spud786

What kind of gearing are you running, I can cruise at 102mph just below the 6400 ppm vtec cut in ? course your 02 model cuts in and out at 6800 rpm, which I agree is not preferable, and why they changed it to 6400 cut in and 6100 rpm cut out, in 2006. But generally I go through vtec in every gear, with no transition issue . now if you were in first gear, on really slick condition say ice or really slick road, you could probably get the vtec transition to break traction under heavy throttle. but your biggest issue as mentioned is a modified bike , that's not right with its mapping.

Overall Blackstone rated my Amsoil 10w30 as another nice sample for Mr.RC45... Metals were about the same as my Mobil 1 0w30... there is nothing in the numbers that screams problem... viscosity was a little light but that is nothing to worry about... additive package is rock solid at 10.3... they suggest another 1000 miles and taking another sample... Blackstone knows all oils will shear... they never suggest dumping your oil because its a little light in viscosity... they know it doesn't show up as more wear... Blackstone addvises oil change on the percentile of the anti wear additive package (TBN) that remains in the oil... mine is rock solid at 10.3 so the oil is serviceable for another 1000 miles... if the next sample shows another drop in viscosity that's not a worry... if the next sample shows a drop in the anti wear package down in the 3 to 5 range that's a worry... Quote 540Rat Thicker oil DOES NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of over 130 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. For example, some 5W30 oils have proven to provide OUTSTANDING wear protection, while some 15W50 oils have only been able to provide MODEST wear protection. So, do not run thicker oil under the false assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines. The only problem, where are the results, as I don't see them you say there is a huge power loss with heavier weight oils. But my own results with say 5w40(actually a high 30 weight oil) verses say 20w50, in top speed testing, showed the 20w50 on a fully warm motor actually running faster. and your metal count at such a low mileage definitely gives reason for concern. Most are not going to run sub 1000 mile oci's to keep metal count low, in the uoa's

RedLine 10w30 motorcycle specific oil is a very robust 30 weight... they don't believe its necessary to support it with a 50w... If you look at the viscosity it held a high 30 weight, that wouldn't have happened without the 20w50. If I were to run redline again it would be 2 20w50 and one 10w30, to hold a 40 weight and increase the oci length. why not 10w40? wasn't available when I bought, and redline tends to be slightly heavier than comparative brand viscosities. Now my dirt bike, would get straight 20w50, far harder on oil than the vfr.

As mentioned ignore the lead count, its from leaded fuel, the left side report was 2 quarts redline and one 20w50 redline, not a bad report. if it had been straight 30 weight, the oil would not have done as well, the 20w50 supported the 10w30.

Heres, my 50 horse high strung dirt bike with only 2200 miles on it(still shedding break in debri) with 20w50 oil and only holds one and a half quart(800 miles on oil). Compare this to BLS's 50,000 plus mile vfr with a 30 weight at the same miles. I think the result is clear , my new dirt bike motor sheds less metal than a fully broke in vfr, and that's kinda pathetic if you ask me. Ignore the lead count, its from leaded fuel. I tried to find a couple of 6 and 700 mile oil reports BLS posted on his VFR, looks like they were deleted as they weren't supporting his claims. They were about the same as this report with slightly less mileage, as I say pathetic for a VFR.

Negative... your VFR would meet and exceed your mileage expectations on a 30W... Well, Im still waiting to see yours, your metal count should look hideous with a full oci with your 0w30 car oil , not this 6 or 700 mile stuff. but run it several thousand miles.

You'll never sell me on a 30 weight in a motorcycle that's heavily exercised. Ive already been there and didn't like the results. Heck you already have fans in this thread who've seen the not so great results.

