VIFFR Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Hey all. I'm in the process of doing valve clearance checks and I've come across a bit of a snag. I believe i am at tdc on the compression stroke (difficult to rotate engine to timing mark for cylinder 1) I'm trying to put the feeler gauge under the lobe however it seems to foul regardless of the thickness. By foul, i can get them under the lobe but not the way through to the other side. Is this normal? Otherwise I'm thinking it may be possible that the cams were put in 1 tooth past where they should? ?? Photos are where the lobes sit for cylinder 1 tdc to measure intake. 0.16mm +/- 0.03 The other photo is the opposite side of the cams showing both intake and exhausted. This is the rear 2 cylinders, 1 and 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 20, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 20, 2017 Personally, I don't get too hung up on the crank/cam position. So long as the cam lobe is pointing directly away from the valve bucket (i.e. up), you know you are on the base circle of the cam and can check the clearance. Yes, you should be able to push the feeler right through the gap, but there should be some drag on the feeler as you do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted June 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2017 +1 on what Terry said. Don't worry about marks, just point them away. You only nerd to get marks right when you reinstall cams, then it's very important. Also make sure you are spinning the crank in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted June 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2017 I'm with these guys... But I have some questions... why do you believe you're at TDC? Why is it difficult to turn the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2017 Here's the diagram from the manual. Not sure which head you took photos of but if that is the rear one, then you are 360 degrees off TDC for #1, based on the scribed lines on the side of the gears (at TDC #1 the mark on the exhaust cam gears should be at 12 o'clock). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIFFR Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Ok perfect thanks for the replies. I figured something was wrong. I'm 180 degrees out by three looks of things. Im doing this on minimal sleep with a 1 year old at home. Taking my time and stopping if i have any questions. Thankfully I've been lent a car for as long as i need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIFFR Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 I'm with these guys... But I have some questions... why do you believe you're at TDC? Why is it difficult to turn the engine? I know I'm at tdc as i have a long screw driver resting on the piston and can see it rise and fall along with the use of timing marks. Not difficult to turn the engine, but you can feel it firm up on a 180° cycle for the exhaust stroke then it gets a bit harder/firmer coming around again on the compression stroke.That's how i was told to do it. Could be misunderstood and going by my results, i think i am! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIFFR Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Personally, I don't get too hung up on the crank/cam position. So long as the cam lobe is pointing directly away from the valve bucket (i.e. up), you know you are on the base circle of the cam and can check the clearance. Yes, you should be able to push the feeler right through the gap, but there should be some drag on the feeler as you do this. Thank you Terry. That's a big help. I only get to work on the bike from about 9pm onwards so my sleep deprived brain needed the clarification. I should be able to get them checked and adjusted and back together to ride to work on Friday. or not. Maybe Saturday. ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 N o matter where the crank is positioned, you can always measure 2 valve clearances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2017 49 minutes ago, VIFFR said: Ok perfect thanks for the replies. I figured something was wrong. I'm 180 degrees out by three looks of things. Im doing this on minimal sleep with a 1 year old at home. Taking my time and stopping if i have any questions. Thankfully I've been lent a car for as long as i need. You need to get the kid to help as soon as they're old enough...Nappies are great for soaking up oil spills. This one's at university now, my how time flies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted June 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2017 14 hours ago, Terry said: Personally, I don't get too hung up on the crank/cam position. So long as the cam lobe is pointing directly away from the valve bucket (i.e. up), you know you are on the base circle of the cam and can check the clearance. Yes, you should be able to push the feeler right through the gap, but there should be some drag on the feeler as you do this. That's what I did too. It might be a bit hard to see in the picture but I used a Sharpie to mark the opposing teeth for re-alignment on install. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/gallery/image/68016-img-2297/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2017 I used correction fluid for that, marked the tooth close a good reference point on the cam saddles: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.