Guest arne Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Hi people of VFRD. Been shadowing the form for a wile and its time for me to make a proper introduction. After 2 Years of hunting for that perfect used VFR I found one in January that was in a very good condition and the price was wright. Its a 2002 model it had 34k kilometres on the clock(54k Currently) and was all stock standard and well maintained accident free.(pic can be found in mi gallery) I instantly fell in love with the bike and all mi expectations was met when I went for a test drive. Fork out the cash and its all mine now. The bike was performing great the first couple of months. In June I started experiencing mi first electric gremlin ( Old story went to start bike, dead ,no light, buzzing sound. turn bike off/on and it start up again).That's wen I joined the forum and got the info regarding the recall and blue connection problem. Checked mi bike and recall was not done called the local dealer to get more info. Before he got back to me the bike left me on the side off the road dead again. Got it home removed the panels and found the blue connector problem. Went online and found the quick fix blue connector post did that, bike was still dead. Followed that harness down to the battery halfway got to the connector block for all the earth wires and found a melted connection. Fixed it and run extra ground wire to it and bike started right back up. Till date never had the problem again. A couple of days later I was in a mood for some need for speed and I was confronted with the problem of the bike losing all power wen it hits 182-184 Kilometres per hour at 8000rpms . There is a very faint feeling of bogging that you can feel if you are driving on a very smooth road. Before the connector fixed I had no problem getting it flat out to 270 kilometres per hour. 1st 2de 3de it pulls thru all the way hitting the rev limit from 4 gear up as soon as you hit 182-184 it lose power. let go the throttle back to 180 and open up again and it will go again no prop till it hits 182-184. Under normal driving speeds the bike performs perfect. Sins July if been probing,Testing and Modding to fix this problem with no luck. The bike is a workhorse not a Sunday afternoon drive every 2de week. I travel around 120 kilometres a day to work and back. 6 days a week. Some things I have done so far -Replaced oil x3, all filters x3, chain, tires -blocked the pair valves -Mod the air box -o2 sensor resistor eliminator -Regulator monitor wire rerouting -Tested the Stator, 0.6 ohm all round no resisting to ground -Installed a LCD Voltmeter -Checked all hoses -Did the open fuel cap test drive -Checked all vacuum lines -All spark plugs fires -Checked all harness connector blocks -Tested all sensors according to manual -Battery life unknown - Voltage readings from voltmeter , Bike off 12.7volt,Bike on 12.4volts, high beam on 12.0volt continuously no dropping. -Charging readings-bike off 12.7volts.starting bike 11.8volts,cold start idols 13.5volts.Warm idols 12.8volts,under throttle 1500rpm and upwards 14.4 volts -Run 4 tanks of injector cleaner If any one can give me some more pointers on what have gone wrong after the blue connector failure and of any more testing to be done it will be appreciated. Especially the sensors not all that confident in the manual's . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 29, 2014 Due you think you mite have pickup some trash in your gas tank and the fuel filter is clogged up or your fuel pump is failing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted November 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 29, 2014 The voltage you mention at idle when warm (12.8v) is too low, though it sounds like you're getting 13.5v when cold? But it sounds like your battery is ok so that's good. Since you've done a lot of work on the bike, it would be worth re-checking all your electrical connections and that all the vaccum hoses on your airbox are routed properly and in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Thanks for the replay’s To answer Switchblades question mi tank inside is in a perfect condition no rust. I cleaned out the entire fuel pump assembling filter and did the pressure test on the fuel pump and fuel line all was within speck 250kpa. Cogswell I am pretty confident that all my connecters are in good shape went over them close to ten times same for the vacuum hoses. No harm in checking them again. I am wondering if there is an alternative way to test the TP, IAT and MAP sensor. From what I understand that combination of the sensors control the fuel mix. Don’t know if lack of fuel from this can be the problem. Is it possible for the ESU to automatically went and change a parameter or something when the blue connector failed. The bike did not cut out strait it started stumbling 4-5 times power coming and going then it died completely. I did the ESU reset trick by removing the battery. Don’t know if it actually did reset the ESU. I am not getting any FI code errors. I did manual create some errors (unplug MAP sensor) and the FI picked it up 1ste time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 29, 2014 What about your catalytic converter ? Could it be clogged up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 good quistion switchblade something i did not think of .How will i go about to check if its cloged and if so how can i clean it(cleaner thru the pair valve hoses?