Guest LJVFR Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Sitting on my beer cooler last night and staring at my bike, :goofy: I got to looking at my rear exhaust headers. I notice where they come out of the rear cylinder heads, there is quite a bit of rust on them. Has anyone removed the system and sanded and repainted the headers? Is there a write-up somewhere I haven't seen yet? After reading so much about how the 98 headers are sought after so much, I thought I might do some TLC on them. Suggestions and opinions are much appreciated. :beer: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted January 6, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2010 When I was first discovered that 5gen pipes would fit on the vtec, I painted the test set I bought off ebay. I did everything by the book; took off the original paint and rust down to clean bare metal, rinsed/cleaned with paint thinner, used rubber gloves to avoid thumb prints/skin oils, making jigs to support everything in the air, let them air cure, several motor warmups for additional curing before riding, etc. That's a lot of prep. time and effort. This is the best pic I have handy of the header pipes after painting. They looked great but within weeks the high temp header paint began to flake off at the bends and leading edges. Plus it's a lot of work to pull the exhaust off the bike (especially the rear head tubes) and reinstalling by yourself without scratching the new paint is no joy either. If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't. I'd send them out to jet-hot coat or competitor for a high-temp coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :fing02: Jet-Hot is the way to go. Proper surface prep is key. I've heard of some folks getting rust bleeding through the Jet-Hot coating over time and in my opinion, it's due to inadequate surface prep. I sandblasted my own headers in the cabinet here at work, and I was absolutely fastidious about getting every square millimeter down to white metal before I took them in to be Jet coated. The results are superb and have been for several years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 :rolleyes: Indeed, no header paint in the world will last more than a week or two on those pipes. I'm a huge fan of JetHot, but even that has shown some of the rust bleed-through that veefer mentioned. And on my RC, the rear pipe went dull very quickly due to the vicious heat and lack of airflow when not moving. Dang! Anyway, your choices are clear: Do nothing or go with JetHot. Plan for a total outlay of about $270 or so, considering shipping and new gaskets. And there are LOTS of JetHot threads and pictures here. :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Ok, thanks guys. Will look into the JetHot option. One more question is regarding the computer on my bike: The bike runs fine, but I see there are downloads in the download area regarding dynojet and some which have been custom made. I noticed Trace had one, and something about staintune european model people are liking. Is this a feature I can use and is it as simple as downloading and adding to my own bike? Do I need a special adapter from a lap top to the bike? Thanks again. Lance :beer: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You have a Power Commander, yes? If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You have a Power Commander, yes? If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander. No, I don't have a Power Commander. My bike is stock except for the Two Brothers exhaust. My air filter is stock as well. Is there any software that I can download for fueling without having the chip or programmer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer fastrc46 Posted January 6, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2010 Jet-Hot ?? Yeah... Right... Ok... jet-hot round 2 003.jpg Jet-Hot sucks!!! This was after the second attempt... Don't waste your money. You're better off with a stainless Motad or something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Sandblasting is the only way to go. Using sandpaper actually makes the surface too smooth for the paint to bond to properly. I went up to Northern Hydraulics, got one of their cheapo models where it sprays crap every where. It take about 2 containers of aluminum oxide to do an entire set of '98 headers correctly. I then shot them with Techline Coatings "Cil Gen". Cil Gen is an air dry ceramic coating. I haven't put them on the bike yet, but I can tell you from screwing up my first Cil Gen job and having to reblast the headers, the stuff is tough. One thing I'm learning from personal experience. Every manufacturer will tell you their paint completely dries in 4 hrs, 24 hrs, blah, blah, blah. Truth is, paint (of every kind I've ever messed with) really and truly doesn't dry close to 100% for about a month or so. That includes header paint, house paint, body paint, you name it. Cil Gen is not cheap and it has a kick to it that will scare the crap out of you. When they say a well ventilated space, they mean a well ventilated space. The first time I shot my headers I did it in the basement with the doors open. Just about killed me. The next time I shot them outside. The headers also have to be all but antiseptic when you paint them. I blast mine, then wash them in a new, clean mortar mixing tub you get at Home Depot for $3.97. I use a gallon of lacquer thinner and wearing heavy rubber gloves the entire time. Slosh the lacquer thinner around, use a clean lint free rag to wipe them down. I spray the pipes as soon as the lacquer thinner dries. I try to leave a minimum window of time where the headers are in a bare metal state. Remember the first microscopic bit of rust that forms is not visible with the naked eye. And don't even think about trying to paint unless it's about 60°F or above. Here's a link to TechLine Coatings Cil Gen: http://www.techlinec...em-coatings.