remember hearing something about the remote preload adjuster sticking. Is there any way to free that up, or does it come down to a complete shock replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeefour Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 8 hours ago, paulmeisterpk said: Good to hear guys. I remember hearing something about the remote preload adjuster sticking. Is there any way to free that up, or does it come down to a complete shock replacement? I swapped mine to Ohlins last year. Just for fun took the OEM one apart. Mine was working for 5 years, adjuster just went hard but never rock solid. What I found is that the SLEEVE cylinder gets seized, not MASTER. Master was rotating freely after releasing the pressure. Cleaned everything up, bought new seals, refiled the adjuster with fork oil and works like new. I reckon that every suspension shop can refurbish that shock - no biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 You can free it up. Work the black plastic knob off by tapping it around the inside edge from the other side of the bike (long utensil needed) and grease the mechanism up good, first with penetrating oil if siezed and once unsiezed, with axle or bearing grease. Better off giving it a preventative greasing if it hasn't seized yet. Careful with small ball bearing and spring which are there as part of the "clicking" mechanism which marks each position (harder or softer). Once the black knob is off the preload mechanism can be turned with a ratchet and socket to free it up and work the lube in. If it weren't such an eyesore I'd leave it like that. It really was poorly designed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swimmer Posted August 17, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2016 2 hours ago, paulmeisterpk said: Good to hear guys. I remember hearing something about the remote preload adjuster sticking. Is there any way to free that up, or does it come down to a complete shock replacement? Seemed to happen more to guys who rode a lot in the rain. I think for preventative maintenance just make a point to turn the knob back and forth occasionally if you aren't otherwise needing to. I also switched to Ohlins though I never had an issue with the OEM adjuster. Of course my bike is a little less than two years old with just over 30k miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeefour Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 1 hour ago, Auspanglish said: You can free it up. Work the black plastic knob off by tapping it around the inside edge from the other side of the bike (long utensil needed) and grease it up good, first with penetrating oil if siezed and once unsiezed, with axle or bearing grease. Better off giving it a preventative greasing if it hasn't seized yet. Careful with small ball bearing and spring which are there as part of the "clicking" mechanism which marks each position (harder or softer). Once the black knob is off the preload can be turned with a ratchet and socket to free it up and work the lube in. If it weren't such an eyesore I'd leave it like that. It really was poorly designed. Enviado desde mi m2 note mediante Tapatalk Why would you lube the knob while it's not the thing that gets seized? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Not the knob. The mechanism left exposed on removing the knob... The knob is nothing more than a large plastic cover (supposed) to make turning the mechanism easier with a human hand. Lubing the knob obviously serves no purpose. It becomes obvious what requires lubing once the knob has been removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeefour Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 You mentioned the knob. I took mine rear shock apart, completely. Once more - the knob and the master cylinder, on which that knob is mounted has nothing to do with adjuster problems. The SLEEVE cylinder is getting seized - that big cylindrical thing mounted on a shock - you need to remove the shock itself to gain access to this part. The SLEEVE cylinder is what's getting seized - not the MASER cylinder(the knob thingy). Lubricating ANY part from pre-load MASTER cylinder is pointless as everything always spins freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer paulmeisterpk Posted August 17, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 17, 2016 Alright. I think I'm going to try to head over to the dealer tomorrow after work and check this thing out. I'll make sure the preload knob spins freely or use it as a bargaining point for some $ off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crakerjac Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 I didn't realize you were a cheese head... what part of Wiscony are you from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer paulmeisterpk Posted August 18, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 18, 2016 I grew up just north of the Dells, but now live in the Madison area. I usually end up riding in the southwest corner of Wisconsin though. A lot of great roads over there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer paulmeisterpk Posted August 19, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 19, 2016 Thanks everyone for the responses. I stopped by the dealer last night and took the bike off of their hands. So far my first impressions are: - Seat is very slippery and not really too comfortable. - The helibars on it are really nice. - Could use a touch more legroom - Compared to my '98 VFR, the exhaust note is not as appealing. - The fit and finish seems excellent. - My feet were getting quite warm, but the bike did a good job of keeping the heat away from the rest of my body. - Seems very nimble. The only time I notice the weight is when I push it around the garage myself. - Doesn't seem as powerful as I was expecting. I am assuming the ECU has not been reflashed by Guhl, and that 1st and 2nd gear are