spud786

Yeah I wouldnt lock tight the pins, heat and corrison could cause freeze up.

Thanks... I changed the front pads since they hadn't been changed in over 20k miles and they looked to me like they were about 75% done, comparing the thickness to the new ones. This was just a guesstimate on my part before I removed the pads. When I removed them, there was probably 3-4 mm of thickness left. How do you know how much more is actually left before hearing squealing or damaging the rotors? Did I change them too early? You can run them till no pad left, but 1mm left is the recommend change interval, but yeah 3 or 4mm, they still had 20,000 mile left.

Yes too much oil can cause hydraulic lock, reducing travel. Im saying on my 43 mm, I run 95 mm oil height and works fine (full travel), 100mm bottoms like smack( DINK).Thats why I dont understand how you are saying run 120mm and the spring rate dont matter. Springs rates always matter in combination with oil height, and oil weight.You'd have to be a feather weight, not to destroy the wheel bearings with 120mm on stock springs, it would bottom so hard and fast. Maybe we arent talking about the same bike, I dont know.

Course your assuming, not running stock springs, 120mm on stock springs or even 100mm, is instant bottoming and blowing through the travel, Just an FYI for those who think of trying with stock fluid weight and springs. Im actually running 95mm on stock springs with ss8, its very usable. The ramp up is there that you talk about at the bottom of stroke, but it fits me well, Thats what I wanted, it's just right. The rear shock I could use alittle more beef , 80 mph 1 1/2 ft deep wash board road, stresses the limitations.

You guys have too much time on your hands, I bought the vfr so I didnt have to wash it. >G Since aluminum frames came out, there have been people who do polish them, The anodised coating seems there for a reason, not to corrode. Maybe an issue and maybe not down the road longer term.

I think this method is the way most shops do it , cause its much quicker. However I dont like breakign seal contacts unless actually replacing seals, and oil heiught is a critical set up, that should be measured accurately(with the forks off and completely vertical). Half a cap of oil, can mean the difference between a fork that works well and one that doesnt. So, I personally do not use this method, for risk of seal leak developement, and accurate oil height measurement.

Not me, I use 1st gear mainly for pulling away from a stop. Lower gearing makes that easier on the clutch, especially with two people up an incline. Taller 1st gear makes very slow traffic a real PIA, not to mention a clutch killer. Yeah, I have no use for two up riding, so I can see in your case.

Id actually prefer first gear taller(its only good to about 60 mph), gearing it down just makes it useless for most purposes, and making the back wheel break loose easier in wet conditions.

The vfr I find , does not have a huge differnce between normal tail light illumination and Brake light illumination, its there, its just not Huge. So Flashing before any braking is very wise to do. BUt Im a Manual guy, I know exactly how I want to flash, when I want to flash, and know how traffic is behaving behind me. As to the question, if you want to take the time to do a vacume switch, it wouldnt be a bad idea, for me not worth the time.

Most people drop the front end 10 mm over stock setting for sharper handling, thats about the most you can do anyway, so you should already be there (non lowered). But measure from the top of the tripple clamp to the top of the fork cap, around 47 mm in height is about the lowest you can go. any lower and the fork dust seal will smash into the bottom tripple clamp on a FULL bottom. Lowering a bike, is the same as castrating a BULL. It will never be right again

when dealing with a Non oring, your 3 prong method is good, But a total waste of time on an oring, cause it doesnt need all those areas throughly saturated. With a non oring you have to ensure lube enters the chain internally, all you need is sprocket metal to metal( contact film) with an anodised oring.

I got it off Amazon through (Riders Needs)

I just recieved my EMGO OEM airfilter, Identical to OEM ,even has the back fire screen. $25 shipped, a Great deal for OEM filter 91170

If you notice stock pads are designed to not need Break in procedure, they have limited contact in the first 1/4% of the pads. But normally I just dont do hard braking for 50 miles or so.

1 cup of vp c12 pertank, doesnt necessarily burn clean, it eats any and all carbon from valves, to head, the cat to tail pipe. I bet if you stick your finger in your tail pipe, your finger will come out black spooge, to (get RID of) requires VPc12.

I just noticed that ford push in rivet you mention, is the same part number I gave , small world!!!!!

MOst mc filters open completely up (unfiltered) under full throttle conditions. I think debating which filters best under these conditions is meaningless. Actually Auto filters can prevent full oil flow under these conditions, cause they have higher pressure requirement to open up and bypass.......

I use some Gm press in plugs, kinda of the same idea, but they simply push in and push out, no complicated fidding, I got them at autozone #961-075 they work Great ,espeically in an area not really seen, they do get alittle cranky with dirt and mud on them. But Ive never had to change them out from wear.

The standard sargent seat doesnt meet my needs to be worth the money , its probably better than the stock unmodified seat though.

Well, I dont run Sport tours on the front, I thought maybe you found a Good Perilli , that I might try I used to run sport tours on the front, but I found the Front Ppowers, are superior in performance , and still get the same milege as many sport tours , or maybe 20% less. Just not worth messing with the sport tours on the front.

Which diablo, theres' about a 1/2 dosen types, if running the track type, naturally it will offer more traction than a Sport tour?

There's definitely tires that work better, the real difference is the Performance Level , for the increased amount of life it offers. Usually 20 to 40% more life over any other. Traction is usually directly related to wear life, some how the road 2 defies this to some degree. I can understand on a lighter weight bike the Proad2 may not have the same grip level. Lets take a BT 21 rear which is half the life of a road 2 rear. If Im running 60 or 70 mph and drop 2 gear and cross double yellow under throttle the road 2 will break loose and spin, the Bt21 rear will not. But I run the road 2, cause of the significant money savings with increased life and normally the traction level is very sound in most conditions,. The Road 2 actually costs more money than the road 2, but factor in double life and the road 2 is factually cheaper to run.

The stock bearings are life time items, if everytime you take the wheel off, you take some gear oil and try to work into the bearings(a tad will get in and thats all you need), greasing the seals and axle is also recommended.

Removal> Blow channel out with an aircompressor, break sparkplug loose half way up the threads, blow out channel again. Then completey unscrew plug and remove, an extended magnet is very valuable. Install> Always start sparkplug counterclockwise, it will drop down into the threads , less risk of cross threading than starting off clockwise. Many wonder how come their plug cam loose down the road. Its because a New gasket does not flully compress the first time you torque, so torque and break the plug lose and retorque, then you'll have no risk of the plug coming lose down the road. I just carefully let the Sparkplug slide down the channel, then with my deep socket and extension, I slide it over the sparkplug , which is much stouter than tubing, but I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat. My vfr is on its 3rd set of plugs. I find the plugs are good till about 40,000 mile, atleast with my Race leaded diet it keeps thenm super clean. I ran a set to over 50,000 miles, and those plugs where damn near disentigrated, yet the bike ran good, they where spotless clean too, no carbon even deep into the plug.

There was a guy on here a few years ago who's cat convertor caught on fire, and burned the bike up nearly. This was because of Carbon Blockage in the Cat. Things known to cause Likely cat failure is Burning of oil, and fuels that produce alot of Carbon or overly rich condition. There is no on the shelve product that can Clean a Cat. If your burning oil, its harmful to your cat via carbon formation.