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You have a Power Commander, yes? If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander. No, I don't have a Power Commander. My bike is stock except for the Two Brothers exhaust. My air filter is stock as well. Is there any software that I can download for fueling without having the chip or programmer? The factory ECU is non-adjustable. If you want to fiddle with fueling, you need a Power Commander or equivalent, like the Techlusion TFI box, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Jet-Hot ?? Yeah... Right... Ok... jet-hot round 2 003.jpg Jet-Hot sucks!!! This was after the second attempt... Don't waste your money. You're better off with a stainless Motad or something similar. Hmmm, mine still looks great. Of course, I was the one responsible for the sandblasting, so as they say, if you want something done right....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You have a Power Commander, yes? If so, you need a cable to attach the power commander to your computer and load the new map from the computer to the Power Commander. No, I don't have a Power Commander. My bike is stock except for the Two Brothers exhaust. My air filter is stock as well. Is there any software that I can download for fueling without having the chip or programmer? The factory ECU is non-adjustable. If you want to fiddle with fueling, you need a Power Commander or equivalent, like the Techlusion TFI box, etc. Thanks for the replies and all the help everyone. Much appreciated. Now if only I can find a 5th gen rear cowl I will be in business. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Thanks for the replies and all the help everyone. Much appreciated. Now if only I can find a 5th gen rear cowl I will be in business. :rolleyes: You mean the large rear cowl, or just the solo seat cover? Try this for starters: http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=vfr800+seat+cowl+98&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=vfr800+seat+cowl&_osacat=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Thanks for the replies and all the help everyone. Much appreciated. Now if only I can find a 5th gen rear cowl I will be in business. :fing02: You mean the large rear cowl, or just the solo seat cover? Try this for starters: http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=vfr800+seat+cowl+98&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=vfr800+seat+cowl&_osacat=0 Sorry, ya just the solo seat cover. Thanks for the link, now to find one that is already red. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Sorry, ya just the solo seat cover. Thanks for the link, now to find one that is already red. :rolleyes: Try a WTB ad in the classifieds here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showforum=83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 When I was first discovered that 5gen pipes would fit on the vtec, I painted the test set I bought off ebay. I did everything by the book; took off the original paint and rust down to clean bare metal, rinsed/cleaned with paint thinner, used rubber gloves to avoid thumb prints/skin oils, making jigs to support everything in the air, let them air cure, several motor warmups for additional curing before riding, etc. That's a lot of prep. time and effort. This is the best pic I have handy of the header pipes after painting. They looked great but within weeks the high temp header paint began to flake off at the bends and leading edges. Plus it's a lot of work to pull the exhaust off the bike (especially the rear head tubes) and reinstalling by yourself without scratching the new paint is no joy either. If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't. I'd send them out to jet-hot coat or competitor for a high-temp coating. Foto: You always have some of the best looking bikes on this site. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer fastrc46 Posted January 6, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2010 Jet-Hot ?? Yeah... Right... Ok... jet-hot round 2 003.jpg Jet-Hot sucks!!! This was after the second attempt... Don't waste your money. You're better off with a stainless Motad or something similar. Hmmm, mine still looks great. Of course, I was the one responsible for the sandblasting, so as they say, if you want something done right....... I also blasted my own, with glass bead. Trust me... It was very clean when it was sent in... Both times. What ever the coating is, it's very porus and as soon as it gets wet the rust starts to bleed through. What finish did you get on yours? Perhaps it's different. At any rate. I was stung... Twice!! I stand by what I said before... Junk!! Don't waste your time or money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I also blasted my own, with glass bead. Trust me... It was very clean when it was sent in... Both times. What ever the coating is, it's very porus and as soon as it gets wet the rust starts to bleed through. What finish did you get on yours? Perhaps it's different. At any rate. I was stung... Twice!! I stand by what I said before... Junk!! Don't waste your time or money... I got the satin silver, same as yours. I didn't use "Jet-Hot" brand, it was a local powdercoating shop in Edmonton that also does high-temp ceramic coatings. Mine look dingy from road grime, chain lube and whatnot, but certainly no rust! