Member Contributer badelman Posted January 30, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 30, 2015 Looking at upgrading my R/R as suggested and am torn between two versions from Roadstercycle. I also NEED to do something bomb proofing for my main fuse A AND B. Both are either discolored or slightly melty but nothing crispy yet. So questions: 1. Should I go mosfet or the series? Roadstercycle has both: FH020AA, or SH775 R/R -I've read to stay away from Rick's models for now.. although Tightwad carries the Mosfet but it's a Ricks right? -I also have VFRNess installed so no need to go direct to battery so I assume I'll have to find adequate connectors somehow. 2. Are there any better r/r options in 2015? 3. I do plan on using the metric pack connector as suggested by Mello Dude for the Stator connection so am looking for a good crimper that wont break the bank. Any suggestions? 4. I've seen kits at wiremybike to replace fuse A and B connectors. Is there anything more bombproof? I remember seeing something called "littlefuse"? But cant find it for some reason. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!! Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arri Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 You can be the first one trying Suzuki V-strom 1000 R/R Shindengen SH847AA Ref. Suzuki: 32800-31J00 (142 dólares) http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Suzuki&partnumber=32800-31J00 I think is the best option right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted January 31, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 31, 2015 Have to point you to the FH020AA - it is wired direct to the battey. Roadster also sells the maxi fuse box - cant get anymore bombproof than that. On wiring the best bet is to plan out how you want to wire up everything, --- such as locate the fusebox, where you want the connector to set etc... Then figure the tool that will get it done. Of course you could still do soldering... Ask this guy a suggestion,.... you are going to need to crimp 10 guage on the R/R side.... http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tool-help.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allyance Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 When I had my 6th gen, I installed LED Headlights and taillights, lowering the electrical load by 160 watts. Roadster cycle suggested the Series rectifier because it handles load variations better. Normal Mosfet and older styles shunt unused power from the stator to ground, creating heat. I also re-wired the output of the R/R directly back to the battery, bypassing the twin connectors in the harness and extended wires on stator to new connector from Roadstercycle, eliminating the most troublesome connector on the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted January 31, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 31, 2015 I'd go with the FH020, myself. I have the earlier version (012?) and it works great. Direct to the battery + through a 30a, and - direct to frame ground. I've had all LEDs for several years except headlights. Did those last year. I think, if I recall, that if you look at the Roadster site that the other is better suited to lower rpm twins. I could be mistaken on that, but that's my recollection. Or maybe read it somewhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted December 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 7, 2015 You can be the first one trying Suzuki V-strom 1000 R/R Shindengen SH847AA Ref. Suzuki: 32800-31J00 (142 dólares) http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Suzuki&partnumber=32800-31J00 I think is the best option right now This is the one that I will use the next time around. This thread (posts 14 and 15) is very promising. http://www.triumphrat.net/3766329-post14.html Jack at roadstercycle also offers it as a kit: http://roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_ I'm not sure if I'll get just the SH847AA from one of vendors like partzilla and then tie it in with my existing VFRNess, using new furkawa connectors from eastern beaver, or if I'll go with the full kit from Jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer fink Posted December 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 7, 2015 Here is the installation of one on my Cbr600 http://www.bikersoracle.com/cbr600/forum/showthread.php?t=22611 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 7, 2015 You can be the first one trying Suzuki V-strom 1000 R/R Shindengen SH847AA Ref. Suzuki: 32800-31J00 (142 dólares) http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Suzuki&partnumber=32800-31J00 I think is the best option right now This is the one that I will use the next time around. This thread (posts 14 and 15) is very promising. http://www.triumphrat.net/3766329-post14.html Jack at roadstercycle also offers it as a kit: http://roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_ I'm not sure if I'll get just the SH847AA from one of vendors like partzilla and then tie it in with my existing VFRNess, using new furkawa connectors from eastern beaver, or if I'll go with the full kit from Jack. After reading his post he says with a full load the SH847AA was to hot to touch. My SH775 was never too hot too touch , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted December 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 7, 2015 You can be the first one trying Suzuki V-strom 1000 R/R Shindengen SH847AA Ref. Suzuki: 32800-31J00 (142 dólares) http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Suzuki&partnumber=32800-31J00 I think is the best option right now This is the one that I will use the next time around. This thread (posts 14 and 15) is very promising. http://www.triumphrat.net/3766329-post14.html Jack at roadstercycle also offers it as a kit: http://roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_ I'm not sure if I'll get just the SH847AA from one of vendors like partzilla and then tie it in with my existing VFRNess, using new furkawa connectors from eastern beaver, or if I'll go with the full kit from Jack. After reading his post he says with a full load the SH847AA was to hot to touch. My SH775 was never too hot too touch , Yeah, I don't like the elevated heat, as that is the enemy of electronic components. My concern with the SH775 are the reports of over-voltage at high RPMs (above 10K). While the SH847AA may run warmer/hotter, it's supposed to be good all the way to redline for our bikes. Not that I'm constantly bouncing off the rev limiter, but I do go above 10k fairly often. I'm thinking that relocating the R/R to the front of the bike, or somewhere that it will get more airflow than it does in the stock 5th gen location, will resolve the potential heat issue. I would likely cut the stator wires where they exit the stator cover and splice on 12 gauge wires to the relocated R/R, and then make sure the R/R output wires are 10 gauge to the battery. The biggest reason I'm wanting to go with a series R/R to to reduce the load on the stator, hopefully allowing the stator to run cooler (extending it's life), and also reducing parasitic drag (freeing up a little torque and HP). My current R/R (updated but stock, with the stock connector removed and the wires soldered) is starting to show signs of impending failure (voltage drops off as the RPMs increase). At idle I'm getting 13.9V - 13.8V but it drops off to 13.6V - 13.5V above 5K RPM (this is at the voltmeter, voltage at the battery is .1 or .2 higher) and falls off even more on warmer days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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