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Terry last won the day on October 8

Terry had the most liked content!

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About Terry

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    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

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  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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  1. Bike Idling at 3k RPM!

    As others have commented, check all your rubber hoses; there is a forest of them under the TB's, and the comment that you were unable to balance the SV's suggests that at least one hose is off/holed. Someone else had an issue with the hose off to the flapper mechanism which gave similar symptoms.
  2. My worn clutch (95000km) had quite a sudden engagement near the end of travel, and was a little difficult to launch smoothly. The fiction discs were visibly worn and a bit thin. With new discs, the engagement band is much wider and so the clutch is smoother and easier to use.
  3. If the clutch is not releasing fully/easily when you let go of the lever, that might account for some slip, so as a first step I'd suggest doing a clutch fluid replacement and bleed. There is a very small return port in the master (under the small pressed in deflector plate in the floor of the reservoir) which can clog and prevent fluid pressure releasing from the line. You might also check that the clutch pushrod is moving freely, you can access this by pulling the slave cylinder off, then the pushrod can be pulled right out; if needed you can polish off any wear and grease it before installation. . If you have to do it, clutch plate replacement is not a terribly big job, and it can be done on the sidestand without draining the oil. You need a clutch cover gasket plus the plates, I used EBC CK plates and some new springs, and my clutch feels like new now.
  4. Help! Drive chain won't stay adjusted

    I guess it is obvious that the pinch bolt needs to be tight to stop the eccentric rotating in the rear hub. What is not so obvious is the bolt must have the washer/brake hose carrier installed, if not the bolt can bottom out without pinching hard on the eccentric.
  5. Manual cam chain tensioners

    I've got APE brand manual CCTs in my VTR1000F, on that bike these are a compulsory acquisition as failure is sudden and deadly to the valves. I manually tensioned them with the cam covers off so they have 7mm of freeplay between the cam sprockets.
  6. I owned a CBX750F back in the day and it was awesome; this was an Interceptor-styled 1980's bike introduced between the demise of the VF750F and the intro of the VFR750 in 86, and used the same basic engine as the CB700/750SC. I was looking at buying another recently and so looked into the mechanical reliability a bit. The only part that seems to give mechanical trouble is the alternator drive chain, and this is a bit difficult to replace but the parts are available. The same basic engine is in the CB750F so parts shouldn't be too hard to come by.
  7. Warmup time/miles?

    I agree with Skids, sounds like a stuck-open thermostat. To check, start the engine from cold and keep a hand on the right radiator. If it slowly gets warm, the tstat is stuck open. If it stays stone cold for a couple of minutes then quickly gets too hot to touch, all is well. The tstat should open at 176F or so, so the radiator should be cold below that. My bike warms to 78C by the time I put my helmet on and ride about 2km at 50km/hr.
  8. Paint

    There's some good basic advice on this YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdCViyboSXSfns8wtFx3_1g
  9. I'm with Yoshi on this, the 5G lever has a unique pushrod with a socket end. The CBR1100 are the only bikes that use it AFAIK.
  10. Ok just don’t get me started on camchain tensioners! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. All stock VTR1000's run a simple gravity feed to the carbs, with a vacuum petcock to shut off the fuel when stopped. The fuel lines are pretty big (10mm??), one to each thirsty carb, and they never starve the engine. The only filter is a strainer on the tank outlet. I think the real reason for fuel pumps on the carbed VFR is the relative height of the float bowls vs the tank outlet. You are going to need a reasonable amount of fall to ensure some flow otherwise the carbs will run dry when the tank level is low.
  12. MotoGp I4 versus V4

    I watched this a few nights ago, great if you are a gearhead who likes engine sounds. https://youtu.be/3CXk5gPj5UI
  13. I don't exactly recall where this came from, probably something the Mr Google turned up for me. I keep my eye out for such things and have found them online for each of my bikes. So much easier to make sense of the diagram when it is nicely coloured like this. AFAIK the most common differences electrical between US and ROW bikes are the position lights in the indicators, or any solenoids for charcoal canister purge or PAIR systems specifically installed to meet tighter emissions regs. Those generally won't affect the more common wiring layout however.