Guest perimund Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 Installed VFRness + new R/R (I already have a new stator) today. Tightwad: 1A+ tnx dude! - I hope that is not wrong i turned R/R uPside dOWN. idle 13,7, from 2000-6000 14,7V constant. If U like your bike go for VFRness! Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRedleg Posted April 11, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11, 2009 Another satisfied customer here. The R/R on my 99 was dying and Tightwad walked me through the diagnosis. Ordered a new R/R and harness from him, he shipped promptly, and then answered my questions on the install. I can't say thanks enough for all the help. If you even THINK you might need/want an upgrade/replacement, check with Tightwad first! :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Thanks all for the kind words! For those who are interested, based on user feedback I have shortened the 12 gauge wires another 2 inches to try to save space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Gregg Posted April 11, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11, 2009 Another satisfied customer here. The R/R on my 99 was dying and Tightwad walked me through the diagnosis. Ordered a new R/R and harness from him, he shipped promptly, and then answered my questions on the install.I can't say thanks enough for all the help. If you even THINK you might need/want an upgrade/replacement, check with Tightwad first! :biggrin: Seriously +1 to this! I ordered the VFRness and his fuse panel about a week ago. I haven't had any issues with the R/R, but I know it's a problem area...I had seen the posts about adding a wire here and there, and I have technical ability to do it myself...but with all the kind words Tightwad has received over this was enough for me to just pay him for the harness....and it was worth every penny....in time saved and eased of installation. I had a couple of questions and Tightwad emailed me right back with concise easy to follow answers.... if (fingers crossed) my R/R ever goes...I know I will be going to Tightwad for the new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V44me Posted May 12, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted May 12, 2009 +1 on the satisfied customer. Kudo's Tightwad. Very impressed with the quality of the wiring harness, looks like factory wiring(only better). Same charging improvent as reported by others...solid 14.1v-14.3v from 2200 to 7500 RPM's with high beams + flashers on. Before the VFRness...14v at idle...13.3 at 7000 RPM's with low beams only. If you don't have one, get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChrisW Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) NOW TAKING ALL ORDERS 1998-2007!!!After reading thread upon thread, and fix upon fix, as well as doing my own R/R sensor wire fix, I have decided to pursue producing an after market wiring harness. I am tossing around a couple ideas, and could use some target audience input. Tightwad, I hope you get f'ing rich off this stuff. Over the years I've replaced 2 wiring harnesses, every sensor, two batteries, two stators, I don't know how many RR's, etc, etc, etc, before spending the short money on this thing. Not an issue since. I probably dropped a couple grand fixing Honda's crap electrics before I came across this thing. Suddenly, after 4 years of dicking around with this thing between breakdowns while i put miles on an FJR I shouldn't have needed to buy, at 90K miles the VFR has regained reliable status. If we ever meet, I'll probably need to give you a hug, and want to kiss a little bit or something. :blink: Edited July 11, 2009 by ChrisW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 NOW TAKING ALL ORDERS 1998-2007!!!After reading thread upon thread, and fix upon fix, as well as doing my own R/R sensor wire fix, I have decided to pursue producing an after market wiring harness. I am tossing around a couple ideas, and could use some target audience input. Tightwad, I hope you get f'ing rich off this stuff. Over the years I've replaced 2 wiring harnesses, every sensor, two batteries, two stators, I don't know how many RR's, etc, etc, etc, before spending the short money on this thing. Not an issue since. I probably dropped a couple grand fixing Honda's crap electrics before I came across this thing. Suddenly, after 4 years of dicking around with this thing between breakdowns while i put miles on an FJR I shouldn't have needed to buy, at 90K miles the VFR has regained reliable status. If we ever meet, I'll probably need to give you a hug, and want to kiss a little bit or something. :blink: I would be happy just shaking your hand I believe....cash donations also accepted :huh: I am glad to have helped, I find pleasure in it, even if it won't make me rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kblackburn Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Just joined vfrd and found this thread,what a bonus. This is my second vfr750fv, which I bought 2 weeks ago, last owner replaced the battery and r/r, but after stripping the bike to go through end to end, as I do when I buy a new bike, I found the plug to the r/r has a burnt terminal, on removal from the