Rc51 Clutch Bleed

[paladinreed]

Hey guys, I know people here know their Hondas. Just curious if anyone has any tips for me on the rc51 clutch master bleed. I bought a used clutch and mounted it and attempted to bleed with my minivac.

Managed to flush it and have some lever feel but then after realizing I still had some air in it (clutch not engaging all the way and bike would want to roll in first etc) I went back to bleed it more.

Now it isn't pulling fluid down from the res to the slave via the minivac. And will gain absolutely no lever feel.

I tried to bleed the banjo as well but it will only spit a small bit of fluid if I pump it like 10-15 times slowly even.

Kinda stumped. Don't know what else could be wrong.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

[FJ12Ryder]

A used clutch: Master cylinder? Slave cylinder? Clutch pack?

If you bought a used master cylinder it's possible the seals on the piston are shot and not building any pressure. You also might check the small feed hole

to make sure it isn't gunked up. But this is assuming you are talking a used master cylinder. If you are using your master cylinder and it was working fine,

then I don't have much.

[paladinreed]

Yeah, used master. I'll check the feed hole. Also made the mistake of giving the lever full travel to the grip while it was empty. I work for a few hours but I'll be back at it tonight. Thanks FJ12Ryder.

[FJ12Ryder]

If it was a dry cylinder and you pulled the lever all the way back, it's possible that the seal might catch and flip itself over rendering it useless. Not as likely, but

definitely possible.

[KevCarver]

I've got one on my VFR and the slave cylinder is the same on both bikes. I've bled it to trouble at all with a vacuum bleeder. No trick to it, sorry.

[Guest]

If you are using an actual MityVac, swap the hose location to the top and push your fluid from the Slave up to the Reservoir.

This should force most of the air out and get your clutch feel back.

Then reverse the MityVac hoses back to suction and flush the system from the slave, making sure not to drain the reservoir.

Lastly, once your clutch is working again, Pull the lever to the bar and wrap a zip-tie around it.

Go to bed and by morning your clutch will be better than perfect.

Zip-tie trick is great for the brakes, as well.

[VFR Capt.Bob]

Super easy to rebuild. My RC clutch took a lot of bleeding to firm up. But once it did seems fine.

[gll429]

remove the M C from the bar.

tip so the banjo bolt is at the lowest spot.. tap with a screwdriver handle.

[SEBSPEED]

remove the M C from the bar.

tip so the banjo bolt is at the lowest spot.. tap with a screwdriver handle.

This always works for me, clutch or brake.

I start at the bottom and tap my way up to work any air to the top. You must ensure the escape point for the air = the highest point in the system.

Don't crack the banjos loose, this is bad practice as it usually allows more air in, than out. Instead, set your escape point high, tap the line(s), and gently pull the lever until you see the air bubble up and out. Repeat as needed. Usually only pull the lever to the point where it clicks off the microswitch.