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Clutch Repair Problem


expvet

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I am inspecting the clutch on my 06 non ABS VFR. I have removed the Crankcase cover and as shown in the included Illustration have already removed all of the parts with the red line through them (pressure plate, inner and outer baskets, clutch pack ect). The problem is that now to remove the ignition pulse generator/ primary drive gear bolt (shown in second illustration) I need to put the bike in gear and apply the brake in order to lock the gears and remove the 76lb torqued bolt. Bike is currently in Nuetral and when I tried to shift through the gears it was not engaging any gear. I did not press the clutch lever since there is no lifter rod or clutch plates at the moment. Can the gears be shifted without the pack and rod installed?

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hold the clutch then turn the bolt..

or if all that is off. wrap a towel around the gear..

have a very stupid pal hold the towel . and use an impact gun. :beer:

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Or if you like to use your fingers after this job, use a special tool to block the clutchpost-9697-0-10181200-1395182390.jpg

It is very simple to make youre own version, bend two steel strips, drill holes in the middle, bolt them together and action.

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To answer the question, yes, you can shift the gears of the bike even without the parts that you've already removed. The issue is, that to remove the bolt that you're attempting to remove by following instructions that you're referring to, you'd be using the engine compression and transmission gearing to aide the shaft from not spinning. But since you have already removed the clutch assembly, you have disconnected the engine from the transmission so you don't have that back-up aide. I'd suggest reinstalling the outer clutch basket and placing a penny between the contact area of the clutch basket gear and the starter clutch gear. I think that will work from the way I'm looking at it.

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Any other suggestions out there? I have the bike in a storage facility and am trying to put together as many solutions as possible for when I return Thursday to hopefully wrap it up.

@gll429 Unfortunately, or better yet, fortunately, I don't hang out with anyone that dumb.

@VFRBert I have this Motion Pro tool that worked well to help remove the clutch inner nut that is at 96lbs torque. Trying to get the tranny and brake to help hold the gear still as the first option though.

@hondalover That sounds like an option. I would like to engage the tranny and brake in helping to hold the gear if possible though.

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WHy are you removing a pulse generator?

Clutch inspection (in my opinion) is taking plates off and checking them out (which seems you already done) is there a known bearing problem with those?

I have a KTM and there is a "known clutch bearing problem" so I researched it a bit and it happened to like 3 guys, so now everyone thinks they need to replace those bearings... I'm a firm believer in not overdoing the maintenance.

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You need a clear clutch cover, you really do.... :-)

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Agree with Dmitry, I've never seen a good reason to remove the entire clutch basket? Unless it was to split the cases for an engine rebuild or a gearbox bearing problem.

If the tangs on the clutch basket are ok, that's as far as you need to go...

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First of all Thanks for all the good advice. I was able to shift gears by turning the rear wheel but since the friction plates are out there was nothing to engage the inner basket and lock down the starter clutch assembly gear in order to remove the bolt. But I used the MotionPro clutch holder tool's 2 holding studs to hold the gear steady and it came right off with an impact wrench. Now all needed parts are out except for one thing, the oil pump driven sprocket (shown below). It is torqued to only 13lbs but I have no means to keep the sprocket locked in place in order to remove the bolt. I can fit a flathead screwdriver through one of the 4 holes shown on the sprocket and behind the sprocket on the oil pump are these tabs, but are they solid enough to use as leverage? During this project in most cases I could have just used the impact wrench and the bolts or nut would have come right off, but my concerns are more for the reassembly. I like to torque to spec and need to see where parts would be held still in order to torque up before I remove them. So my question is has anyone removed this oil pump sprocket bolt and what did you use as leverage?

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