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When Should You Replace Radiator Hoses?


Corey

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The two short hoses underneath the carbs on a 3rd-4th gen are not especially curved--you could easily replace them with short sections of straight hose. I was going to do just that until racebikebitz offered to send me those two hoses from their SAMCO kit.

Ciao,

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  • 1 month later...

I still have yet to do this project. Probably going to buy OEM parts, but might consider SAMCO hoses if all of the hoses are there. Does anyone know to which OEM part numbers these SAMCO hoses correspond? Also seems like there are a few missing, no?

Is it possible to check for leaks and dynamic (engine on) pressure test the system without having to reassemble everything (put throttle bodies and airbox back on) so I don't have to pull everything apart again if there is a leak?

HON-62-CBR-929-Samco-500x500.jpg

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I am finally getting around to doing this project. I just ordered all of the parts, but received an email from Motosport stating that the part # 19504-MBG-000 is no longer available. I looked around and could not find it on any other websites either. This particular part is the top straight hose between the radiators (5th Gen) and shouldn't be too hard to find another option, considering it is a straight piece of hose. However, all the other hoses are labeled "waiting on inventory" which leads me to believe they may not be available any longer as well.

What are my options in terms of replacing hoses for an aging 5th Gen if the OEM hoses are not available? I am aware of the SAMCO option, but have heard it may not include all of the hoses, some pieces may be too short plus it is very expensive.

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Mohawk replaced his 5th gen's hoses with standard-size silicone hoses and elbows. I can't find the thread, but I think I linked to the post in my Beware the Yellow Peril build thread. There is one hose that has a slightly different ID on each end, but Mohawk's solution was to apply some heatshrink wrap to the water pump or whatever it was, but I didn't and didn't get a leak.

Ciao,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just curious.

1. About how long should this job take me?

2. How do I dynamic (engine on) pressure test and the system to check for leaks without having to reassemble everything (put throttle bodies and airbox back on) so I don't have to pull everything apart again if there is a leak?

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Just curious.

1. About how long should this job take me?

2. How do I pressure test and check the system for leaks without having to reassemble everything (put throttle bodies and airbox back on) so I don't have to pull everything apart again if there is a leak?

You need to email Grif :http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/user/23210-gig/

He did it and ran into a couple of problems.

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Bought the bike used (5th Gen), so I can't say for sure, but I think they are the original radiator hoses. I am not having any issues with them, but I can't help but think being 17 years old that they should probably be replaced?

How long will the original hoses typically last?

On a Yamaha M1 they last about one season:

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1998 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

I need #23 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MBG-000 but it is NO LONGER BEING MADE

2003 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

Does anybody know if #22 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MCW-D00 from the 6th Gen will fit the 5th Gen?

Same goes for the #9 CAP, RADIATOR 19037-GEE-710, will it fit a 5th Gen?

CMS says they have one left: EUR22.

Ciao,

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1998 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

I need #23 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MBG-000 but it is NO LONGER BEING MADE

2003 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

Does anybody know if #22 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MCW-D00 from the 6th Gen will fit the 5th Gen?

Same goes for the #9 CAP, RADIATOR 19037-GEE-710, will it fit a 5th Gen?

CMS says they have one left: EUR22.

Ciao,

The part on their website is € 19,50 ($21 USD) + VAT € 27,50 ($30 USD) = € 47,00 ($51 USD). In my opinion $51 for one hose is a bit extreme. And that price doesn't include any possible customs/duties cost, so the overall cost would be even more.

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1998 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

I need #23 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MBG-000 but it is NO LONGER BEING MADE

2003 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

Does anybody know if #22 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MCW-D00 from the 6th Gen will fit the 5th Gen?

Same goes for the #9 CAP, RADIATOR 19037-GEE-710, will it fit a 5th Gen?

Not sure about the parts interchange, however I do distinctly recall that on the 6th gen Toro Supercharger kit a 5th gen right side rad was required. The 5th gen rad was connected to the stock 6th gen hose so the outlet diameters should be compatible. Also, since it's confirmed that a 5th gen engine will bolt directly in to a 6th gen frame, the distance between the 2 rads should be very close if not the same. So for around $20, it might be worth a shot if the 5th gen hose is not available.

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Question #1: I am choosing NOT to "disconnect fuel tube and fuel return tube from the fuel pump" (section 5-67 of the service manual).

Is this going to be a problem?

Question #2: Section 5-67 of the 5th Gen Service Manual says be sure to relieve fuel pressure while the engine is off.

What do they mean and how do I do that?

Question #3: Section 5-67 of the Service manual says "disconnect the vaccum tubes and one-way valve.

What do they mean. Is this really necessary?

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1998 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

I need #23 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MBG-000 but it is NO LONGER BEING MADE

2003 VFR - Radiator Parts Fiche:

Does anybody know if #22 HOSE, RADIATOR MIDDLE (UPPER) 19504-MCW-D00 from the 6th Gen will fit the 5th Gen?

Same goes for the #9 CAP, RADIATOR 19037-GEE-710, will it fit a 5th Gen?

CMS says they have one left: EUR22.

Ciao,

The part on their website is € 19,50 ($21 USD) + VAT € 27,50 ($30 USD) = € 47,00 ($51 USD). In my opinion $51 for one hose is a bit extreme. And that price doesn't include any possible customs/duties cost, so the overall cost would be even more.

I didn't say it made sense, I just said it was available!

Personally, I'd replace them all with silicone hoses. Of course, I did just that!

Ciao,

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If they're steel bolts in to threaded aluminum (such as on heads / engine case, etc), if nothing is specified I use the same as for the bolts on the stator / clutch covers - IIRC 9 ft lbs.

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Thanks.

I ended up using my wrist torque wrench. Tighten until it stops and then let my wrist gently tell me she is done. Hopefully that will be OK.

The water joints have O-rings. I cleaned the mounting surfaces with a cloth the best I could. There was some minor debris from the old o-Ring and a little corrosion from the coolant left on the mounting surface. I didn't use any solvents as I was afraid residual would end up on the o-ring and negatively affect it. Also on one of the water joints the mounting didn't have that usual slight bit of resistance before tightening (caused by the o-ring). It basically felt like it just mounted flush from the start and one of the bolts basically felt like it bottomed out and didn't have much resistance before it was tight. Hope this isn't an indicator that it isn't sealed.

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