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Starting Issues..800i V5


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Currently chasing a No crank issue, the battery is charged I am testing each connection going forwards for power plus continuity. 

 

The starter relay has power the 30amp fuse is good...had IV power directly to starter motor so that works. 

 

The stop/ start button has continuity plus starter button not working. 

 

It also has a Data Alarm which is a pain, to say the least. This 2000 I adopted so enjoying, getting to know where things are, I am getting nearer the fault....lol

 

I have a bad back so all this is taking time.

 

Any suggest always welcome.

 

Thank you.

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Titanium2000 said:

Currently chasing a No crank issue, the battery is charged I am testing each connection going forwards for power plus continuity. 

 

The starter relay has power the 30amp fuse is good...had IV power directly to starter motor so that works. 

 

The stop/ start button has continuity plus starter button not working. 

 

It also has a Data Alarm which is a pain, to say the least. This 2000 I adopted so enjoying, getting to know where things are, I am getting nearer the fault....lol

 

I have a bad back so all this is taking time.

 

Any suggest always welcome.

 

Thank you.

 

 

 

 

You say "starter button not working" ! Is that a typo error? If not, then that's the fault, the wiring or switch needs repair or replacement!

 

Here's the basic starter circuit diagram attached. Highlighted Red is the Positive Voltage feed for the Relay Coil the Green Highlighted is the Grounding side for the Relay Coil.

 

- At Ignition Switch On, are all Indications, Lights, Fuel prime, Normal?

- Have you confirmed Fuse D 10amp Starter Fuse is good?

- Have you confirmed the Neutral Switch is working? Is your Neutral light on?

- Have you tried a Sidestand Up, Clutch pulled in start?

 

If you remove the red plug from the Starter Relay and probe the Red wire connector and the Yellow/red wire connector at the red plug you should have continuity provided the Ignition is On, the Fuse is ok, the Kill Switch is in RUN and the Starter Button is pressed.

Another possibility is an open circuit Clutch Diode. But this will only effect a Neutral Start, Not the Sidestand Up, Clutch in Start.

 

To verify your Starter Relay function, you could use a couple of test leads from the battery, remove the Red Plug from the relay then probe the test leads to where the Green/Red wire (Ground) and the Yellow/Red wire (Positive) would normally go to on the relay. Each time you make contact to the terminals the Starter Relay should energise and starter motor should run. MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS YOUR BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL AND PREFERABLY ON THE CENTER STAND.

 

Let's know how you get on.

 

VFR-StartCircuit2.thumb.jpg.c6ea47a0cc969db8dd4b79b49d9da063.jpg

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Some success although I had porwer to the starter relay...the press start would not start the bike with a full battery...even crank. 

 

The starter motor does respond to independant power...tonight when I turned the bike on, the starter relay awoke into action in just making a constant clicking sound, plus the bike tried to start.

 

That means the handlebar stop/start is functioning plus the starter button itself.  It may well have been intermittent as the starter relay made no sound at all in the beginning.

 

So ordering a new stater relay....big Honda dealer near us. 

 

Thanks again Grom for all your suggestions...making progress now.

 

 

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Before buying a new Starter Relay!

Just be sure that your Battery is definitely in good health as you say it is! And battery terminals are clean and tight. I've also mentioned how you can check the operation of the Starter Relay!

 

When you independently powered the Starter Motor was this from the bikes battery or some other battery?

 

A clicking Starter Relay can be caused by a bad battery.(or poor wiring connections). It might be working but there is no or insufficient battery capacity to run the Starter Motor.

So if in doubt charge the battery and have it load checked, any descent auto parts store will do it for you FOC.

Or simply monitor the battery voltage as you press the starter button, what does the voltage drop to?

 

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From

 

I test the starter motor with an independent power 12v that turned over. 

 

The original battery I do not know how old that is....can you do an oms test on the starter relay itself. I have other bikes. 

 

Any battery suggests for these Hondas, I have Leoch plus Motobatt..

 

Thanks for you help gentlemen. 🏍

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14 minutes ago, Titanium2000 said:

From

 

I test the starter motor with an independent power 12v that turned over. 

 

The original battery I do not know how old that is....can you do an oms test on the starter relay itself. I have other bikes. 

 

Any battery suggests for these Hondas, I have Leoch plus Motobatt..

 

Thanks for you help gentlemen. 

With Ignition on are your headlights glowing normally???

 

Ohms testing the relay coil is really only of benefit if checking for an open circuit coil. It's easy to functionally check the Relay. But yes you should see zero ohms across the main contacts when energized.

 

 

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Why don't you just jump the bike with your known good independent 12V supply and see if it cranks and starts normally?

 

Or did I miss that you already tried?

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Yes Grom the headlight is bright plus fine...is the ohms test across the starter relay coil 5 ohms., does that give any indication of correct function.

 

Captain, I tried to jumper with a separate battery, no crank my bikes all have battery maintainer through our cold and damp winters. I am about 50 miles from the Lake District.

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3 hours ago, Titanium2000 said:

Yes Grom the headlight is bright plus fine...is the ohms test across the starter relay coil 5 ohms., does that give any indication of correct function.

Now that you've established the spade connectors on the Relay that go to the coil, you can now do the Function test of the Relay as suggested in my first post!!

Again MAKE SURE YOUR BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL.

Failing the test and assuming you do have a healthy battery, then go buy a new Starter Relay.

If the test passes then you need to establish both Power and Ground for the Starter Relay coil as per the diagram posted.

 

Also no answer from you from previous questions...

- Have you confirmed the Neutral Switch is working? Is your Neutral light on?

- Have you tried a Sidestand Up, Clutch pulled in start?

 

Good luck.

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Yes sorry Grum, the side stand switch is working plus the neutral is on....the mini crank confirmed those as working...

 

I am learning a lot here....I have a Honda CB750 plus Yamaha FJ1200 as well, thx guys. 

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Post pics of FJ! 🙂 I had three of them before making the move to a '99 VFR years ago. Still have some FJ ABS stuff for sale. 

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I had the same year/color scheme, and an '86 and a '93. Superb bikes. 

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Lovely machine. I used to yearn for one on my longer trips up North in the late 80s until I got to the A1 roundabouts and the VF500F2 just flicked through. Anyhow, that really is a sparklingly clean specimen for UK conditions - fantastic find.

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My local independent has a starter relay, on inspection the battery was down to 7v on starting. 

 

In was exchanged in 2011 so well past its functional date...

 

I may wet sand the tank while at this point yet undecided.

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5 minutes ago, Titanium2000 said:

My local independent has a starter relay, on inspection the battery was down to 7v on starting

So the bottom line is your starting issues were all caused by a bad battery. Is that correct? Or are you saying you have both battery and a starter relay fault? I'm confused.

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I was just about to say the same thing, I'm confused.  So this is/was a bad battery the whole time? Bad enough that even with a jumper battery it still wouldn't crank.  Or was your independent "good" battery also not good?

 

Typically a relay that can "click" is not the problem. 

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