Guest ArizonaRC36 Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Went through a few topics on here to make sure I was checking my points throughout the electrical charging system part... and specs with the Honda Service Manual too.Last year, replaced a lot of the electrics and up until now... didn't notice anything odd with the charging system itself. A few weeks ago, was out doing a long haul ride and half way thru... bike went dead just like that. Wasn't sure what it was until getting the bike back and doing trouble shootings. Outcome was sadly... the battery (thought it was the starter solenoid). Battery was sadly, Cycle Gears MegaBoost battery. I know it is not a good battery anyway (yep, worked for Cycle Gear). So with tight budgets right now, I went and got a replacement battery, same type... MegaBoost. Now originally, the battery that came with the bike was a Yuasa and when we did our shake down of the bikes electrics, battery was still pretty decent. Held 13.96 volts after reaching full charge on a trickle charger and when running, volts were around 13.2/13.6 at idle and around 14.2 or so at 5000rpms.But over the months, things failed and a lot of things were replaced. New Stator (Ricks), new R/R ('05 GSXR750), new starter solenoid and eventually the battery (let it go fully dead). After installing those new items (soldered all wires, no plugs) and putting in new MegaBoost battery... things seemed fine electrically. I did notice that numbers seemed lower than before. At idle, I would see at the battery terminals roughly 12.2/12.3 volts when warm. At 5000rpms, would see 13.1/13.2 volts. Didn't do much about it though as I had plaguing carb issues (previous posts). So, a few weeks ago when I went dead... the p.o.s. MegaBoost failed but of course picked up another one. Since these batteries, firing up seems like, more work I guess and after diagnosing... still seeing 12.2/12.4 volts when at 1200 rpms and about 13.1/13.2 volts at 5000rpms at the battery terminals. I did double check the stator and at idle, showed approximately 21vac at idle at the unplugged yellow wires and 58/60vac at 5000rpms. Resistance when engine off are all under 1 ohms and continuity checks out like it is suppose to. The R/R is brand new and double checked it as well, operating properly and in specs. So the bike runs and fires up, but the battery is just never going above 12.8v when at 5000rpms and always stays at 12.2/12.4 volts at idle. Trickle charge never ever goes above 13.6volts, mostly see after full charge, 13.2/13.4 volts. Is this honestly the p.o.s. battery? I know it is a garbage brand battery with minimal specs to it. Everything testing leads to tell me the charging system is great, but the battery... even though it's new, is such a p.o.s. that this voltage is what I am going to expect? I want to go with lithium battery here coming, but wondering with those great spec numbers... will be my solution? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 13.8 or 13.9v, is extremely high for a battery at rest, so thats not normal. An good agm battery in rested state will hold around 13.1 volt. Typical lead acid, you wont get more than the upper twelves at rest. As to your issue, i dont know , the 6thgens have fairly strong outputs in comparison to earlier models. what you relly need to look at is 5000 rpm with high beams on, if below 13.4 volt, you have a charging isue, and even 13.4 is barely charging at best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 13.8 or 13.9v, is extremely high for a battery at rest, so thats not normal. An good agm battery in rested state will hold around 13.1 volt. Typical lead acid, you wont get more than the upper twelves at rest. As to your issue, i dont know , the 6thgens have fairly strong outputs in comparison to earlier models. what you relly need to look at is 5000 rpm with high beams on, if below 13.4 volt, you have a charging isue, and even 13.4 is barely charging at best. Gotcha... didn't check that part out. Will do so this week and see what numbers I get. Thanks for that info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 11, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2013 13.1-13.2V at 5k is very low. Manual I believe specs at 13.6, although a GSXR RR maybe different. To me it sounds like a bad connection somewhere. The stator seems good, and even a crappy battery should show higher voltage when running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 13.1-13.2V at 5k is very low. Manual I believe specs at 13.6, although a GSXR RR maybe different. To me it sounds like a bad connection somewhere. The stator seems good, and even a crappy battery should show higher voltage when running. Probably take stuff off and go over all the wiring again, see if something happened or is possibly creating an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Hey RC36, How's your charging problem going? I just recently went through the same mess on my '95 VFR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 When you're done messing around, get yourself a mosfet r/r from a R1, or another source new. Wire it straight to the battery, and your problems will be solved. i have some other things involved too because I rebuilt the harness, but I hold a solid 14.2 idle to redline with these parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Hey Naked, I just put a FH020AA on my bike, with a 10gauge wire harness and 30A fuse straight to a new AGM battery. All is good until the engine gets warmed up and my voltage drops to about 12.4! I have good connections and grounds, and I checked the stator with my DMM. 0.5 ohms, 18VAC @ idle, 68VAC at 5K RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Hey RC36, How's your charging problem going? I just recently went through the same mess on my '95 VFR. Haven't had any good time to get down to business with the VFR. I have been looking into an affordable R/R off an R1 that NakedViffer mentioned. I will start going over all the wiring that's associated and start hard wiring/soldering. Also making sure wires are good, clean and all grounds good too. When you're done messing around, get yourself a mosfet r/r from a R1, or another source new. Wire it straight to the battery, and your problems will be solved. i have some other things involved too because I rebuilt the harness, but I hold a solid 14.2 idle to redline with these parts. Thanks for the info on that! Will be checking into a nice one and hard wire her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kgsmotorcycles Posted September 16, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2013 I built one of these and my rr runs fairly cool in comparison... Got to reuse my old RR. as i caught it before it completely melted.. Over 14V all the time now.. The earth from rr some reason goes straight into the middle of the loom?? i suggest the RR needs better earths to dump the excess power generated.. So now go straight to frame and then battery on - (green) Also an extra line (red) from + on battery to charging output of rr. Touch thicker wires with new connectors. Have moved the 3 yellow wires toasting away in middle of engine, to along the left and repositioned rr from right to the left rear sub frame.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Hey RC36, As long as that R/R is the newer "FH" type (MOSFET), then you shouldn't have any problems with it. (Most, if not all, newer Yamaha R/Rs should be FH type) I bought my R/R from Jack at http://roadstercycle.com/ along with the matching harness. I could have used my VFRness, but I would've had to swap out the connectors for the new 2 connector R/R. So, I removed my VFRness and saved it. Come to find out that even though my stator checks out good on a DMM, it breaks down under heat build up. So, I ordered a new one on Amazon. Should get it this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Some pics of my progress...... Old OEM with new Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Again........ Stock OEM R/R wires (tiny, aren't they?) Comparing OEM to new 14 ga. stator wires. New R/R connectors with 10 ga. power leads and 14 ga. stator wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 17, 2013 Upgrading the yellow stator wires won't really have any effect, since they are permanently connected to the windings within the stator itself. Unless you rebuild the stator, there will always be relatively thinner wires ( weak link) in that circuit. FYI, there appears to be an inexpensive Triumph harness lead that includes the relevant connectors: T2500676. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 17, 2013 Jammerkiller good job and do what you fill is best for your bike ....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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