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4th gen Coil on Plug mod (split thread)


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Factory coils, at least on a 3rd gen (which is my entire scope of knowledge on any vfr, my gen 4 frame i bought as just a frame, nothing else) take up alot of space and make it difficult to relocate for fairings. I would imagine it would be very difficult to hide em on a fightered bike. Cop > factory imho.

Edit: this post was full of spelling fail.

Edited by flyguyeddy
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  • 2 weeks later...
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same here...

spose i should pull my finger out n try em......

edit..

As expected... no fit... fan is in the way....

Remove the fan??? i dont see any fans on the hrc manual for the rc30 rads..

might b ok with an electric water pump keeping things moving when stationary?

Trim the fan blades? trim the fan surround also?

Any smaller cops? these are just over 3cm proud of the head.

Would like to do a dyno run with and without the snorkel.

I have my front coils here in place of the snorkel at the moment.

At least with the rear coils gone i can slip my battery in their space.

Its a start

Edited by kgsmotorcycles
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With cop in and rad pulled back down sitting on the rim of fan, it is 25mm from the bolt hole to the fixing support arm on the bottom left of rad. OK new fixing bracket anyway. The fan blades still hit the cop by about 10m first so will want a trim of at least 25mm as well? Not sure if am happy about wheel clearance now either.

Am thinking either go with standard coils hidden up front...

or

Remove fan.. not like am going to be touring anytime soon.. saves cutting shit up..should leave me with space for cops then..am sure fan only ever came on in the hottest of weather and when in built up traffic for long periods and combos of both..warm yes, traffic no. Less bodywork means better air flow...

hmmmmm perfect excuse to get on with that water pump

who dares trim some fan tips, make a longer rad block arm.. maybe trim some more off the front fender? Its a close call with rad sitting forward so....

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why not?

you always have your expansion tank to tell you how hot things are.. if it starts to steam and boil.. stop... simple.

wont happen unless in mostly town riding conditions.

Thing is you have to be on the case all the time. Take your eye off the ball and things can get hot ...only if you leave your engine running unattended or going nowhere.

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Let's see if you get some good spark first and then we can figure out what to do about the rest of the affected stuff.

By the time I'm done with my 4th gen, it will have all sorts of crazy revisions done to it.

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Yes, most important is the decent spark.... Is there another solution other than fan removal to fit the front COPs?

Considering removal of the plastic guard between carbs and frame, so carbs hide behind lighter rad only.

Then add the snorkel again, if if gives better power...? Only the dyno will tell there. But the option is there again unlike before where i had 2 coils in the snorkels place..

Soon as loom turns up only time will tell if i have to revert to standard coils. :huh:

Even when i do plug her in this week i still have a clutch to add then the oil, then tinker the main loom before testing.

Especially checking the fuel reserve light as it was temperamental before. Essential as i intend to run the bike in endurance races.

Maybe some1 else will jump in before me with them running?

So far things are looking surprisingly good. (except no window on my clutch :tour: )

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Could maybe sub in a smaller fan at least?

I am already having to tuck the rad in as far as possible to allow wheel clearance with my short forks.

Is there room in front of the radiator for a pusher fan, reverse polarity and the fan will turn opposite direction? Some fans will do that in cars.

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Could maybe sub in a smaller fan at least?

I am already having to tuck the rad in as far as possible to allow wheel clearance with my short forks.

Is there room in front of the radiator for a pusher fan, reverse polarity and the fan will turn opposite direction? Some fans will do that in cars.

You would need a different fan blade as well.

I wouldn't do it for two reasons:

- cosmetics (will probably look horrible)

- fan motor will be very exposed to elements

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  • 2 weeks later...

900rr is tci. All coils share a positive switched feed and ignition module grounds the coils. As does almost all honda street bikes (with the exception of the vtr1000 and the rvt1000, as stated earlier, which are cdi).

If this is in fact the case, shouldn't this mean this mod is possible on the VFR, and should be fairly easy???

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I found his thread, which sheds some light on the effects of lower impedance/higher current:

http://www.rrzone.co...ires-WHOOO-HOOO!

And I fired off this email to Accel's tech help desk.

Hello, I am interested in upgrading my bike's ignition system. I have previously installed your products on another of my Honda bikes.

I am unsure if any of your products fit my 1996 VFR750F application. This bike has a 4 cylinder engine, and it uses 4 ignition coils which have a primary resistance of 3.2 ohms.

Please tell me which of your coil products would fit my needs.

Thank you,

Did you ever get a response from Accel or Dynatek, Dynojet and Bazzaz? I'm still wanting to do this mod, but have to replace my ECU, as it died at Spa last Monday, and that's my priority right now...While troubleshooting to find the culprit of my no-spark issue, we discovered that the pulse generator was only sending .8v to the ECU. Since my ECU is dead, I wasn't able to find out what the output voltage was supposed to be.

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