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Idle Hammer Noise/feeling?


elfreako

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Hi All, I've been a bit hesitant in asking this question, as I thought I would be able to find an answer online somewhere, but for the life of me I can't.

I've had my bike for just over 2 months now, bought it off someone who's owned it since new. I’ve noticed a slight knocking sensation in the handlebars when I'm in idle and the clutch is out (usually waiting a set of lights), if I pull the clutch in, the sensation and sound goes away. The feeling/sound (note; a very slight sound) seems to be in tune with the rev of the engine, if I rev harder it goes faster and sort of smooths itself out. If I let it idle (just above 1000rpm) you will feel/hear it in tune of the engine.

I’ve been scouring the net to see if there’s anyone else who has a similar issue with their VFR1200F, and I can’t seem to find any. I have noticed that some VFR800’s seem to suffer from a cam chain tensioner issue for the knocking sound, but I don’t see how that would be affected when pulling the clutch in to kill the sound/feeling, and releasing the clutch to hear the sound/feeling.

I have also found that SV1000’s suffer from a clutch dampening issue, where some people have even gone to the extent of modifying their clutch with rubber dampners to solve the issue, but I don’t see what that has to do with the feeling thru the handlebars, and I don’t hear the noise coming from there either.

I’m more inclined to think that it’s either the nature of a big V-4 bike, or the cam chain tensioner (or chain) needs some adjustments/replacement. What are your thoughts?

Note; the bike has done 17,000 KMs (11,200 Miles) and I think is due for a major service. It’s had 2 standards and 1 major service since new, the guy who owned it had a yearly service schedule to adhere to, being part of a warranty service he bought. Services done at 750km, 7,500km, 10,000km, 11,000km (he didn’t ride as much towards the end).

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Having same CCT with my 2007 as well, now at 26,000 miles. Once engine warms up above 160 degrees, tapping noise starts and goes intermittent. Can here it when stopped at lights, very annoying. Went to mechanic and he said no big deal, just wait till noise gets worse, then bring it in to replace. Can anyone confirm that CCT noise does not affect engine?? And if not, what hat is the noise/signal/indicator that it does need to be replaced??

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By the sound of it, your at the point of about as worse as it gets, do the oil port mod in the gasket if replacing the cct, .5mm to 2.75mm. No known failures on the cct on the vfr for lack of chain tension, the noise is within the body of the tensioner itself, and not from chain tension.

Oops I noted your speaking of the 1200, and not the 800

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By the sound of it, your at the point of about as worse as it gets, do the oil port mod in the gasket if replacing the cct, .5mm to 2.75mm. No known failures on the cct on the vfr for lack of chain tension, the noise is within the body of the tensioner itself, and not from chain tension.

Most who get the CCT noise found out that it is the tensioner itself making all the racket. I guess its the plunger and spring rattling against each other from the vibration coming from the chain and tensioning rail. As far as I can remember, there were never really any reports of the tensioner really failing. they just got noisier and noisier, but I guess they still provided tension on the chain to prevent it from jumping off the cam and crankshaft drive gears.

It's hard to just ignore the noise, but consider how Ducati riders seem to learn live easily enough with their dry clutch noise (which frankly sounds terrible to me), the VFR CCT rattle can't be that bad in comparison??....

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Good info thx. Mine is CCT noise on VFR800. Is this a common problem for the 6th gen? Can that oil port gasket be changed on the 800 or just the 1200? Just wondering if I should fork over the $400 to mechanic to replace, or maybe just live with the noise? If I get Ducati jacket, is problem solved? :wacko:

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Try the oil remedies first. Some had good luck silencing their noisy CCTs with a change to 10W40 non synthetic, dino oils (IIRC). Not sure how that works but there's definitely been enough people here who fixed it that way, but maybe just temporarily though. Next usual fix done is the winding in more spring pre-load into the CCT. there's threads in here on that too. This seems to only work 50/50 for most.

But there's also enough threads in this forum showing how to change out the CCTs yourself, if you are mechanically inclined/equipped enough to do so, in some cases, even without taking off the induction system from the engine. (You might as well consider doing the newly tried the oil port mod on the CCT while you are at it to keep the rattles away longer, or maybe for good). That way it will just cost you the new CCT part...and maybe a few skinned knuckles, but much easier to take than the big bill the dealership will stick you with, if you had them do it....