still neutered. I will see how it treats me for the next 50,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swimmer Posted August 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 19, 2016 1 hour ago, paulmeisterpk said: Thanks everyone for the responses. I stopped by the dealer last night and took the bike off of their hands. So far my first impressions are: - Seat is very slippery and not really too comfortable. - The helibars on it are really nice. - Could use a touch more legroom - Compared to my '98 VFR, the exhaust note is not as appealing. - The fit and finish seems excellent. - My feet were getting quite warm, but the bike did a good job of keeping the heat away from the rest of my body. - Seems very nimble. The only time I notice the weight is when I push it around the garage myself. - Doesn't seem as powerful as I was expecting. I am assuming the ECU has not been reflashed by Guhl, and that 1st and 2nd gear are still neutered. I will see how it treats me for the next 50,000 miles. Nice. FYI the seat was changed after 2010 and is not as slippery. As far as heat management goes the bike is excellent IMO at least compared to other bikes I've owned and I ride in very high temps (up to 115F) routinely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer paulmeisterpk Posted August 21, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2016 The seat seems too narrow for me. How do I tell if I have the low/narrow or the regular seat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer swimmer Posted August 21, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2016 Try going to the Honda website and if the VFR1200 is still up (2013MY) there was a link showing available accessories. If they show the low seat you could try matching or not matching the part numbers. Also just searching ebay or around google you should be able to stumble across the low seat part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Yokel Posted August 21, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2016 On 8/19/2016 at 8:28 AM, paulmeisterpk said: Thanks everyone for the responses. I stopped by the dealer last night and took the bike off of their hands. So far my first impressions are: - Seat is very slippery and not really too comfortable. - The helibars on it are really nice. - Could use a touch more legroom - Compared to my '98 VFR, the exhaust note is not as appealing. - The fit and finish seems excellent. - My feet were getting quite warm, but the bike did a good job of keeping the heat away from the rest of my body. - Seems very nimble. The only time I notice the weight is when I push it around the garage myself. - Doesn't seem as powerful as I was expecting. I am assuming the ECU has not been reflashed by Guhl, and that 1st and 2nd gear are still neutered. I will see how it treats me for the next 50,000 miles. Paul, Congrats on the buy. Heck of a deal. I did the 1st/2nd gear fix years ago and haven't looked back. It sounds like you're doing your due-diligence in research, so there shouldn't be any surprises for you. The engine power was never maniacal to me, just consistent thrust that gets you moving pretty quick. It's awfully smooth, even when you're wringing it's neck. Hope you find some good information on this forum, and that you get many years enjoyment out of your new bike. A few things I've noticed on mine after 5 years: 1) The vent tube for the fuel tank and battery etc... exits near the kickstand. Check to make sure they aren't roasted by the catalytic converter. 2) Engine coolant level. I've noticed mine fluctuates. 3) DAM exhaust was money well spent, as was disconnecting the exhaust flapper servo if you have the factory exhaust. The factory system also weighs about 30lbs. It's ridiculous. This in conjunction with the 1st/2nd gear hotwire seems to have smoothed out throttle response. 4) I have used the factory seat since new. Personally (and every ass is different) I didn't mind it. The vinyl is failing on mine, and I'm getting a new cover and some tweaks on mine Tuesday. Looking forward to how that comes out. Many have used Corbin or Seth Laam. I'm going to a dude named Steve here in Colorado. I've put some of his stuff up in a recent post I made on my 5-year refresh in the 7th gen forum. PM me if you want details. 5) Suspension components need an upgrade for me too, at 25k miles. But, I'm a big fat guy. YMMV. Enjoy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 On 8/17/2016 at 8:43 AM, paulmeisterpk said: Good to hear guys. I remember hearing something about the remote preload adjuster sticking. Is there any way to free that up, or does it come down to a complete shock replacement? DMr rear shock upgrade addresses the preload issue http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/vfr1200.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 VFR1200F accessories from Partzilla http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2010/VFR1200F+AC/Accessories/parts.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 low narrow seat...in stock http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-08R50-MGE-100D.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer paulmeisterpk Posted August 22, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 22, 2016 18 hours ago, Auspanglish said: I can't seem to tell which one I have by just looking at, so I took a picture of the numbers on the bottom side of the seat, but they don't seem to correspond to any part #s. Are the seat bases different between the standard and the low/narrow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Post a photo of the seat right side up... Original regular height seat part numbers are/were:77200-MGE-023Superseded part number(s) 77200-MGE-00377200-MGE-013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Regular normal OEM seat: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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