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted November 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2014 There are tests for the TP, IAT and MAP sensors outlined in the service manual. I'm not sure if it's back in the downloads section or not. One other thing to check for proper operation is the fuel pressure regulator. Honda does not make that easy - a gauge has to be placed in line with the banjo bolt on the fuel rail. One easy thing to check is to remove the vacuum hose from the regulator and see if you can smell fuel in the hose - that means the diaphragm is allowing fuel to pass through it. Also, if you have a hand vacuum pump, you can pull a vacuum on it and see if it can hold it. If not that also can mean the diaphragm may not be working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted November 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2014 So how many miles & years are on the spark plugs? Sounds like you checked them but if they are old they may need to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2014 good quistion switchblade something i did not think of .How will i go about to check if its cloged and if so how can i clean it(cleaner thru the pair valve hoses?) You could take your mid pipe off and start it and see if it is pumping air. Ear plugs if you like . The only way I know to repair is to replace it. But i have read where people taken a portable drill and some cloths hanger type wire and drilled thru the cat . Your choice . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 MarkDetroit the spark plugs I cant say how old they are, I can say that sins I got the bike I putt 20k kilometres on it. I did pull them an did not show any trace of carbon build up or oil residue nice clean gray , I don't have any start up problems or misfiring when the bike idols or under load. The fact that it only bogs when it hits the 182-184 speed and not a set rev point (9000rpm) is confusing me.Like I said 1ste 2de 3de al the way to the limiter from 4 gear up as soon as it hits 182-184 it hits a wall. The plugs is a b$@#h to get in south Africa and the dealers is asking mad money for a new set. But if all fails a have to fork out t he cash and get a set CogsWell I do have the Manual and did some of the test and got all good results was wondering if any one had a different way of testing sins I don't have the test harness for the ECU. I also used a custom fuel line pressure gage that a hook up between the fuel filter and fuel line( Removed the fuel pump from tank). got the bike on a stand and run some test in and pressure was holding steady at 250kpa in spec with manual. Think I will test it again next weekend Switchblade I am going to check with a local exhaust dealer and just go with removing the cat. hope it don't push up mi fuel consumption Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2014 You already have the o2 eliminator install so should make any difference in mpg's. And if you decide to replace it and there any pic's of the inside of the old cat will you post them for us to see? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Got the local exhaust dealer book for next week to remove the cat. Will take some pic's to upload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted December 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2014 Is there a Jap-spec speed limiter hiding in the 800 somewhere? 180km/hr used to be a limit for that market, and bikes like the VFR400 had a limiter built into the speedo. If you're keen on experimenting, how about pulling the speed sensor cable at the countershaft and trying the speed test again? Does the bike refuse to pull over 180 in all of the possible gears? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted December 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2014 Is there a Jap-spec speed limiter hiding in the 800 somewhere? 180km/hr used to be a limit for that market, and bikes like the VFR400 had a limiter built into the speedo. If you're keen on experimenting, how about pulling the speed sensor cable at the countershaft and trying the speed test again? Does the bike refuse to pull over 180 in all of the possible gears? You might be on to something! \ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/64677-2006-vfr-800-vtec-jap-spec-derestrict/ He successfully derestricted his the thread includes a how-to that was helpful to him http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/64677-2006-vfr-800-vtec-jap-spec-derestrict/?p=766761 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Oh mi word you ppl are AWESOME .The ESU wire bride between black/White and blue I repaired thinking it got melted together when the blue connector failed. Cant wait to get of work to go and undo this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I LOVE YOU PPL OF FVRD WORLD. So I fixed the fix of the fix to remove the speed limiter( :smile2: ).So now i can go back and enjoy riding without being concern of some unit failing and the bike leafing me on the side of the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted December 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2014 Ride carefully and post some nice pictures of your VFR in the South African landscape. Including pretty females optional... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.