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5th gen suspension


keny

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This has proberly been discussed before, but I cand seem to find it.

I would like my 5th gen turn in a bit faster than it does now.

I did make my former VFR, a-87 750f, so by adding preload and riseig the fork legs 17mm. On the 5tg gen you can shim the upper shock mount betwen the frame (better for suspension workability than adding preload), I wounder how mutch you have shimmed it, and how mutch does it effect. I have curerrently fork legs 4mm rised, was so when I buoght bike.

And if anyone can give the link to how to switch F3 interials in the 5th gen forks, I would be werry glad :wheel:

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Hi,

I've been digging around for those threads with no luck yet!

You can achieve quicker turn-in by either raising the rear or dropping the front end, if you don't have inseam issues(short legs) I suggest you add a 5 mm spacer between the frame & the top of the rear shock mount as a start. This provides better Turn-In and adds ground clearance to. Then you can play with fork tube height, I think 39mm is stock and I think you mentioned you had already raised the tubes 4mm. You can easily go up to 10mm or more w/o issue.

HS did a F3 fork internal swap on his 5th gen but I can't find that thread either. It's a common mod though. :fing02:

BR

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I think 39mm is stock and I think you mentioned you had already raised the tubes 4mm. You can easily go up to 10mm or more w/o issue.

HS did a F3 fork internal swap on his 5th gen but I can't find that thread either. It's a common mod though. :fing02:

Kev, Keny

I'm 5mm up in the rear (using an adjustable Penske), and I'm at 49mm of fork height. But when I tried raising the forks a little higher, I got some headshake :pissed: , so I returned to 49. Of course, all bikes are a little different and higher than 49 might work for someone else. I'm just sayin'....approach heights over 49mm "gently". These heights include the fork cap's flat surface, not just the top of the tube (where the cap and tube meet).

Also...I've seen differing OEM data calling for 39mm or 44mm. So, it's anyboy's guess as to what is "really, really right". :fing02:

I did the F3 internals, installing Racetech comp and rebound valves. I used the compresssion shim stack c33 instead of the "race recommended" stack c35, because Racetech points out that their basic settings are pretty stiff. This provides a slightly nicer ride but with good control. Rebound stack was as recommended for the spring used....in my case it was a .95 spring using the r18 stack.

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I think 39mm is stock and I think you mentioned you had already raised the tubes 4mm. You can easily go up to 10mm or more w/o issue.

HS did a F3 fork internal swap on his 5th gen but I can't find that thread either. It's a common mod though. :fing02:

Kev, Keny

I'm 5mm up in the rear (using an adjustable Penske), and I'm at 49mm of fork height. But when I tried raising the forks a little higher, I got some headshake :pissed: , so I returned to 49. Of course, all bikes are a little different and higher than 49 might work for someone else. I'm just sayin'....approach heights over 49mm "gently". These heights include the fork cap's flat surface, not just the top of the tube (where the cap and tube meet).

Also...I've seen differing OEM data calling for 39mm or 44mm. So, it's anyboy's guess as to what is "really, really right". :fing02:

I did the F3 internals, installing Racetech comp and rebound valves. I used the compresssion shim stack c33 instead of the "race recommended" stack c35, because Racetech points out that their basic settings are pretty stiff. This provides a slightly nicer ride but with good control. Rebound stack was as recommended for the spring used....in my case it was a .95 spring using the r18 stack.

Stock tube height in the triples from the factory on 5th gen bkes was 39mm however honda updated their service manuals to change that height to 41mm. I know this because when I bought my manual from the honda dealership last year it came with a few additional pages to cover up the old ones and this was one of them.

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Stock tube height in the triples from the factory on 5th gen bkes was 39mm however honda updated their service manuals to change that height to 41mm. I know this because when I bought my manual from the honda dealership last year it came with a few additional pages to cover up the old ones and this was one of them.

Same as the 6th gen then at 41mm! :fing02:

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I did the F3 internals, installing Racetech comp and rebound valves. I used the compresssion shim stack c33 instead of the "race recommended" stack c35, because Racetech points out that their basic settings are pretty stiff. This provides a slightly nicer ride but with good control. Rebound stack was as recommended for the spring used....in my case it was a .95 spring using the r18 stack.

Thanks. Only consern is the Racetech parts are hard to get ower here...

From what I see the comp side valve is same (base) on the F3 and 800Fi, but the rebound is different. So thet mean I can swamp the current comp valve to the F3 interial 8to remain setting, as I like it) but the rebund side is the tricky one...

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personnaly I would try a 3mm shim on the rear shock first, see how that feels.

Maby wise, even my old -87 was close to nervus, and I liked it.

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personnaly I would try a 3mm shim on the rear shock first, see how that feels.

Maby wise, even my old -87 was close to nervus, and I liked it.

Good call, put the fork tubes at stock and try a 3-5mm rear shim to start off with. :fing02:

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On my 5th Gen a 3mm shim was all I could fit and use the main stand, although there is more clearance under the rear tire if the front forks are raised.

You can figure the amount you can raise the rear and use the stand by measuring current clearance under rear tire when bike is on stand. Then deduct a few mm from the clearance to accommodate tire wear assuming some point later you will fit a new tire w/ more rubber on, then divide the avaialble tire-ground clearance by 3 (the linkage multiplier) to see how much you can shim the rear. Consider factoring in extra bit of under-tire clearance because parking surfaces are not always ruler-edge flat.

Also, raising the rear too much and the bike starts to lean over too far on its side stand - again lowering the front triple crowns drops the bike to offset this effect.

Tony

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  • 1 month later...

I found one thing that its in the way to rise my tail mor that a fev mm, the catalytic conventer! sad.gif

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I found one thing that its in the way to rise my tail mor that a fev mm, the catalytic conventer! sad.gif

Your DogBone is hitting the Cat Converter!

Try removing the shims on the upper shock mount, and then install a DogBone from a 4th gen, 1994-1997.

It is shorter than the 5th gen DogBone and will raise the rear quite a bit, without interfering with your Cat.

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I found one thing that its in the way to rise my tail mor that a fev mm, the catalytic conventer! sad.gif

Your DogBone is hitting the Cat Converter!

Try removing the shims on the upper shock mount, and then install a DogBone from a 4th gen, 1994-1997.

It is shorter than the 5th gen DogBone and will raise the rear quite a bit, without interfering with your Cat.

Thanks, just wounder how will it effect the rear suspension action?

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  • Member Contributer

I found one thing that its in the way to rise my tail mor that a fev mm, the catalytic conventer! sad.gif

Your DogBone is hitting the Cat Converter!

Try removing the shims on the upper shock mount, and then install a DogBone from a 4th gen, 1994-1997.

It is shorter than the 5th gen DogBone and will raise the rear quite a bit, without interfering with your Cat.

Thanks, just wounder how will it effect the rear suspension action?

The suspension action is normal but it will raise the tail somewhat dramatically. I think the linkage ratio is 3:1? And the 4G dogbone is 10mm shorter, so you will get a 30mm rise, ~ 1.2".

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I was running a spacer of just over 5mm on my rear shock before I fitted the Elka, which is now running as much ride height as I can get before the bottom shock mount hits the catcon. When I had the spacer fitted, I was also running the fork tubes fairly high in the triple clamps, and had no problems (also gave me back some clearance when the bike was on the centrestand.

When I first fitted the Avon Storms, I no longer really needed the quicker turn in, as I got that from the tires. This was also just after the Elka was fitted, so between them (and no front fork springs) the bike handled very well.

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