tinyminds Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 So, I finally joined the world of electrical problems. So here's the situation. I rode about 100 miles yesturday, about half of it in the rain, got to the movie theater in Daytona to see Transformers (awesome movie btw), parked in the parking garage, then decided I was going to park on the other side because my bike was setting at a huge angle. So I jump back on the bike, turn key on, radiator fan kicked on because of the normal 100 degree's in Florida. I press the starter button, lights flashed, bike didn't crank because I had kickstand still down. Pulled kickstand up, pressed starter button again, bike cranked like two turns, stopped cranking, I let off starter button, headlights flashed, then nothing, everything shut off. Its like theres no battery in the bike at all. Key on and off does nothing, even the clock isn't on which has constant power. The only thing I can come up with by looking at the wiring schematic is starter relay. I already have the blue connector ground wire bypassed, which would have been my first guess, but assuming thats not the problem and with the things leading up to it, thats my best guess. I haven't had time to test anything except for looking at all the fuses. 30amp fuse is fine, but the clock doesn't even route through the 30amp fuse anyway. Clock backtraces from dash, to 10amp clock fuse behind right panel, to starter relay, to battery, fuses are fine. Anyone had any simular situations? I'm at work right now and haven't had a chance to test anything. I could just jump the starter relay connecters and see if thats the problem but haven't had time. I called Kevin (kwr...) and he drove my truck from Orlando to Daytona to pick me up, and the bikes still in my truck. Idea's? I'll post up results when I get home tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted July 15, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2007 Try another battery and see if it is just the battery being dead, then figure out why it went dead. You said headlights and stuff went off, which are through the 30 amp fuse, but the clock is off which is through the starter relay circuit so I would guess it is just the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rivcyko Posted July 15, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2007 Definatly, not my thing, but is that the org., battery? Almost sounds like a cell went bad. :unsure: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 Battery voltage is at 13.0V w/ multimeter, I did manage to check that first. Sorry forgot to mention that. But yes it is original battery and bikes at 19k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 check the smaller of the two red wires that are attached to the Positive battery post. The small one has a tendency to get hot, degrade & crack. May not be the fix but doesn't hurt to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 check the smaller of the two red wires that are attached to the Positive battery post. The small one has a tendency to get hot, degrade & crack. May not be the fix but doesn't hurt to check. Replaced it months ago as preventative upgrade. Clock doesn't route through the 30amp fuse though, that was one of the first things I checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rivcyko Posted July 15, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2007 Main line to the ECU or intermittant cell, are my guesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 Main line to the ECU or intermittant cell, are my guesses. From my understanding of looking over the diagram, the power flow from battery to clock doesn't go through the ECU. Direct shot but passes through one fuses which is good, and the starter relay. "shrugs'. If its not starter relay or something inexpensive I'll take it in and let warranty fix it. I just don't like people working on my bike, even if I do work at the shop where they would be working on my bike at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Get that starter relay checked out, then start tracing wires if that doesn't cure it. Maybe a pinch, melt, short whatever. Could be anything, especially in your high heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted July 15, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2007 I ran across an issue recently with one of my tractors and it turned out to be the main fuse. I pulled it first and it looked new so started trouble shooting everything else. After no luck I came back to the fuse and decided to test it....bad. Popped a new fuse in and off I went. Pretty remote but might be worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 one thing to try.. Ok, it ran fine before you parked it.. you state ath the bike was at extreme angle.. I suggest looking at the sensor that trips when the bike falls over.. it will behave the same as what you are describing. I forget how to reset the dang thing though. :unsure: . its like flipping the ignition so many times.. just my 2 cents.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MRHEAT Posted July 15, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2007 I think the problem was going to Daytona to see a movie "what happened to the movies in Orlando" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 one thing to try.. Ok, it ran fine before you parked it.. you state ath the bike was at extreme angle.. I suggest looking at the sensor that trips when the bike falls over.. it will behave the same as what you are describing. I forget how to reset the dang thing though. :unsure: . its like flipping the ignition so many times.. just my 2 cents.. It wasn't leaning really far, but enough for me to move it. Tip sensor wouldn't cause all power to go out, it would just shut down spark output from ECU and it cuts the ground to the fuel pump to keep it from pressurizing. Either way it wouldn't effect the clock. "shrugs ". Going home in a bit will play w/ it sometime in the next couple days :P I think the problem was going to Daytona to see a movie "what happened to the movies in Orlando" Lol I was in Daytona to visit my granny, we just decided to go to the movie since I was there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 767fixer Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 damn, what happened to honda quality. these electrical gremlin posts are way too common. if battery has 13v idle, what happens to it voltage wise when you hit the starter button? our car did something similiar recently and i refused to think it was the battery....but after i had wife crank it while i metered it volts dropped to 6v. new battery and has been good for a long while now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 definantly meter the battery underload (or attempted load) and see what you get. I always start with the most obvious, and verify there is no way it could be them. To have lost ALL power that way is weird. The best way I have found is to test power at each connection. So test on the batter terminal, then on the battery connection, then on the other end of the battery cable, etc. Once I had an employee install a car battery with the Negative plastic cap still installed. Then when it didn't work she used a meter to test it...and happened to poke it right in the hole on top, so it looked good but if she had tested the clamps she would have found the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted July 16, 2007 Author Share Posted July 16, 2007 Starter Relay Switch fried, but the 30amp fuse in it didn't. It lost continuity on both sides of the switch, on starter side and on ignition side. Wild, dumb luck. Expensive bugger too, like ~$90.00. Luckily I work there and just turned it in as warranty. :thumbsup: Replaced switch, clock came back on, turned key on, started right up. Owe well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer oyama Posted July 16, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 16, 2007 Starter Relay Switch fried, but the 30amp fuse in it didn't. It lost continuity on both sides of the switch, on starter side and on ignition side. Wild, dumb luck. Expensive bugger too, like ~$90.00. Luckily I work there and just turned it in as warranty. :thumbsup: Replaced switch, clock came back on, turned key on, started right up. Owe well. Well, you figured out what went bad pretty fast. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Congrats! I had just come up with the answer/cause of you problem. The VFR's built in :pissed: meter maxed out and went into survival Mode! PS please post up a complete version of this problem/solution in the "Vtec Elec. Problems" post! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rivcyko Posted July 16, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 16, 2007 Congrats!I had just come up with the answer/cause of you problem. The VFR's built in meter maxed out and went into survival Mode! :goofy: PS please post up a complete version of this problem/solution in the "Vtec Elec. Problems" post! :thumbsup: Yes, please. I feel one day, I'm gonna need it. :pissed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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