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Good info thx. Mine is CCT noise on VFR800. Is this a common problem for the 6th gen? Can that oil port gasket be changed on the 800 or just the 1200? Just wondering if I should fork over the $400 to mechanic to replace, or maybe just live with the noise? If I get Ducati jacket, is problem solved? :wacko:

It could be a similar situation on the 1200(I know nothing about the 1200). The oil port modification on the 800 gasket is pretty straight forward), its a metal gasket, Ive probably used the same gasket at least 1/2 dozen times on removal. You need a stethoscope to confirm which cylinder bank your noise is coming from, so you don't remove the wrong one, but the fronts(the most work) are the most chronic for noise to develop.

If you want to try oil, just get some cheap car oil Valvoline 10w40, and ride 50 miles, if that doesn't rid the noise, oil type alone wont do it. But most want to run what ever oil they want, so to the oil port mod and replace the cct. You can try to adding tension spring wise of the old tensioner to keep the internal body from rattling, but be advised it will easily explode if you try and take the tensioner apart, and then you'll be guessing to get it back, so just replace and do the port mod would be my suggestion.

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Since the sound goes away when the clutch is pulled in doesn't that mean its backlash in the basket and not related to CCT?

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Since the sound goes away when the clutch is pulled in doesn't that mean its backlash in the basket and not related to CCT?

Yeah if there's a direct link in noise change pulling the clutch in, not the cct.

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I've recently put in 10W30, which I believe is the recommended thickness, but he noise/feeling is still there afterwards. If it's not the CCT, then I'm not too sure what else it could be. Thou, I'm a computer technician, not a mechanic. Any other ideas if pulling in the clutch resolves the noise/feeling?

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my 2 cents for what its worth.

The noise while idling in neural with the clutch level let out (hand off the bar), to me, is completely normal as mine does it too. If you think about it (at least this is how I do), when you pull the clutch in the link between the motors crankshaft and the transmissions main shaft is broken and the transmission shaft and gears don't spin. If you let the clutch out that link is now complete. The gears in the transmission are aligned so that no power is transferred but the main shafts will be spinning since the clutch discs and plate are all now "hooked" together. Since there is no wind, road, motor, what have you noise that you hear when at speed you now hear the transmission noise. Now this is only my reckoning based of my basic "how things have to work" knowledge. Someone with more smarts than me can either agree or disagree.

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my 2 cents for what its worth.

The noise while idling in neural with the clutch level let out (hand off the bar), to me, is completely normal as mine does it too. If you think about it (at least this is how I do), when you pull the clutch in the link between the motors crankshaft and the transmissions main shaft is broken and the transmission shaft and gears don't spin. If you let the clutch out that link is now complete. The gears in the transmission are aligned so that no power is transferred but the main shafts will be spinning since the clutch discs and plate are all now "hooked" together. Since there is no wind, road, motor, what have you noise that you hear when at speed you now hear the transmission noise. Now this is only my reckoning based of my basic "how things have to work" knowledge. Someone with more smarts than me can either agree or disagree.

mine does it too...i agree on your theory, i was thinking the same thing while i was riding today....my Valkyrie does it too all bike do i think

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Didn't notice the mention of the clutch lever relationship on the OP's post, but yes, if it goes away when let out the clutch, it is drivetrain (most likely, clutch) related not CCT. My Honda Hawk GT had a soft, repeating clunking sound at the clutch when I pulled it in for a good part of the 24K miles I owned it, and it never blow up or ran in any bad way all that time. So I would not worry too much about it as long as it does not get louder/worse.....

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Just thought I'd reply with some info of a bike mechanic mate who works with Yamaha's, not Honda's, but seems to be the similar thinking as ours.

"If you have a service due soon from what you have written I would be asking them to check the manifold vacuum balance. If one cylinder vacuum is above OR below the others this can create a pulse in the running causing a backlash effect and a knocking sound to the ear. It is not unusual for there to be an imbalance in the vacuums as slight wear on linkages etc. do occur. As the engine is of such a size chattering of the primary gears- clutch hub and clutch gear can result. These tend to `float/free wheel’ UNTIL you apply drag or a load on the system. Thus removing the knock as such. And as you have been around motorcycles for most of your life you will pick up on any change in running condition is something that may be the cause of your situation. Other things such as air leaks, faulty spark plug, poor fuel can also singularly or collectively give the same symptom.

I hope this sheds some light in some way for you. The main thing really is to see a Honda Dealer that HAS experience with this model."
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