An st1100 is just short of a gold wing, they do pretty good on anything and typically highway only models, or Putt Putt My vfr would destroy that rotella within in 1100 miles. apples and oranges really. But they look similar to car uoa's,

I run 10w40 2 quarts and one 20w50 for longevity. That will hold up 3 or 4000 miles easily, and keep you in a 40 weight range. 30 weights and such shed too much metal for anything other than very short intervals, like sub 1000 miles. Run a normal uoa and watch the metal count pile up. Ive done several uoa's on the vfr, the heavier weight is definitely better with metal counts, and you'll appreciate to supreme motor when its well into its second odometer flip over. Ive yet to see a good uoa on a 30 weight, with a bike thats routinely hammered

New riders should always learn to ride on the slickess, most skiddish tires, that way they develope some traction sense.

both of my oems have gone well over 50,000 miles, I have a new one sitting by my desk

For the most part, that transition is totally seamless on many bikes. I saw some harsh engagement when my 06 was new, in the first couple thousand miles. Not always but hard enough to hurt my hands, a few times it hit so hard. One time Sub 3000 miles , I was in 29 degree weather and had been riding for 25 miles or so. Accelerated hard in first to get up to speed on the highway, and the bike hit so hard , it could have broken a motor mount, I mean hard, but after about 4,000 miles, those occasional episodes disappeared. IMO never adjust the vtecs(valves) if you want to touch the standard valves okay, but avoid the vtecs., I think that's the reason mine stopped doing that after a few thousand miles. But any fueling deficiencies can also bring out issues in that area, and an 06 with low mieage has been sitting way too much for its own longterm health with fueling. Any 06 should have well over 100,000 miles , you might also try disconnecting the battery so the bike recalibrates

Yeah its a simple mod and increases oil flow substantially through the tensioner, I got a KTM 500 at the beginning of the year, and it sees most the mileage, these days, like 7,000 miles worth thus far, vfr gets ridden weekly, but just to keep fuel flowing through it, maybe only a few thousand miles. I spent more time in that thread reopening the tensioner trying to get the missing cap, but the oil flow mod has been excellent.

pulling in the clutch also slows you down, it could still very easily be a front or rear tire out of balance. A rear tire out of balance will feel virtually the same as a front out of balance, you can still feel it in the bars. Finding a shop that will spend the time accurately static balance a tire, will be hard to find, if at all.

Course the worst is all the broken bones, and proof a 500 lb bike will hurt ya, if you crash it.

Increase the oil port in the gasket to 2.75mm , other wise dry lube scenario will have it rattling again, the next day , a week , or within a couple months.

You don't wind the tensioner to remove only lock it in place, so it doesn't extend any more.

you should fully compress the tensioner, with a screwdriver, install the key to hold it , Mount the tensioner, remove the key at it will go where it needs to go, very simple.

Yeah the video sounds like a cct, not bad yet though .

OEM only, need it to work the first time, and last the longest.

looks like your main fuse connector is also developing heat, better take care of it while there. Once the connectors burn like that one its toast. the whole key to all the Honda connectors is ensure a good clean mechanical contact and then hit them with wd40, Im well over 110,000 miles , all original connectors. I do this with all my bikes, its not just a Honda thing, they will all do it. I bought a new stator 6 months ago, assuming the 2nd stator would be close to failure, still sitting on it, it wont fail

I was being sarcastic about the OEM 520 sprocket. Until Honda comes out with the HRC kit for the VFR, if we want performance and or lightweight items aftermarket manf are our option. 520 may be a foolish choice for you, but it is great for my needs with great weight saving and wear. If you were interested in weight and performance , I don't see the reason for a vfr to begin with. But I always get a kick out of the vfr people who want to mount a dirt bike chain. Otherwise its all oem and a DID zvmx 530, nothing is going to beat that longevity wise.

may sure that you are on a high ohm setting, checking 3 yellow wires to ground, or you can miss a short.

If the bike is past 10,000 miles, and using heavier weight oils, the filters normally run pretty clean, cause you aren't shedding as much metal as thinner weight oils. I normally do 2500/3000 mile oil change intervals, but normally don't change the filter till around 8,000 miles or so, doing the math that's about 3 oil changes on a filter.