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Terry last won the day on May 21

Terry had the most liked content!

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About Terry

  • Rank
    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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  1. Or use some vegetable oil and cook up some chips when you are done. It would be a good idea to clean the switch of any residual coolant before you do that, but ethylene glycol is not THAT toxic. Actually, it is less toxic than table salt (but a lot easier to ingest in large quantities).
  2. Seeing as how we are posting up tables, here's one I made earlier which shows the calculated ratio of the total front brake piston area divided by the master cylinder area. This is a crude way of comparing the force at the calipers for a given squeeze. The higher the number, the more pad force is generated, and conversely the more lever travel there would be. At the low end, brakes will feel firm, wooden and not very grabby. At the high end, there will be a softer lever feel, more travel, and a grabbier brake. The numbers given for the 5G and 6G delinked assume that you can now activate all 6 pistons from the lever e.g. with a bridging hose or bored through caliper. There's more to it than just this, the pivot point/arm length geometry of the lever over the master piston, the disc diameter, and the wheel rolling circumference all play their part. I can confirm that a 330kg ST1100 with the stock brake set up (=wooden, weak) is more exciting to panic stop than a 200kg VTR1000F running CBR954 brakes.The same ST1100 is less exciting with a smaller master (= bigger ratio) and some EBC HH pads, but still demands some respect...
  3. Yes the owner's manual states 122C as a maximum (252F) beyond which serious engine damage can occur. Just a question (maybe a dumb one) regarding changing the airflow direction, why is a reverse blade required. Surely the fan is powered by a DC motor, and reversing the rotation would be as easy as swapping the polarity of the wires?
  4. What do they fend off? Ships? Evil? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. All Honda forks go the same way. I have sanded mine smooth, then applied an etch primer, followed by a few coats of a silver enamel, then a clear top coat. Probably not as durable as powder coating but easier and cheaper. If you do go with PC make sure your painter masks off the insides. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 600F4i fender on 600F4i forks??? That will fit just like Mr Honda intended. The fork leg spacing side to side on the 600F4i is exactly the same as the 6G. I actually have 600F4i fender fitted right now (not needed, just more random eBay shopping when bored...).
  7. A better photo of the 5G guard on the 600F4i forks, showing the mount modification for the rear. I fitted the stock nut and bolt in the unused 5G top mount just for appearnces, but they don't do anything structural. I messed up slightly with the position of the rear mount, hence the slight downward angle of the front of the guard, I'm sure it made the aerodynamics better though!
  8. As far as I know, the 03-04 600RR brakes will be a direct fit to F4i forks, the castings of all of those 4-piston brakes looks to be the same across the 929, 954, 600F4i, SP1, SP2 and 600RR, with just some variation in piston size; they also all use the same pads. Later 600RR's use radial mount brakes which are of course unsuitable.
  9. The 600F4i forks use exactly the same crappy HMAS pistons in the cartridge as the 5G, and also use a similarly weedy set of springs, so at the very least I would replace the compression valve and springs, but preferable the rebound valves too. Hit Jamie up for some parts pricing, or go to Sonic for some springs. The 600F4i forks are a touch shorter, maybe 10mm, than the 5G, so you will have slightly quicker steering, but I've had no instability and no shortage of ground clearance. I also have a Daugherty shock which is longer than stock so the geometry of the bike is at the faster end of the spectrum. Of course with decent springs, the forks will probably be riding a little higher than stock, so swings and roundabouts. The benefit of the 600F4i forks is adjustability, stiffness, and the ease of fitting 4-piston brakes.They also use a wider set of bushings which I think make for less deflection/stiction. 6G triples are a direct swap, and the only adjustment I needed was to get the steering lock to align properly; the ignition barrel was sitting up a bit high so I added a couple of washers between the triple and the ignition to move the latter down a little. The 5G mudguard fits nicely to the 600F4i forks and the lower mounts line up exactly. The 600F4i fork has a top mount behind the leg, and I riveted a couple of small aluminium strips to the 5G guard to mate with these; I drilled and tapped holes in the strips to accept the mounting bolts. The other option is to get a 600F4i mudguard of course. As far as I can measure/feel, the 5G wheel, axle and spacers fit the 600F4i fork without any adjustment needed, and actually I think my bike tracks straighter now that it did when stock.
