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Terry last won the day on October 8

Terry had the most liked content!

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About Terry

  • Rank
    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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8,132 profile views
  1. Warmup time/miles?

    If you are that far in, I'd suggest you replace the radiator hoses around the thermostat in the V, mine started leaking soon after and required the same degree of surgery (again).
  2. 5th gen engine in 6th gen

    I have recently "helped" Phil with a clean-out of his shed (bought an 8-spoke and then some nice 6G wheels off him) so I can vouch having seen his bike in the flesh a month or so back, looking tasty and well enjoyed. As far as I know it is going great but I'm sure the great man himself will chime in at some point.
  3. Get an impact driver (air or mains powered); these make short work of fasteners that are frozen in place by either threadlock or time/corrosion. If you are like me you will only use it a couple of times per year, but each time you will marvel at the ease of fastener removal that would normally involve rounded off heads/swearing/drilling out/fastener replacement. I'm not sure about the 6G but my 5G definitely had torx bolts and threadlock and was near impossible to remove without the impact driver. I flipped the triple clamp over on the steering head to attack these.
  4. Thermostat issue?

    Certainly agree with that, thermostat issues can usually be identified with a hand on the radiator as the bike is started from cold. If it is stuck open then you feel the radiator warming slowly from as soon as the engine is started, if it is normal the radiator stays cold until the thermostat opens, then the radiator very quickly gets too hot to touch.
  5. Weak Starter

    My betting money would be on a battery that needs to be replaced. Will have enough current flow to light the lights, but not enough to spin the starter. A jumper cable would be the first thing to try, but speaking from personal experience if the battery has high internal resistance this will sometimes interfere, so best to take the bike battery out of the circuit e.g. remove the positive cable from the terminal.
  6. Currently have 99901km on my 99 5G. Seems to be running perfectly, all I've replaced is the coolant hoses and FPR (precautionary but not needed). Has got a non-standard RR, and I am very anal about the cleanliness of the wiring connectors. As a self-confessed tinkerer I have replaced the forks and brakes (CBR600F4i), revalved and resprung the forks, and I have Daugherty CBR929 shock, and fitted a FactoryPro shift star.
  7. Opinon Time - Tires

    I'm really impressed with Metzeler Roadtec 01's, the first front tyre that I've met that is built to wear better in the shoulder zone where I usually wear out lesser tyres. The front tyre on my 800 looks hardly worn after some severe abuse and is resisting triangular wear very well. It also is one of the most stable and comfortable-riding tyres I've tried, yet with no lack of grip. I'm also partial to Pirelli Angel ST but I would prefer the Roadtec's on my ST1100 if they came in the right size.
  8. 6th Gen Delink

    If you are using your uppers (and they will bolt right in), why not buy bent 600 forks for a lower cost like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bent-1999-2000-Honda-CBR600-F4-CBR600F4-Front-End-Fork-Leg-Shocks-for-Parts/252915786519?hash=item3ae2f4a317:g:N3wAAOSwrhBZCObb&vxp=mtr On my 5G, I have 6G triples and bars, 600F4i forks (bought bent, got them straightened), CBR600RR master, 600F4i calipers (but 954 are better), 5G wheel, axle and discs, 600F4i fender. I have the standard 600F4i dampers, with DMr valves and shims. The 600F4i forks already come with full damper adjustability, so getting the DMr cartridges makes less sense apart from the drop-in nature. You will get the SAME result with just DMr valve parts (compression valve, rebound valve, shim stacks for both) which would save some money.
  9. 2003 VFR800 - no charge voltage

    I'm fairly sure that running the bike with the RR disconnected from the earth/battery load would overload the components fairly fast. AFAIK the SH series RR discharges excess energy through resistors as heat, and without any balancing load there would be a lot more of that. In any case, you definitely need a new one, there not a factory specification for allowable quantities of smoke being discharged...your choice is now to replace like with like, or to move to a MOSFET-style RR which would be a better bet for long-term life as they don't generate anywhere near as much heat. You might also consider fitting either a voltmeter or a battery monitor light, either of which would give you some forewarning of impending electrical doom.
  10. 6th Gen Delink

    MD is quite right; you should be able to find a lightly bent set of F4/F4i forks for not much $$, toss in DMr cartridges, toss the bent uppers and use your 6G uppers then all you need is some calipers and a master. My suggestion would be the CBR600RR 03 integrated master, with CBR954 or SP2 calipers. All of these Honda parts will mix and match nicely with no machining needed. The F4/F4i lowers also come with external adjustable compression damping if you wanted that.
  11. 2003 VFR800 - no charge voltage

    Those are certainly the symptoms of a dying battery, either inherently a dud or it's not getting charged by the electrical system. Once you get some charge back into it and start the bike, check the voltage across the battery terminals; anything less than 13.5V and you have a charging issue e.g. regulator/rectifier is dead or the stator is kaputt.
  12. rpm increases, but why?

    You may find the piston in clutch slave cylinder extends a little with the clutch lifter plate removed; might need a little encouragement to get it to retract when you reassemble, same as pushing a brake piston back when changing pads.
  13. rpm increases, but why?

    Try the basic maintenance stuff first (flush clutch fluid, clean out master and slave) but my guess is you need at least new friction discs, but maybe also springs. Changing these out is no seriously big deal with hand tools.
  14. Front Stand Recommendation

    I bought a cheap head stand from a local retailer; just awesome to use.