Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted February 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2013 I miss the old quoting system :( 15.7v on a hot idle is too high. Do you have a link to the RR you bought? 6 wire with switched power? I thought the 6th wire was a monitor wire that goes to the battery. What were your AC voltages from the stator? You are checking mA leak on the neg side right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bassie Posted February 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2013 The values in your first post where good, how come they went bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRSuperfreak Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Don't know why they went bad, but process of elimination pointed to the RR since it was old, and was the only thing not replaced. I don't have a link to the specific part it's chinese, branded locally there's no point... No I didn't test on neg. No reason, just didn't,-will do on neg next and using clamp wires to the car battery as I clip multimeter and remove the connector off the battery so the alarm won't reset. Yes I know final test will have to be with the clamp from car off, and MMeter in between the bike neg and batt post neg. The AC from stator were (about, I didn't write this down) = 15AC at idle and 50+ at 3k RPM, will test that as well. At this point everything is suspect and I gotta get this going since the weather's been great, cool days are my fav, and traffic is insane, this is currently my workhorse!. Thanks!, will post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted February 5, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 5, 2013 I tried a Chinese RR once. Well for about an hour... Guy in a car next to me says: Mate I think you're on fire. And indeed... I was on fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 I run all oem components with st 1300 agm, even at idle with lights on and electric vest on high, I never see below 13.8v. Usually dont see below 14volt. But your running aftermarket rewire and aftemarket RR, so your just asking for trouble. Having said that back when I ran the standard battery, I did see the high 12'v with electric vest on at idle, but thats been a few years back, Im on my second st 1300 agm battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRSuperfreak Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I miss the old quoting system :( 15.7v on a hot idle is too high. Do you have a link to the RR you bought? 6 wire with switched power? I thought the 6th wire was a monitor wire that goes to the battery. What were your AC voltages from the stator? You are checking mA leak on the neg side right? /quote end. Don't know what happened, I edited it because it was quoting the same post multiple times. Hello. Sorry about the late reply, my stepdaughter was hospitalized and everything was put aside. She's back home with her grandma (better environs), so I went back to distract myself with the bike, here are some results, I think I will get a newer MMeter, don't care for all that fluctuating. But here's what I have; Stator AC; 12 to 15 on all 3 leads. I couldn't really get reliable data on higher RPM's honestly, MMeter was just all over the place. Engine and lights on, idle; 13.4, and 15.8 anytime the RPM's are >3k. (riding and testing, wired the MMeter to the batt's charging harness). Drain test on negative pole: 170mA. I pulled every fuse one at a time, absolutely no chage. I disconnected the Xenon light ballasts: Same 170mA. Except when I disconnected the alarm led; it dropped 30mA!, to 140mA. Rode it to work, 25 min. commute in high speed route., 4 hours later; No start. Prior to all this; two nights ago I left it on a maintenance-level battery charger (13.5 steady volts), for about 6 hours. Next day;I disconnected the battery neg, to rule out parasitic drain overnight. This afternoon; Bike started!, 3 times in 2 minutes. (just keep in mind, the Die Hard charger charged it, not the bike itself). So; Things are pointing to the battery being bad, even tho it was unpacked and filled up for 1st time back in December. Thing is; is 140-170mA drain too much, or just at the limit? can't find reference numbers in previous posts. Tonight I got a jumpstart from buds after downing some hard shots while watching Mexico lose to Jamaica in soccer, rode home, and disconnected the neg. lead. (fkers are leaving tomorrow for Vallarta beach, to open some new oceanfront condos. !@#$#@%!). Thanks for all your feedback, hopefully we can all learn something "if we can't be an example, be a warning to others!" lol. -Careful you'all in eastern US with that storm. Here's a little video shot a few weeks ago to give ya some warmth, cam is mounted on a Kawa Z1k, we rode up to Mazamitla town at 2,800 meters ASL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bassie Posted February 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2013 Engine and lights on, idle; 13.4, and 15.8 anytime the RPM's are >3k. (riding and testing, wired the MMeter to the batt's charging harness). I'm very sorry, but 15.8 is too high. Looks to me your battery is fried (again). The max charge for a battery is around 14.4V, you are way above that. That means the battery is cooked, probably a cell broken and that is why it won't start. Either your controller is broken or you have a bad battery, one way or the other, if you reach far above 14.4V then you know it's wrong. And yes, such voltages do cook a battery. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery#Charging Please read the voltages part. And it doesn't matter if the battery is filled with gel or acid, they act the same. A bike battery is just smaller then a car battery, other then that they are exactly the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted February 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2013 Bad batteries happen. My last one lasted almost exactly a year. It came with a 2-year replacement warranty (Batteries+). I took it in, they tested it, and handed me a free replacement no questions asked. VFRs are hard on batteries especially in hot climates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRSuperfreak Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Interesting development; took the battery to the Honda dealer, blah yadah complain, etc. He agreed to a charge-test, I returned the next day, he then dropped it on a 400cc quad, and told me; 10 cranking tests of 10 seconds each, any good battery should be able to do that right? Right. And it did. 10 second-long cranks, x 10 times. I actually applied two more. The battery never quit, and the lights never dimmed. At the end the multimeter showed 12.70v. So I shut my mouth and took it home. Yeah a 400cc single doesn't have the same compression as a 750cc v4, still, this is a good way to test I believe. (??) Long story short; I'm looking for a new R-R. Any suggestions or differing opinions please do let me know! Thanks! HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 My favorite mod for the 3rd/4th gen R/R is to use one from a 98-99 VFR that has the MOSFET inside. This is the same tech as the R1 R/R but without the funky connectors....it's easy to adapt. You have to figure out the mounting yourself however as it is significantly larger than the OEM (and that is a good thing). Make sure the R/R you get is MOSFET...don't fall for "heavy duty" on some Ebay unit as you will chase and chase and still have issues. If you need I built a harness for adapting to the 98 VFR R/R that replaces all the wiring from the stator to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRSuperfreak Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 Ok just wanted to say thanks to everyone who replied! and add: 100 or so extra RPM at idle make a great difference!. yes I changed that and it got better. Yes the stator had to be redone, some kind of error at the ending wrap. Yes the same new battery is fine now, now that charging is at normal rates. Saludos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted August 20, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 20, 2013 Thanks for the update! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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