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Terry

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Terry last won the day on March 21

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About Terry

  • Rank
    Offering ill-informed opinions since 1982
  • Birthday 09/29/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FiX, 1997 VTR1000FV, 1990 ST1100

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  1. http://win-helmets.com/rx7v-rc30-30anniversary/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. If you go to Partzilla, and look up the part number for the clutch master piston kit, that will show you all the other bikes that take the same part, and so have the same diameter MC. There's a lot of them. Then get a used MC that looks the same as your old one off eBay. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-22886-MB0-305.html
  3. Yes you can pull the clutch lifter rod completely out of the 5G engine via the left side. When you have it out, clean it and polish it lightly, then oil it up and slide it home. Also a good time to clean around the case and seal area. Regarding the clutch plates, you might be better off with engine off, put the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in, and then rock it forwards and backwards to break the plates free of each other. That is assuming the clutch pushrod is actually moving freely and lifting the clutch centre, but you'd be able to tell by the clutch lever feel if it is not. At that point the only thing holding the plates together will be old,cold oil. It might actually be beneficial to run the engine up to operating temperature first, I'm sure some additional heat in there might help. Then switch off and rock the bike as above.
  4. Just spotted this on FB; now I want one... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. bitNine, I'm impressed by your wood working and video skills! Thanks for showing that. You maybe need to add a right angle bracket off the vertical post that connects with the fork cap to hold it up, and then a strap to the end of the lever to hold the compressed spring down, then you could dismiss your wife! (good luck with that last bit!!!). So far I've managed to do most workshop tasks solo, although it was useful to have my daughter step on the rear brake when I was undoing the countershaft sprocket bolt. Wood is a much maligned workshop material, but it is fantastic in compression, and so easy to work.
  6. From the look of the service manual, you could unscrew the damper rod bolt in the end of the fork leg, that will allow you to extract the complete damper/spring/cap assembly in one piece. Once you have that out,it should be an easier job to compress the spring enough to unscrew the cap. Otherwise you will need to devise something to pull the spacer down to compress the spring while in place, maybe just a strong helper would do? It's only a fork spring after all. The holes in the spacer are not a critical part, just there to allow the tool to be used.
  7. I assume you've got a vacuum petcock on the 4G; if that is giving grief (e.g. not opening fully due to debris or age/perishing) then I suspect you'd have a similar problem. So check the vacuum line is intact with no cracks or splits, then try applying vacuum (a good mouth suck would do) and see if you get a good gravity fuel flow through the petcock. They are not difficult to rebuild, and are a known failure point on many bikes (my VTR1000 and ST1100 for example) with age.
  8. The image below is from the Honda service manual. Just the same as the Clymer manual.
  9. Yes you have the wrong brake lever. The correct one will have a ball socket that engages with the end of the pushrod. IIRC the lever is unique to CBR1100XX and VFR800Fi 98-01 and nothing else. Easy enough to find on eBay.
  10. I used the VHT Engine Paint Metallic called Black Pearl. I was lazy and didn't even pull the clutch cover off, just masked the bolt heads and oil glass, and sprayed away, feathering into the original paint, and it looks just fine.
  11. If you have a leak at the block-off plates, it is very obvious due to the terrible sound that it makes.I assume that you have blanked/blocked off the large air port at the front of the airbox that feeds the PAIR system? I doubt that the solenoid will play any part in this whether it is connected or not; I just disconnected mine and taped it out of the way. More likely you have missed a connector/hose somewhere. I left the vacuum hose off for the MAP sensor once and the bike told me pretty quickly via lame running and the FI light morse code.
  12. Pretty sure my 99 catless pipes are black painted steel.
  13. I'm not exactly sure what you are asking for here. The VFR's are mechanically very well built, and few give any real trouble. I've got a 5G so I'm biased, but (touches wood) it has nearly made it to 100,000km without any issues. Weak points on these are the regulator/rectifier and the wire connection between this and the alternator; the connector if ignored can cause the failure of either of the others. My bike has a aftermarket RR, and I have removed the connector and soldered the wires permanently, plus fitted a voltmeter. A work over to clean other connectors and grounding points would be time well spent to avoid other oddball issues. A 5G will be no less than 16 years old at this point so expect some age-related flaws to arise, e.g. thermostat failure, radiator hoses that weep, steering head bearings needing replacement. Shocks and forks will probably benefit from an overhaul as well. Valves use shim-under-bucket adjustment which is fairly bulletproof and even if ignored probably won't cause any engine damage. The FI system on my 99 works perfectly (provided all the bits are plugged in...) and I have never considered a PC. Bodywork is unavailable new, but there are some reasonable replica parts available ex China if you're careful.
  14. One tip I've read about (but not tried personally) is to use aluminium foil as part of the masking material; I can imagine this would be really good around some of the awkward engine shapes. I also did a paint-in-place exercise on my 5G pipes a couple of years back using black VHT paint, with minimal prep, still looks fine today.
  15. Just by way of a comparison, I fitted a set of Bridgestone T30 Evo's onto my VTR1000F and put a few km on them in the weekend. Compared to my VFR on the Roadtecs, the T30's seem to be harder riding and a bit more tippy feeling in corners. The Roadtec's are a more relaxed feeling tyre, a bit more neutral steering/slightly slower. The T30's took more break-in work than I expected with a few small slides from the back end until they got properly scuffed; never had that from the Roadtecs.