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted January 7, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2010 I did mine for around $40. It's a sprayable ceramic coating. Got mine from Columbia coatings. I chose the chrome but there are other choices. They say you can get it really shiny in a tumbler but I just used a buffing wheel. It dries chalky but it will buff out. Mine is more of a satin aluminum look which I prefer to chrome but I suppose you could get it to be mirror like. This from their website: * Degrease Part Before Sandblasting! DO NOT BLAST PART WITH GREASE OR OIL ON IT * Sandblast with Black Oxide or Aluminum Oxide. DO NOT USE GLASS BEAD (leaves silicate contaminates) * Blow off excess blasting dust with Clean Dry Air * Preheat part at 400 Degrees for 30 Minutes to eliminate any contaminates missed by sandblasting. * Remove Part from Oven and inspect for defects such as "oil bleed out." Handle only with clean gloves. * Apply ceramic coating with an airbrush or detail touch up gun or similar equipment, with fine spray pattern. * This is a solvent based coating. Spray pressure recommended at 35 to 40 psi!!! * Proper thickness is normally achieved with one wet, solid colored coat. * Can Air Dry or Partially Cure at 500 Degrees!!! Full Cure at 750 Degrees for 1 Hour or when Headers are Installed On Vehicle Allowing Heat From Engine To Cure For Approximately 1 Hour. A standard kitchen oven may be used to partial cure. * SHOULD NOT BE CURED IN ANY OVEN COMING IN CONTACT WITH FOOD. * This product has a High Temperature Rating of 2000 Degrees. They say once cured, it's good to 2000 degrees. We'll see, I haven't put any running time on it yet but have heard some positive thoughts on the product. Oven=free, coating=$40. Home made oven extension. Header. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I did mine for around $40. It's a sprayable ceramic coating. Got mine from Columbia coatings. I chose the chrome but there are other choices. They say you can get it really shiny in a tumbler but I just used a buffing wheel. It dries chalky but it will buff out. Mine is more of a satin aluminum look which I prefer to chrome but I suppose you could get it to be mirror like. Can't wait to see you put it to use Kel!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Here's another twist to this topic: Nickel Plating. I did the Yoshimora slipons on my '86 VFR750 and they looked great! Drilled the rivets for the aluminum collars that formed the front end of the mufflers, removed them and had the steel piping dipped, stripped and Nickel Plated. Nickel is very shiny, but not as shiny as chrome. And after several heat cycles, they take on a nice golden hue, but they don't seem to "blue" like chrome does. AND, nickel is very corrosion resistant. :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBenny Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 When I was first discovered that 5gen pipes would fit on the vtec, I painted the test set I bought off ebay. I did everything by the book; took off the original paint and rust down to clean bare metal, rinsed/cleaned with paint thinner, used rubber gloves to avoid thumb prints/skin oils, making jigs to support everything in the air, let them air cure, several motor warmups for additional curing before riding, etc. That's a lot of prep. time and effort. This is the best pic I have handy of the header pipes after painting. They looked great but within weeks the high temp header paint began to flake off at the bends and leading edges. Plus it's a lot of work to pull the exhaust off the bike (especially the rear head tubes) and reinstalling by yourself without scratching the new paint is no joy either. If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't. I'd send them out to jet-hot coat or competitor for a high-temp coating. Thats one hella nice looking bike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rivcyko Posted January 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted January 17, 2010 Sandblast and ceramic. (Just my .02). Did it on my tail. Headders are gonna get hotter,...but as of yet, all is well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAstridBears Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 FotoMoto - Ur bike looks sweet. Never like white but dag, looks tuff! Anyone ever tried the POR15 Products? They make POR20 for exhaust. Im using the POR15 on my engine, for detailing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Like FotoMoto, I too have tried painting headers. Like the cast-iron exhaust manifolds on my Ford Ranger. I had them off to re-do all the top end gaskets on the engine, and thougt I would spruce them up, as well as painting the valve covers. I sandblasted the manifolds myself, over and over again, down to perfect white metal, hung them and sprayed with VHT silver header paint inside a warm shop. Put on the recommended number of coats as per instructions, waited the proper time inbetween coats, let them dry until perfectly dry, much much longer then 24 hours, IIRC. I put them in the oven afterwards at the correct temp, for the recommended time, etc, etc, etc. Mounted them on the truck, and within two weeks, it was peel city. CRAP! Never again. These are my bike headers, which I also sandblasted myself, again down to perfect white metal, then had them ceramic coated: They still look good. That`s road dirt and chain crud on the headers in the picture below, not rust: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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