Member Contributer Presson Posted February 6 Member Contributer Share Posted February 6 Just contemplating lowering the triple clamps by 3mm to make the effect of the steering input quicker. Any views? I like the stability of the bike but would like a bit extra responsiveness to adjust the line mid corner to avoid potholes and gravel. I jacked up the back of the GSXR by 5mm and got a massive improvement for 'flickability' without comprising straight line stability, but doing the same on the VFR is a bit more involved due to shock mount location. Alternatively I suppose I could go and do strength training... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted February 6 Member Contributer Share Posted February 6 Mine are down 7mm & the rear is raised 2" & its still rock solid stable. But turns much faster than before 👍 So no need to worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Presson Posted February 6 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 6 You must be almost on your nose! 😁 Thanks for the reassurance though. I'll work the triples down slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 What tires have you mounted? What is the pressure in them? When were your forks last serviced? When were your head bearings last serviced? What type of head bearing is installed? What condition is your rear shock in? What amount of experience do you have? Do you keep a tight or loose grip on the handlebars? How worn is your chain? What sprocket combination is installed? All those things need to be considered before you mess around with changing the geometry. Not that you can't or shouldn't change it... it's just a bit pointless and/or creating new problems if you haven't addressed that list first. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Presson Posted February 8 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 8 Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input. Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer raYzerman Posted February 8 Member Contributer Share Posted February 8 I'd bump that front tire pressure up to at least 38...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 21 hours ago, Presson said: Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input. Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners. Since we don't know each other, it's safer to ask. At 12kmi, your standard head bearings are in need of service and possible replacement. Were they inspected when the forks were serviced? Have you set the suspension up properly for your weight and riding style? The short answer is yes, lowering the front end of your bike will steepen the rake angle and shrink the trail value which will make the bike steer quicker. 3mm is not a significant change. Conversely, if your rear shock is collapsed, overworked, or otherwise insufficient for the task(as most oem are), the rear of your bike will be sitting lower than intended. This will cause the opposite of the effect you're looking for. Compensating for this by lowering the front is a band aid fix and can cause other issues like ground clearance and wallowing of the chassis. I'm not trying to talk you out of modifying or improving your bike... I've got more money and time and extra parts in my VFR than anyone really should... I'm trying to help you make it the best it can be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Presson Posted February 9 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 9 Thanks Sebspeed, all understood and no offence taken. The head bearings were checked when the forks were serviced and found to be in good shape. I also had the suspension professionally set up last Summer ( well checked actually as I'd already got it almost bang on). I'm going to experiment with a little more pressure in the front tyre as raYzerman suggested to see what difference that makes. Depending on that, I'll then consider dropping the triples slightly and see what difference that makes. As I said earlier I'm only looking for a marginal change. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted February 9 Member Contributer Share Posted February 9 Which VFR is this? No years in your profile info. Try not to fix one problem with creating another. If you have a suspension or geometry issue, PSI won't fix it even if it makes it "feel" better under normal circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Presson Posted February 9 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 9 Thanks Bmart. It's an 8Gen but there is no problem with bike. It's more about personal preference. I'm grateful to everyone piling in with advice about geometry and suspension. I think this thread has run its course for my needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted February 9 Member Contributer Share Posted February 9 More advice, semi-solicited, I guess! I'd start with the right spring rates, sag, and damping adjustment. Modifying geometry before that won't likely give you a good result under any stressed conditions. And having a bike set up properly for you is so much more enjoyable, and safe, to ride. I would add setting up controls, as most of them point to the sky creating all kinds of bad body position. Get good body position, still critical for normal on road duties. Then geometry. Then ergos. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't, and the outcome is so much better! Good luck. Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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