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Omg Fork Oil After One Year


maxredline

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Before last riding season I rebuilt the forks. New seals and bushings with fresh oil, I didnt change the springs.

I did not ride much, maybe 1500 kms as most as I was busy with other things.

I was not really satisfied with the results so I bought the kit from Daughterty which I am in the midst of installing now.

I was floored with the color of the fork oil after the season...OMG

post-2268-0-72296600-1454829389.jpg

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I had oil worse than that after the first month(or at 5,000 miles) , all of my other changes greater than 35,000 miles have been good looking.

But you made the first change out and this oil still looks bad, how could that be?

Id say the black is coming from new bushings in combo with too little fork oil height , the vfr forks are just not adequate for anything aggressive, excessive fork movement in combo with new bushings, put a lot of black in your oil, imo.

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I put new Gold Valves and piston seals into very clean forks, and the oil was black in 1000km, just from the new parts bedding in. I would not worry at all.

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Just about to change the oil in my forks, don't know if it's ever been done before,going to be interesting to see what comes out after 16 years maybe, using motul 10 wt,

is it ok to just dump the oil out wthout a full strip down/new seals etc?

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Just about to change the oil in my forks, don't know if it's ever been done before,going to be interesting to see what comes out after 16 years maybe, using motul 10 wt,

is it ok to just dump the oil out wthout a full strip down/new seals etc?

You can't flush out all the "dirty" oil. That means you are leaving contaminants in the system, thus negating the benefit of the new oil.

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Thanks, I think it would be bound to be an improvement though, what is best to use to flush them out? I'd imagine if they were flushed out with something and left upside down to dry out for a day it might save doing a full tear down.

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After 16 years, I would probably pull the fork legs to get a look at the bushings. Also, new fork seals aren't expensive compared to the pain of a leaky fork leg on the road.

When I disassemble fully, I "flush" with carb cleaner or gasoline. With the damper removed, the only part that would be difficult to flush is anything trapped between the uppers and lowers. You could just fill, ride for a month, then change again if you are concerned. I don't know the mileage or maintenance history of your particular bike, but I would fully disassemble if it was mine.

If you don't have a seal driver, you could swing by any shop and have them replace the seals for you. Our fork diameter is pretty common.

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I use a piece of PVC pipe to drive seals, long enough to fit from the top of the compressed fork leg to the seal. Put the old seal on top of the new one when driving so you don't damage the new seal.

In my experience, you do get a build up of crud at the very bottom of the leg, so carb cleaner or similar is a good option. Don't neglect the cartridge though as that also has some nasty looking fluid trapped in it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I had thought about drilling a tapping a fork oil drains on the fork legs but have decided agains it as some have pointed out you really need to clean the internals.

The PVC seating tool I used is a common 1- 1/2 inch pipe coupling with the inner stopper ridge filed down smooth.

post-2268-0-08977100-1456858116.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
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The air gap should be measured with the cartridges fully primed with oil (lots of pumping up and down until you have smooth resistance both directions over the full stroke), then pump the stanchion up and down to drive any air out, and finally push the stanchions fully in (past the bottoming cone resistance). Now set the oil height to the top of the fork tube (spring out). Standard oil height is 130mm, I use 120mm.

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