Auspanglish Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 On the relays themselves it indicates "12V NO" (normally open)... and I have checked with multimeter and there IS continuity when they are energized... so the headlight circuit is closed (connected) with the ignition ON. My lo beams don't work. My hi beams do. If I swap the relays over it's ídem, ditto, the same; hi beams work, lo beams don't. The lo beam's relay does close the circuit when energized (key to ON). There is continuity to ground for the Green earth wire from the plug at the bulb (via the big blue connector; I have futureproofed the green wire running through this connector with a bridging wire or bypass, together with running a reinforcing wire to an alternative grounding point on the chassis). 12 Volts are supplied to the lo beam relay when ignition is ON, as checked via multimeter. Will continue checking for continuity where it should be... etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Thing is, unless I'm reading it wrong, the manual is describing the relays as NC ( normally closed), when it's clearly printed on the relays "NO" (normally open). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Also I'm wondering if the revamped '06-onward front subharness runs 2 final ground wires out of the (faulty) bus connector: one through the blue connector and the other through the grey connector. I did eliminate this bus connector and bulk soldered the lot together in two sets, but can't recall the aforementioned detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dawson Posted January 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2016 The manual describes relays strangely in a couple of spots, PAIR being an example of poor wording. That first sentence fits the physical connexion if you add a semi-colon. "There should be no continuity; only when the 12V battery is connected" The second sentence contradicts this though. Electrically, it makes more sense to have things on the normally open contacts so they come on when the circuit is energised. The wiring diagram shows both relays as being normally open, for what that's worth. It looks like the high beams get their power from the low beam circuit, that may help narrow things down. There's a connector after the point they split, could be worth looking at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Thanks Dawson... Yes the wording often leaves a lot to be desired: "If continuity is exist..." Will hunt down that connector you mention today. Thing is, the twelve volts are reaching the lo beam relay... So I'm thinking the problem must be downstream from there... I did check continuity from the plug at the bulb to ground... But I haven't checked continuity from the relay to the plug at the bulb and another section as it got dark on me and I do this outside (bike sleeps in a very poorly lit communal garage). Wish me luck. Will report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dawson Posted January 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2016 Did you have 12 V in both locations on the relay (Blue/White wire and Black/Red wire)? It'll need both of those to switch the lamps on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2016 It work before right ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2016 Drawing wrong look at several other Honda's headlight drawing and they show relay is NO operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Yes. These are definitely NO. They are marked NO as per the previous photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I think it just means, you are wrong NO matter what! Glad to help as always! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 You might think they would have these manuals at least checked by someone with English as their first language. Preferably someone literate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 I think it just means, you are wrong NO matter what! Glad to help as always! Thanks Bails!!You know if I owed you a beer for every time you've been helpful, just think, at least you were saved a hangover!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Did you have 12 V in both locations on the relay (Blue/White wire and Black/Red wire)? It'll need both of those to switch the lamps on.Finger on the pulse Dawson!!!Thank you so very much. Your tip has lead to the culprit getting hunted down. Not without a little flirt with chaos when spontaneously lights were back on, which had me on a wild goose chase. Finally lights out again and no, no 12V at the bl/r wire. The relay works fine opening and closing the secondary circuit when the ignition is turned off and on respectively (based on continuity: multimeter beeps). Then I saw a little puff of smoke, smelt a little electrical connector BBQ... Followed my nose... and heading upstream I find the bl/r wire passes through the infamous big blue connector... and there's 12V upstream on the battery side but none downstream on the relay side. Bingo!! 4th terminal from the top on the right: So the blue connector gets its SECOND BYPASS!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dawson Posted January 20, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 20, 2016 Nice find! It was very obliging of it to fail conclusively too, intermittent faults suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Yes, well, the day it decided to go south it WAS intermittent for about half an hour... conveniently at dusk... or at least that's when I noticed it (hard to notice when the light from the headlights is "lost" to our eyesight in the bright sunlight), so perhaps it had been going on all day. Then they decided to die altogether when it was completely dark, in the apex of a sharp, fast, left hander... with a large drop off the edge of the mountain a few feet to the right of the asphalt... As they say in Spain: my balls became a bowtie. MegaPucker moment. I have cleaned up the male and female terminals, scraping off scaley build up and tightened up the female one. Generous squirts of contact cleaner and finally light squirt of WD40. Reassembled and... Let there be light!!! Wonder how long it'll hold. Tapping and jiggling the connector does not see the lights even blink. Thanks again Dawson!! I owe you a beer or three... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dawson Posted January 21, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 21, 2016 Might take you up on it if I get back to Europe someday. ☺ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 I need to look at this same thing...had a battery failure and the headlights (low beam) stopped working. I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet. Thanks for the suggestion on a place to look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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