Jump to content

Harsh Ride - 2002 Vtec


REDDOG

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

~95,000 miles on the bike. Changed fork seals two years ago and then loaned the bike to my son for a year. Got it back, took a short ride and it felt really harsh on rough roads. Thought with the mileage the rear shock could be toast so I did the DMr F4i conversion, then loaned it out for another year before I got any real seat time on it.

Its back now and I am really hating the ride, feels like it’s trying to buck me off on larger bumps and I really feel the expansion cracks. I have been on my FZ1 since loaning the VFR, and the FZ1 does have an almost upright riding position with very little pressure on the arms. The VFR puts a lot more pressure on the arms, so maybe I need to re-adapt with more stomach muscle. But even testing more upright positions the VFR feels bad.

When I hold the brake and push on the FZ1 it feels smooth and linear. It takes twice as much pressure on the VFR to compress the forks a similar distance (as the FZ1) and the VFR gets even harder as it compresses further down.

I checked the oil (Honda SS8) and it was at around 100mm. I set it down to 130mm from the top (per a DMr recommendation I saw on the forum). The lower oil level seemed to help somewhat, but it’s still a harsh ride. Front pre-load is about 3/4 out. Rear shock set to full soft. I can’t adjust rear pre-load but did order it for my weight (185).

I checked the manual again and I have the spring installed with the “tight” winding in the shock and the uniform winding at the top.

I am hating the bike right now I don’t suspect I put 89,000 miles on it feeling like it does now.

Thoughts?

Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Curious, are the forks also DMr modified? and why can't you adjust the rear shock preload?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Curious, are the forks also DMr modified? and why can't you adjust the rear shock preload?

Forks are stock. Unless I am missing something, the pre-load can't be adjusted. When you order the shock from DMr you give him your weight and he installs the proper spring for the correct sag. There is just a spacer above the spring, not an adjuster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I could be wrong, but I thought the pre-load adjustment collar is at the bottom of the shock. Might be a question for JD.

vtr_f4_1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Ok, you are right, I have an adjuster at the bottom! I was looking at the top like the old VFR shock. Been awhile since I installed it, and like I said I have not rode the bike for a year.

I can start playing with the pre-load.

Here is the top, just FYI.

gallery_693_106_606679.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Hey guys, a couple of quick points:

1) First and foremost, the spring preload does not alter the way the motorcycle feels. It only adjusts the height of the rear.

2) The spring preload adjustment is located at the bottom of the shock/spring.

3) Reddog, the SS8 fluid is too heavy for the forks. Do not use any of the SS fluids, those are not very good. I would suggest Honda Pro Oils 5w, Spectro 85/150, Motul Factory Line 5w, or Klotz 5w. All are excellent and will help with the front. It won't fix the inherent problems with the springs/valving though.

Please drop me an email if you need anything else!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Hey guys, a couple of quick points:

1) First and foremost, the spring preload does not alter the way the motorcycle feels. It only adjusts the height of the rear.

Understood. I was just asking why he felt he couldn't adjust his preload. As far as I am aware, all modern motorcycle shocks have at least preload adjustment on them, so I thought it was strange that he said he couldn't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi REDDOG,

Have you had your steering head bearings replaced recently? I am having the same problem on my 2002 VFR and I have 54000 miles.

My ride is hard over rough surfaces and makes clunking sound every time I go over a bump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thanks guys. Jamie sent me info on setting up the rear, which I will start testing. Trying the lighter oil is really easy, so that's next as well. The forks are stock, but I throughly cleaned the internals when I did the seals.

I will post up what I find.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Well I think I am onto one major problem, I am a dum### when it comes to suspension. When I read BR's 30 minute fork oil change he said to lift the front wheel off the ground, which fully extends the fork tube. So I measured the 100mm with it fully extended. No mention in the manual either of extended or compressed. So I am doing it all over again today (with the forks out), adding away, and WTF, I am already putting in more than the 18 or so ounces per the manual and its not even close to the mm down from top. Go back and dig through the quick change post and find a few pages down it says measure top down with the fork tube fully compressed. Gah !

Just imagine how much oil was in there measuring with the tube extended, no wonder it was trying to throw me off the bike.

Can't even remember how I did it the first time two years ago when I changed the seals (that was the first time I did any fork work), I thought I did it by volume so it should have been close, but not totally sure.

I am expecting dramatic results now when I get done! Hard to admit, but if it helps the next first timer it will be worth the embarrassment.

From a 2011 forum post- "That is the level of the fluid measured from the top of the tube with the springs out and the fork totally compressed. "

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Well glad you got that sorted! If you're still desire better performance, I'm sure JD can get that sorted out for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

If It is not too late- just make sure that you have the cartridge fully primed with oil as well, by moving the damper rod up and down a number of times after the initial oil fill, you should be able to feel smooth resistance through the full stroke once the cartridge has burped all the air out. You need to do the same with the fork leg, extend and compress a few times to drive out any air bubbles. Now full compress the leg (the last 10mm will require a bit more force as the oil lock piece comes into play) and you are ready to set the final oil level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thank you Terry, I did exactly as you describe while setting the level (the manual was fairly clear on this part). I also noticed the extra resistance on the leg to get it fully seated down after it was primed, but I didn't know the cause. When it felt primed and no air I set the level.

Doing new tires at the same time so I won't get a ride in until tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks as well Duc2v4. Jamie sent me initial rear settings so I should have a really good starting point.

I will zip tie the fork and check travel; I went with the Honda Pro 5W black bottle and set to 130mm.

This has been super helpful, with my son riding the bike I barely touched it for 2 years and simply ran out of ideas once I got it back to figure out the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you ensured that the forks are aligned correctly? If they're misaligned, the whole bike will feel like crap because of the extra force needed to compress the forks (along with some directional stability issues).

The "bounce alignment" method is the quickest and easiest method. I also have a plate glass rocking v's not rocking method that I use if I'm feeling extra anal, but the bounce method gets it about 99.5% of perfect. Search online for the bounce method. It's applicable to all bikes with forks (as opposed to weird front suspension systems), and there are good youtube videos out there too.

Do keep in mind that you could have some other issue though, so don't pin your hopes on any particular fix, because it could be something else.

Maybe check your head stem bearings too, because loose ones can knock and carry on, and they'll feel like harsh suspension.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, a couple of quick points:

1) First and foremost, the spring preload does not alter the way the motorcycle feels. It only adjusts the height of the rear.

.

Please drop me an email if you need anything else!

That only true with an actual (ride height) only adjustment that some shocks have), a spring preload adjustment absolutely effects how the suspension feels, including the ride height.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.