Lee Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 My original stem bearings have notched and I've had a set of All Balls bearings on the shelf ready for when this would occur. The part number is 22-1020 and all has gone well except the top bearing won't fall down the shaft to mate with the upper race. It's like the shaft is too thick or the bearing center opening is too small. Anyone else run into this? I shouldn't have to drive the top bearing onto the shaft like I did the lower bearing, if I understand correctly what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted June 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2012 To understand, you have the lower bearing on the triples, both races in the frame, and now you're putting the steering stem in the frame, but the top bearing won't drop on. Right? Are there any dings or marks on the stem? Did you try giving it a light tap to see if it would drop down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 You got the picture perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 No marks or dings and I tried using the stem nut to pull the bearing down onto the shaft but I didn't really want to get the bearing stuck on the upper shaft so I stopped and had to pull the bearing off the shaft. The Bearing number is 32005x12/26. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted June 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2012 My original stem bearings have notched and I've had a set of All Balls bearings on the shelf ready for when this would occur. The part number is 22-1020 and all has gone well except the top bearing won't fall down the shaft to mate with the upper race. It's like the shaft is too thick or the bearing center opening is too small. Anyone else run into this? I shouldn't have to drive the top bearing onto the shaft like I did the lower bearing, if I understand correctly what's going on. Yep, been there done that. It was an All Ball bearing set. Don't have the part number handy though. Mine's a 95. I had a hell of a time getting the original bearing off. Took me over 2 hours. And then getting the new one on was impossible. I finally gave up after ruining one set. I tried heating it with a hair dryer but it expanded enough that the needles fell out of the cage. I cut that one off with a Dremel. Bought another set and this time went to a shop where they pressed it on with a hydraulic press. Cost me 15 bucks iirc. But yeah, I think the shaft diameter was just ever too big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 I'm thinking that the upper bearing should not have to be "pressed on" and should slide over the upper tube. If it doesn't slide there's not way to adjust the bearing pressure properly. I just measure the sharft and it's 26 mm and the bearing is 25.98 mm. Maybe I'll break out the Dremel and make the bearing sleve a little bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted June 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2012 I'm thinking that the upper bearing should not have to be "pressed on" and should slide over the upper tube. If it doesn't slide there's not way to adjust the bearing pressure properly. I just measure the sharft and it's 26 mm and the bearing is 25.98 mm. Maybe I'll break out the Dremel and make the bearing sleve a little bigger. Oh, my mistake. I was talking about the lower bearing. You have to press that down the shaft to sit on the lower tee. I had no problem with the upper bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 I've run into this before. It's just a small burr or two on the inside of the race. I installed mine by tightening the top nuts, then taking apart, cleaning, and reassembling. It's really not a big deal and the fit is supposed to be tight! The bearing races don't move, the rollers do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 I've run into this before. It's just a small burr or two on the inside of the race. I installed mine by tightening the top nuts, then taking apart, cleaning, and reassembling. It's really not a big deal and the fit is supposed to be tight! The bearing races don't move, the rollers do. I really don't feel any "burrs" with my finger inside the bearing center or on the stem. I was considering forcing the bearing but the caliper measurements above showed the bearing to be a bit too tight. Maybe these chinese bearings are a bit off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Every manufacturer has tolerances they can use. It doesn't take much to make tight fit parts hang up on each other. While there is certainly a chance that your parts are bad(it happens...), I've installed 30+ sets of these and I'm thinking that what you have is something I've seen before. Try to fit the race again, make sure it's in line with the stem (stem in frame) if it doesn't go try putting the big nut/washer/dust cap part on and spinning it down by hand to seat it. Once it's down, tap on the top of the stem with a soft face mallet to pop the lower triple back out of the frame. Take the upper race out of the frame, and drop it on the lower triple in your hand, it should go on much easier. That's been my experience anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Every manufacturer has tolerances they can use. It doesn't take much to make tight fit parts hang up on each other. While there is certainly a chance that your parts are bad(it happens...), I've installed 30+ sets of these and I'm thinking that what you have is something I've seen before. Try to fit the race again, make sure it's in line with the stem (stem in frame) if it doesn't go try putting the big nut/washer/dust cap part on and spinning it down by hand to seat it. Once it's down, tap on the top of the stem with a soft face mallet to pop the lower triple back out of the frame. Take the upper race out of the frame, and drop it on the lower triple in your hand, it should go on much easier. That's been my experience anyway. The new races are fine and installed, it's just the upper tapered bearing that won't slide down the upper stem to mate with the upper race. I've completed the removal of the old ball bearings and races and installated the new upper and lower races, and installated the lower bearing and seal. Just can't get the upper bearing to slide down the stem past the upper threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 The Bearing number is 32005x12/26. A 32005 won't fit as it has an ID of 25mm and it should be 26mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 the upper tapered bearing that won't slide down the upper stem to mate with the upper race. That is the one I was referring to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 The Bearing number is 32005x12/26. A 32005 won't fit as it has an ID of 25mm and it should be 26mm. Here we may have a winner! I have an old All Balls kit that may have the wrong bearing. Guess I'll take this 25 mm bearing to a bearing shop and get the correct size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 The bearing should have the size 26x47x15 which is not a standard size bearing (low profile) so most bearing shop won't have it in stock. Have you measured the ID of your current bearing and the OD of the stearing stem? The x12/26 suffice may implicate that it has an ID of 26mm and 12mm as the height of the bearing. In that case you'll need to add a 3mm shim under the dust seal to make it work. A quick search showed that 32005 bearings are for special applications and come in more than one size ID. edit: checked my own notes and the bearing I installed had the numbers 32005/26 stamped in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Also, all Honda streetbikes since the late 1970's, with the exception of 4 models, have used the same bearings... Old or new they should be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 It shouldn't have any stiction at all.. should just drop down on the stem with a nice fit to it... I wouldn't want it pressed on as you say you will then have troubles getting the right torque... Get in touch with your supplier... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 It shouldn't have any stiction at all.. should just drop down on the stem with a nice fit to it... I wouldn't want it pressed on as you say you will then have troubles getting the right torque... Get in touch with your supplier... Exactly. I've ordered another bearing and hopfully it'll fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Can I have the old one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Can I have the old one? Sure, why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 I finally got the whole thing put back together. Maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to ride it. I went ahead and tapped the upper bearing onto the stem with a hammer and punch and once the bearing got moving it moved easily down to the upper race. Just had to get it started. I then tightened the bearings, loosened them, and then tightened them again to where they stiffened and then back off a bit. With the fork tubes and tire installed all feels good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Good to hear. You didn't torque the roller bearings to Honda specs though, did you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Excellent. You installed the one from teh all balls kit or the one you ordered recently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Good to hear. You didn't torque the roller bearings to Honda specs though, did you? correct. Honda's torque is for ball bearing and not roller bearings. I did it by "feel". "I then tightened the bearings, loosened them, and then tightened them again to where they stiffened and then back off a bit". I'm betting that I'll have to adjust them a bit after I put some miles on the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Excellent. You installed the one from teh all balls kit or the one you ordered recently? Yes, I used the "All Balls" kit, the old kit I've had on the shelf for countless years. I also have a new kit in hand that I did not use, and that will sit on the shelf for years like the last set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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