solocycles Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Having some electrical issues and started some troubleshooting today. I am an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff so bear with me. The battery is about a week old. Battery at rest was 13.06 At idle it was 14.6+ so I immediately turned the bike off. From what I have read on threads both of these numbers are high so I have a R/R issue. All the connections (R/R and Stator) look fine with no hot wires or signs of burning. I am still working on testing the stator but is that even necessary with what the battery is doing? Thanks, Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 That's only .1 volt above ideal charge voltage. You need to run "The Drill" The DrillGo through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. The stator connector is the number one burn it up connector on the bike. - Your gonna have to fix that! Even if they look good, time to GENTLY pinch all female connectors to ensure a tight fit.Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.Steps: ---- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.These are R/R quick checks------ With voltmeter at battery posts get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. (if in the 12s at idle, check at about 1900rpms instead. Its not unusual for the system to be in discharge at idle. )- Check stator - These tests are done checking the connector that goes to the stator. (Engine off)1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Connector still apart, engine off)- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 60ish and more. Again – 3 readings- (Again, connector apart) Repeat hot.This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 Marty, Those #'s are perfect! I know a 12 volt battery... According to the manual the R/R can put out up to 16 volts max... I have had a couple of Rectifiers go bad, when they do go bad they overcharge the battery. My '94 is at 103k now & all is good Get yourself a voltage meter and as long as it is under 15-16 volts but not under 12 your golden! Also get yourself a spare R/R and carry with you and you should have no problems.... Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 Did you test the bike for voltage at 5k rpm? If your choke was on or otherwise above idle, 14.6V is not bad. That's about where a healthy charging system should be at speed, and for me would not be a reason to terminate testing. You can test the stator, but because you're concerned about overcharging it seems like it is working just fine. What was your initial problem? To help in the troubleshooting process, we will need pretest battery voltage, idle volts cold, 5k volts cold, idle hot, 5k volts hot, and post battery voltage. Stator resistance and AC volts would also be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solocycles Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Ok. I will attempt to do the drill. I thought I read something yesterday about anything over 14 at idle was bad. I have a charging issue. New battery did ok for a few days then bike wouldn't start. Put it on the charger yesterday and it fired right up. When testing the stator with the meter should the the ignition switch be on or off? Thanks, Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 Check the stator AFTER the bike has been run up to operating temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Check the stator AFTER the bike has been run up to operating temp. Ok. I will attempt to do the drill. I thought I read something yesterday about anything over 14 at idle was bad. I have a charging issue. New battery did ok for a few days then bike wouldn't start. Put it on the charger yesterday and it fired right up. When testing the stator with the meter should the the ignition switch be on or off? Thanks, Marty the resistance to ground test is with the ignition OFF. It shouldn't make any difference on that particular test, though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solocycles Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Here we go: Cold- 13.08 Cold Idle- 14.6 Cold 5K- 14.10 Warm Idle- 14.7 5K Warm- 14.10 Warm Post test- 13.38 I included a pic of some warm connector with the insulation coming off. It is the connection next to the stator connection on the right side of the frame. I haven't checked anything else after finding that. New wiring harness from here? This bike is more of an adventure than I planned on. Thanks, Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solocycles Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 I went to do the leak test on the battery and noticed both terminals were loose. (Hopefully that is the problem) Sorry to waste everyone's time. If you ever see me feel free to kick me in the ball sack for your troubles. Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 No worries better to know for sure....But kudos to you for your wiliingness to take responsibililty This bike is more of an adventure than I planned on. Adventures are the way to leaning! you should have no further issues, ride on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 Loose battery terminals always cause issues. Hope that fixes it. Your numbers look fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 U mind if you buy a round of beers instead? :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solocycles Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Buying beer is always a good thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted July 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2014 Anytime you can fix your bike for free, it's a win! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thx113 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Is it normal to get the voltage drop from 14.7 at idle to 14.15 at 3-5ooorpm? This is what mine is doing and it has new Japanese made reg/rect and all connections are tight and no burning. Do you check the ac (yellow) leads with the engine running and the generator coupling disconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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