unit, I can see some burning to the terminal, only very light, question is, will I have to replace this, or can I clean up the pin. I have in the past, on my own bikes and my son's removed the connector which joins the alternator to the loom and to the r/r and hard wired it. The fv(97) has 5 wires 3 yellow 1 red 1 green. I do like the idea of the loom ( plug and play)type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 Just joined vfrd and found this thread,what a bonus. This is my second vfr750fv, which I bought 2 weeks ago, last owner replaced the battery and r/r, but after stripping the bike to go through end to end, as I do when I buy a new bike, I found the plug to the r/r has a burnt terminal, on removal from the unit, I can see some burning to the terminal, only very light, question is, will I have to replace this, or can I clean up the pin. I have in the past, on my own bikes and my son's removed the connector which joins the alternator to the loom and to the r/r and hard wired it. The fv(97) has 5 wires 3 yellow 1 red 1 green. I do like the idea of the loom ( plug and play)type. Once the connectors burn, they don't seem to be the same. Hopefully you caught it soon enough! Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 I agree with Tightwad, once connection is damaged, unlikely ever to be reliable, is this a 3 yellow wire plug connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kblackburn Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Tightwad, I hope so, do you do a loom to fit the 750 fv version, as I might as well replace the wiring whilst I have the bike in bits. kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted December 25, 2009 Author Share Posted December 25, 2009 Tightwad, I hope so, do you do a loom to fit the 750 fv version, as I might as well replace the wiring whilst I have the bike in bits. kev The VFRness for the 750 is different from the rest in that it doesn't T into the charging circuit, but actually replaces a good bit of it...see the thread linked in my signature for more details, and you can find it on my website of course....but better data and pictures are compiled here on this great site. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer robwalmsley Posted December 25, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted December 25, 2009 hi kev,seasons greetings,just to but in i had burnt connectors etc on my fv wiring ,i used tight wads upgrade it sorted the problem out and am getting solid reading on my volt meter,20,000 miles + since rewire .i now carry out a wirig visual insp as part of my servicing regime.cheers rob. :schla15: hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kblackburn Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Tightwad, thanks for the reply, I can't quite grasp what happens to the wiring from the starter relay area, have you replaced the red/white wire with a red wire and put an inline fuse in there,the earth directly to the battery, stator wires just replaced with heavy gauge wire and new connectors,( I hard wired my son's cbr to eliminate the faulty/loose terminals at the stator plug.) I have another problem with the bike I have just bought, it appears to have been a cat D, which has been bodged back together, the wiring from the ignition switch to the loom has been altered, it should have a 3 pin arrangement, but has a 5 pin plug which has been altered, do you know where I can buy the 3 pin plug, male and female, so that I can repair the wiring correctly, I will also have to replace the ignition switch. regards kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted December 29, 2009 Author Share Posted December 29, 2009 The 3rd and 4th gen VFR has a 5 pin plug, with 3 smaller stator connections and the larger power and ground connections below them. If the R/R doesn't have this connection, then someone has spliced an R/R from a different model in. The wires from the R/R plug go about 24" to another connection, where the stator wires come to from the stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kblackburn Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Sorry Tightwad, I may have mislead you here, the connector to the r/r has indeed 5 wires. 3 yellow (stator) 1 green (earth) and 1 red/white, I fully understand the replacement of the yellow wires, with heavy gauge than standard and the relocating the earth to the battery, but why the replacement of the red/white wire and the inclusion of an extra fuse?. It's the ignition switch wires that have been messed with, it should have a 3 pin connector, someone has fit a 6 pin connector (90-93) models, then cut out the two brown wires and left the other space empty, my question in regard to the ignition switch, was do you have access to 3 pin connectors that could be used for the rewiring of the ignition switch. many thanks kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted December 29, 2009 Author Share Posted December 29, 2009 Sorry Tightwad, I may have mislead you here, the connector to the r/r has indeed 5 wires. 