  10. I used a 600F4i rear master, and did have to cut the pushrod down to fit; a hacksaw makes short (see what I did there?) work of it. IIRC there was something in the mounts that needed modifying, maybe they were threaded and just needed to be drilled out? I know it was no big deal. You can leave the back caliper totally untouched, and just take both the stock brake lines to your new master, and use a double banjo bolt to connect them there. There is a suitable double banjo in the linked brakes that you can re-purpose for the job. The stock lines fit like they were made to have this done.
  11. Yep, all down to personal preference. I found the F4i master and brakes had a bit more grab than I wanted, I prefer to use a bit more force when I want more stopping. With braided lines, there is little flex in the system.
  12. My 2 cents worth on brake upgrades (assuming you go this path) is that my preference would be for early CBR600RR brakes, rather than the CBR600F4 set. The RR (and 954 and SP2) uses smaller 30/32mm pistons and a bigger master (17.46mm) which in my experience gives the best brake feel/power combo. The 600F4i uses a smaller master (15.87mm) and bigger caliper pistons (32/34mm) so is a more powerful set up (more pad pressure for a given squeeze) but with a soft lever feel. I have a 954 set on my VTR, and 600F4i on the VFR, and I much prefer the former, although I'm still using stock hoses with the VTR and braided hoses on the VFR. I swapped out the F4i master for the larger and visually identical 600RR master on my VFR, and that is an improvement.
  13. I live far, far away from Jamie. I ordered just the parts and did the rest myself. I have had a little experience with fork tinkering and fitted springs and Gold Valves to my RF900 forks. Jamie's parts are a very similar to Gold Valves, and generally cheaper, so in my view functionally they are interchangeable. Race Tech do however provide a lot of background info with their parts and these give useful recipes for shim stacks, and their spring rate recommendations are pretty correct too, and I used those to guide my changes. Forks are easy enough to rebuild; the only bit that can give trouble is getting the bolts out of the bottom of the forks, as these screw into the dampers, which can spin in place if you are unlucky. An impact driver can overcome this, but I've mostly been lucky in that regard. If it happens, pulling up hard on the extended damper can add enough friction to stop the spinning, but some have had to resort to drilling off the bolt head. If anyone wants advice I'd happily share what I've learned. I've had plenty of help with other bike issues from forum folks.
  14. I started with Jamie's compression valve and springs in the stock forks, then added VTR adjusters and a rebound Gold Valve, then moved to VTR lowers and CBR600F4 brakes, now I have CBR600F4 forks in 6G triples with 6G bars. I blame eBay. Don't tell my wife. The biggest step change is to the damper internals, and will make a huge difference to the bike's ability to deal with bumps with confidence. The VFR stock front end is undersprung and has restrictive high-speed damping especially in compression, that stop it absorbing bumps nicely. I use 0.9kg/mm springs, and have replaced both the compression valves and rebound. If you are happy with the VFR brakes, I'd stop right there, IMHO that is 95% of the total improvement that you will get. I got the urge to add adjustable rebound damping, so I bought some lightly bent VTR forks and used the fork caps and damper rod parts. Just so I could play with the rebound bleed adjustment. The damper cartridge parts, fork seals, fork bushes etc are all interchangeable between VTR and VFR. So I had some VTR lowers just laying about...add some CBR600F4 brakes and I had the de-link going. Used the VFR uppers. Made my own fender adaptor plates. The VFR wheel and axle slot straight in. The brakes needed to be shimmed off the fork mounts by 3mm to centre nicely on the discs. CBR600 calipers interfere with the lower fork mounts, and the latter need a little filing to fit nicely. Could you use a VTR mudguard? I'm going to say probably no, the guard slips over the outside of the fork mounts, and the VFR fork spacing is wider so these just won't fit. As far as I recall, the VTR uppers are near enough to the same length as the VFR, certainly within 5mm, so near enough to interchangeable. I do prefer the separate brakes, but had no problem with the linked system either. Then I had another urge, to upgrade to CBR600F4 forks; these are 43mm diameter, so significantly stiffer than 41mm forks, and came with adjustable compression damping, something I wanted to experiment with. The 5G wheel/axle fit straight in, and the 5G guard fitted perfectly at the lower mount, and needed a simple bracket to mate with the top fork mounts. The problem with modifying this stuff is knowing when to stop. I would find myself riding along and wondering whether a little more rebound damping might be good, or a little less compression damping. Within reason, now I can just stop and pull out a screw driver, but the reality is once you have taken out the junky OEM damper parts and got the shim stacks right, there's not much to be gained with further fine-tuning. Jamie's recommended set-up was close to but not quite the best for me, but I think that comes down to individual preferences, and I've learned that like pillows and mood lighting, I prefer my suspension on the softer end of the scale, as I (think) tend to ride fairly smoothly.
  15. Dang! I hope he pulls through quickly.