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Terry last won the day on May 21

Terry had the most liked content!

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312 Excellent

About Terry

  • Rank
    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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  1. Speedo error

    By calculation, with stock gearing 100 km/hr (62 mph) should be 4280rpm. Get a GPS speedo app on your smartphone and check for yourself.
  2. According to all the people who complain their VFR runs hot, RANCAP's bike should be a small puddle of melted metal at that temperature!
  3. I've replaced plenty of rubber parts on my 99, all the radiator hoses for example. But I've never noticed any weeping from the cam cover o-rings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. No I have never replaced the o-rings on the cam cover. Just make sure you put some sealant on the half moons on the main gasket, the flat parts don't need it but the moons will weep without sealant. Don't over-tighten the cam cover bolts, have heard plenty of horror stories about snapping off the mounts in the head.
  5. Engine cutting out randomly

    Sudden shut-down, FI warning light, ABS light...these are all random electrical faults. My guess is you have a bad earth block. Time to pull the bodywork off, disconnect and re-connect all connectors, clean off corrosion and add dielectric grease as you go. Check the battery earth strap is tight. The earth block on the 6G is on the harness under the front cowl right side IIRC, a small rectangle taped into the main loom. I have read about these failing (corroding then melting) before.
  6. Interesting question here... My understanding is that clearances decrease with time as the valve wears into the head. So maybe the carbon build up on the exhaust valve cushions them a little and preserves the clearance better than the clean valves on the intake? My experience on my three bikes (5G VFR, VTR1000 and ST1100, which all use the same cam/bucket/shim arrangement) is the same, intakes are the valves more likely to close up. I do know that the exhaust clearance needs to be greater than the intake to allow for the greater thermal expansion of the hotter exhaust valve. And to answer one of the original questions about crank and cam timing; always remember that on the four stroke, there are two crank revolutions per power stroke. That is why the cams run at half speed compared to the crank, so that each cam goes through a single revolution per power stroke. The piston is at TDC twice per power cycle, once with the valves open at the end of the exhaust cycle, and once with the valves closed at the top of the compression cycle. As the ignition fires at every crank revolution (the ignition pulse generator is off the crank) it does not matter whether you start the cam timing exercise on a "compression" or "exhaust cycle" but it is very important to get the four cams into the correct relationship to each other. As stated, read the service manual carefully and don't deviate from the procedure. I know from the VTR1000 forum that it is possible to time the both cylinders correctly, or with one cylinder 360 crank degrees out of position; all the timing marks line up fine and the bike starts and runs OK but apparently loses its ability to run at high revs, which i would expect has something to do with intake or exhaust resonance. Because I doubt my own ability to get these things corrected easily, I only ever work on one cam at a time on my bikes. On my VTR (chain driven cams) I pull the cam off the sprocket, and leave the sprocket cable-tied to the chain so I can't lose timing. This is a great idea until you refit the cam, and turn the crank without remembering to cut off the cable tie first....
  7. Which One?

    If that were me I'd buy the 99; better bodywork (and that is not easy to replace) and sounds well-loved. Plus you've already looked at the condition and met the owner. For me the 99 is a better bet, catless and no O2 sensors, also no fast idle wax unit; the 99 has a good old fashioned fast idle lever on the bars, which don't give any trouble. You get to keep the stock muffler, and can add your choice of slip on if you fancy that. Knock a few hundred off because you don't want the helmet and other bits.
  8. Bad Speedometer Sensor?

    The nylon coupler is just a press fit on the shaft; I don't recall using anything more than a screwdriver to prise the old one up/off, and pushing the new one on by hand. If you needed to, you could dip the coupler in a cup of hot water to make it a little more pliable but I did not need to do that.
  9. Starting Problem

    Don't discount a failing battery in this. Batteries can develop an internal short which prevents full current passing to the solenoid or starter. That same short will also prevent jump cables from providing enough current. Before you do anything else, try the jump again but pull your bike battery out of the circuit (i.e. pull the positive battery cable off and connect the jump positive lead directly to that). I had the exact same thing with my daughter's car and convinced myself that I needed a new solenoid, but some advice from a work colleague and a new battery fixed it.
  10. 93 N-m or 69 lb-ft.
  11. New guy, to forum and to Hondas

    Yes indeedy...your bearing races will have little ball bearing dents in them that cause the self-centring effect. Time for some tapered rollers.
  12. New guy, to forum and to Hondas

    What a brilliant strategy Mike! Maybe you are too smart to be a cardiologist...
  13. Yep, sounds like the solenoid has passed its use-by date, MrOrange. Hope that is your problem sorted. Lots of fun keeping ageing bikes going, isn't it?
  14. Attached is the circuit diagram for the RC24 starter. The solenoid should engage when you push the start button, provided there is a ground path through either the neutral switch (in neutral) or the clutch switch (clutch pulled in). I'm guessing you've done this, but I would check that you get 12v at the solenoid when the start switch is pressed (Y/R wire to ground). Does the starter spin when you jump directly from the battery to the starter (bypassing the solenoid)?
  15. http://www.flo-commander.com/ I have no idea if this is Snake-oil!