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R/R warning


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  • Member Contributer

I have and can recommend the brand/type Optimate.

I have no shares/commercial interest in the company....

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Thanks guys. I borrowed a 12v/2amp charger and charged both of my battery last night. I'll be doing the voltage check today on the presumably dead RR

Sent from my handheld-sending-thing...

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Someone mentioned to install a Battery Tender. I have three Tenders. I used two on my motorhome, one for the coach batteries, one form the chassis battery, and my third Tender is on my project VFR. My daily bike is getting a voltmeter, however I weekly check my daily ride battery. I check it before it gets cranked, tested @ idle, and again @ 3-5 K. I periodically log in my readings. I feel if at rest the voltage is good, then with my new battery things are holding, and for safety I check @ run condition. I will do this until I install volt meters on both bikes. I hope to get voltmeters installed on both bikes within a month. I've involved with too many projects, otherwise I'd already have meters on my bikes. Once I get my meters installed, I'll post with photos the results.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Earlier I mentioned my thoughts on having a dash mount volt meter. Today my two voltmeters arrived. They only cost $5.00 each! These meters should work very nicely for our applications. Making a nice installation can easily be done. I've attached a photo with a link as to where they can be bought. The link will open up giving detailed specifications.

http://www.mpja.com/05-07-13.asp?r=364614&s=13

post-22834-0-20773700-1368830495.jpg

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I bought my on ebay for $5 each also. Looks about like yours, but already has the plastic housing on it.

Just be mindful of where you mount them, and whether or not water/rain ever gets in that area.

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  • 2 months later...

I bought a rm r/r for my second gen.worked for a week then started cranking 19 dc volts into my electrical system.battery boiled and leaked out

Went to honda and paid big bucks but have never had any problem with oem rr

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  • 1 year later...
  • Member Contributer

For those of you who are keeping track at home . . . show of hands? That's nobody. I've been through 2 Rick's RR's, each one lasting about 1 year or 10k miles, give or take. At $120ish a piece, I'm less than excited when the year is up.

In the name of SCIENCE (and not just because I'm cheap), I decided to see what happens when I install a $36 shipped RR from Caltrix. Callix. Celtrix. Something like that. A month in, a rock solid 14.3V. So time will tell.

For those still on the fence with a 3rd, 4th, 5th gen . . . my onboard voltmeter has been money! It has saved me twice. Once on the way to Neptune's Net for lunch. I was fortunate enough to not have to work on my bike in the parting lot. The second time, My RR fried in the Valley heat, and the tenths of volts were slipping away. She still ran fine, but I knew what the issue was before I got stranded. Always a plus!

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^^^ I'm kinda at - for any R/R replacement, the goto is the Shindengen FH020aa. Purchase at www.roadstercycle.com

No Ricks,Caltrix, Electrosport, etc.....

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Thanks for the update. It's a little discouraging since I just installed a VFRness and a Rick's R/R in my 4th gen.

I'd rather not add clutter to the VFR's nice console, but I do have an unused powerlet outlet in the left fairing... maybe I'll jimmy up a meter for it.

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  • Member Contributer

"I'd rather not add clutter to the VFR's nice console"

Signal Dynamics LED volt meter

post-8974-0-23185600-1413182000.jpg

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Thanks for the tip on the Signal Dynamics. Definitely less cluttered.

I woke up with an interesting idea... could use an analog-to-digital converter with a cheap controller to make a bluetooth/wifi voltmeter. Then I could have my phone display the voltage readout, or have the bike email me when the voltage starts to slip. :)

It's definitely a bit of a DIY project; maybe something to play with once the season ends. Would also need a way to get clean power to it.

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  • Member Contributer

Over on the Dutch VFR forum there is a member who builds a led type voltmeter that will only light up when the voltage it outside the acceptable range..

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  • Member Contributer

Thanks for the tip on the Signal Dynamics. Definitely less cluttered.

I woke up with an interesting idea... could use an analog-to-digital converter with a cheap controller to make a bluetooth/wifi voltmeter. Then I could have my phone display the voltage readout, or have the bike email me when the voltage starts to slip. :)

It's definitely a bit of a DIY project; maybe something to play with once the season ends. Would also need a way to get clean power to it.

Wow, that's an interesting idea. Post up a build thread once you get going.

the Signal Dynamics set-up is by far the best voltage monitor i've seen.

The thing about the Signal Dynamics LED is that the range of green is way too wide - 15.1 - 12.9 volts. So you could be running all day or all vacation in the green and still end up stranded by the side of the road. With a digital, you can watch the trend of the health of the system and get a handle on preempting a problem if something pops up. Low 13s and 12.9 volts consistantly will get you stranded. Any Amber reading other than idle - chances are your hosed.

SignalDynamicsLED2.jpg

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I woke up with an interesting idea... could use an analog-to-digital converter with a cheap controller to make a bluetooth/wifi voltmeter. Then I could have my phone display the voltage readout, or have the bike email me when the voltage starts to slip. :)

Wow, that's an interesting idea. Post up a build thread once you get going.

I will if I do. I don't know if it would be that interesting from a pictures viewpoint, since most of the work is writing software.

These controllers are great for hobbyist projects... they're like electronic lego blocks. Here's all the physical wiring needed to build a simple programmable voltmeter.

adruino-sketch.png

That's about $25 in parts. You wouldn't want to mount it in a bike like that; the mighty V4 rumble would shake it apart. :) So there's a little more work to get it properly soldered and mounted in a case.

The remaining problem is that it can read voltage, but doesn't have a way to tell you what it is (unless you want to mount a laptop on your tank). A simple solution would be to wire in a speaker or a light. On a VFR, you might connect it to something like your fuel light... program it so that the light is off when everything is fine, on when your fuel is low, blinks slowly below 13.5V and blinks fast below 13V.

My thinking was to add a wireless module to it (~$7) so that it could talk to a phone via bluetooth. This lets you do things like displaying graphs and sending emails. But now you have to write a little app for the phone that can talk to it over bluetooth.

How hard this seems will probably depend on your background. I write software for a living, and am a 'can turn a wrench' guy when it comes to electronics. But I sweat over my Clymer manual a long time before bleeding a clutch. :)

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I know its a personal preference thing, but I like numbers on my voltmeter. My brother has an SD that he really likes, but I'm not sold on it. The last time my RR was failing, I was watching it go from 13.8 to 13.4V, dropping .1V every 2 minutes or so. Still within "green" range, but obviously not functioning correctly. So in the comfort of my own garage, I swapped it out with a known good, and 14.4 just like she should be.

Long story short, I like knowing I am going to be f'ed, rather than I am f'ed.

I tried to mount my Vmeter as cleanly as possible, but glare can sometimes be an issue. There was a Honda Marine dial gauge that looked uber-slick (white background and all for you 4th geners out there) that I found after I already installed mine.

post-24428-0-78748000-1413299300.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

I mounted a small CPU cooling fan on top of my voltage rectifier. I have no photos, but if anyone is really interested later I will remove the aft fairings for photos. Right now I'm recovering from surgery, so no wrenching.

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