3 yellow (stator) 1 green (earth) and 1 red/white, I fully understand the replacement of the yellow wires, with heavy gauge than standard and the relocating the earth to the battery, but why the replacement of the red/white wire and the inclusion of an extra fuse?. It's the ignition switch wires that have been messed with, it should have a 3 pin connector, someone has fit a 6 pin connector (90-93) models, then cut out the two brown wires and left the other space empty, my question in regard to the ignition switch, was do you have access to 3 pin connectors that could be used for the rewiring of the ignition switch. many thanks kev The entire charging system on the 90-97 models essentially runs through the 14 gauge wire in the starter relay. This leads to burned up starter relay connections when the connection gets less than ideal...it happens so often my kit includes the Starter Relay Connector repair kit I also sell seperately. I duplicated the path to the battery, with a second fuse. This 10 gauge wire leads to much more stable charging, and no more melting down the starter relay connection. No connections are made to the ignition switch...just the Red/White wire in the starter relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kblackburn Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I thought I had seen a diagram of circuit on one of these threads or your web site but I can not find it again, so you replace the red/white wire with a heavy gauge wire to handle better the amps, produced by the r/r. regards kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted December 29, 2009 Author Share Posted December 29, 2009 I thought I had seen a diagram of circuit on one of these threads or your web site but I can not find it again, so you replace the red/white wire with a heavy gauge wire to handle better the amps, produced by the r/r. regards kev There was a diagram of the 2002+ model, but it works under a different premise slightly. Essentially you have it correct, there is a 10 gauge wire from the R/R that goes to an inline heavy duty fuse holder. The is a wire that Y's off the 10 gauge that goes to the Starter Relay, where the original Red/White wire was. The other portion goes directly to the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldhead Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 hi guys, off the subject quickly, i installed the vfrness on my 86, the collected grounds were bolted on the frame(wouldnt reach the battery) along with an additional ground from the battery neg.I read a steady 14.8 at idle and @5K .is that cool? or ... dani Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2011 A couple of problems with VFRness kit with acces. 1. What do you suggest to do with the old stator and r/r wire connections 2. From the VFRness harness to the 4 port Acces. there no way to connect the purple wires together . 3. Send a couple 15A fuses for the 4 port Acces. block. Here are pix's of the purple (both female connectors) wires. P.S. I have email you a couple of times .............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2011 Sent you a PM.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 I responded via PM...but for those who also want to know: I screwed up and made both ends female on the purple wire. Could be my inner female lovingness manifesting itself? could be too many late nights? Either way that one was my fault...sorry about that! There are no unused R/R or stator connections when installing the VFRness. It fits inbetween the existing R/R (not stator) connectors. This provides a duplicate path back to the battery, instead of an alternate path as many other options do...which inherently have the same issue the VFR does over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted September 22, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 22, 2011 One of my issues with the install was how to fit all that mass of heavier guage wires and the connectors under the fairing on the right side. It seemed like I had to bend the wires almost into knots to get it under the plastic and then it still was a force fit. I'm sure I did something wrong. A couple of months ago I removed the VFRness to troubleshoot an electrical problem. I'm condisering reinstalling it , but not looking forward to craming it all under the plastic again. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 23, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2011 I responded via PM...but for those who also want to know: I screwed up and made both ends female on the purple wire. Could be my inner female lovingness manifesting itself? could be too many late nights? Either way that one was my fault...sorry about that! There are no unused R/R or stator connections when installing the VFRness. It fits inbetween the existing R/R (not stator) connectors. This provides a duplicate path back to the battery, instead of an alternate path as many other options do...which inherently have the same issue the VFR does over time. That explains why I had no high beams, or front signal lights. Remember I had the HID kit so I had low beams . The previous owner had straight wired the stator and R/R. P.S. I fix the purple wire wasn't a big deal but did not want you to make hundred of the wrong ones !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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