keny

Ok, first I hope you dont mind I continue on your topic HispanicSlammer? I now have first fork leg back together. I started by putting in new slode bearings for the fork leg, and new seals. I usually une a small plastic bag on top of the leg to avoid the seal getting damaged, and put some light grees on the seal so its lubed for a long time. Then I again tock some mesurments. First I compared the upper fri lengt of the 5th gen and F3 interials. About ~11mm lenth difference as the as the outer tube bodys are at even height, 5th gen lower spacer not mounted. Then the head cap difference from low point (where upper spring stopper come against. Some ~33mm differense. From that I asumed I need about that mutch shorter distanser for the spring. As I use the stock spring (and valves for that matter) the stock spacer is 50mm long, so I need a 20mm long spacer. As I could not make a new one (have a frien that does that for me) and I didnt want to cut the stock one, I proceed to see how long the leg will be compared to the other (stock) one that I still hadnt open. And by the way I did use the 5th gen outer valve tube so the rebound stop will be in stock place, not 10mm more upp, and ofcorse the stock spacer. As I had the spring in place I was supriced that if I had a 30mm shorter spacer, the spring would not be against the upper stopper!, a ~20mm shorter spacer would be more right. (sorry no pic of this) As I remeber you did cut the spacer ~10mm HispanicSlammer, my teory that using the F3 outer valve body will let the leg extend 10mm further compared to stock. As I had the cap scruvet to the fork tube, (after some words not sutable to print) as the spring was a pain to compress du to the to long spacer, I put the fork leg whit the F3 volve and head cap sid by side whit the one still haveing stock valve and head cap. And vola same length! I would be intresting if I could get the mesurment how long a fork leg whit F3 oute valve body is. I would gess 10mm longer than the stock, but I hope someone that have done this mod can give me that (HispanicSlammer?), and I´m sorry I forgot to mesur how long the stock is. I have to check that and come back. Alos one note. As fork leg fully extended the reb stop spring is stoping the movement not the valev rod even they are some shorter useing the F3 rod. So now I just need to do the other leg and fet the proper spacer, maby I made my frien do diffren lenght ones so I can chose the best sutable onec, and not runnung to his shop many times :fing02:

Ok, thanks for that info. I´m seriusly thinking of useing the 5th gen outer body (right one in pic below): As I then get some fork movement as stock, not 10mm extendede. Also I think of cutting the spring spacer (or made new ones) at onec as the spring feels OK for me (I´m not that heavy 73kg) and I had preload adjusted so nearly fully out on the stock fork and spring will be cramped ~20mm comperd to that whit the F3 preload adjuster fully out. Not using the bottom spacer would have helped that by 10mm, but if needed....

Ok, I have one 5th gen fork leg apart and the F3 parts also and did compare them. Here all on the floor, F3 on right, 5th on left side Then I started to compare the damper rod whit rebound valve,The F3 is shorter thanthe 5th gen by ~10mm Then the top caps, the F3 is ~20mm longer than the 5th gens preload adj. fully out. Then the damp rod bodys. As sade before the 5th gen has a additional spacer under this (~10mm spacing). The bodys are same lengt on both but the full out stop spring (rebound spring?, I call it that) is located different. If you put them side by side so botom is at same level and the 5th gens haveing the spacer on (like pic below ,F3 left 5th gen right), the return spring is at same height. That make me think I will leave the spacer out. by that I compensit the 10mm so whit the 10mm shorter damp rod and 20mm longer cap the leangth is the same as stock in teory. Also if I would add the spacer it would allow the fork leg to extend 10mm further. 10mm more travel? On the other side, asemled the 5th gen interials are about 2,5cm longer (whit under spacer) than the F3 package fully out posisson. That meaning the interials (rebound valve) will stop the rebound movmet to full not the rebound spring (the F3 rebound valve is longer than the 5th Gens and not allow the F3 to extend as long as the 5th gen parts). That makes me think of trying to mix. The F3 rebound valve/damper rod whit the 5th gen outer tube ( I find non other differense than the reb spring posisson on them), to get the rebound spring closer. This will shorten the travel by ~10mm thro, but I have not had any problems whit fork botoming out, so maby the risk is worth to take? On the other hand no one clame they have problems as derect use, so why not do like other?

A friend (that do a lot of werch on bikes) manage to make the reb adjuster turn again :goofy: So I´m back on track

Ok, I opened the F3 interials today, but found one not so good thing, other headcaps rebound adjuster is sized, aint moving. I did put some wd40 on and layd it on oil bath. Any other adwise to make it move again?its in full out posision.

This is also my big question right now. I have the F3 iterials (thanks SEB !) just no racetech valves You will REUSE the F3rebound valve atttached to the Rebound adjustment rod.. I did this with a 6th gen and F4 parts. So. F3 interials whit F3 rebound valve and VFR compression valve and VFR spring, and outer upper and lower tubs. Got it right?

This is also my big question right now. I have the F3 iterials (thanks SEB !) just no racetech valves

Ok, thanks for the info. I have to order a 16/43 set then.

Well I seem to have a odd problem, no shop or importer have a 45 thoot sprocket in stock in my country! I was going to change them early next week. So I´m in to ither stock 17/43 or go one down front to 16/43. I was also planing to rise the rear a bit by shiming the upper shock mount. Going down one on front sprocket and riseing rear end, will I have my chain rubbing the swingarm all the time? :wheel:

Att the moment I sitt and wounder if I will get stock 17/43 or 17/45 for my 5th gen. I would like second a bit lower in twists, spechally 2 up, but I will go a lot commuting next season, so how mutch will it effect fule economy?