Captain 80s

Hmmmm..... something doesn't seem right. The collar should be vulcanized into the rubber of the bushing. If worn / damaged, the whole bushing gets pressed out and replaced. The inner collar is not meant to spin or be removed from the bushing.

The only thing it sounds like 29 year old you did wrong was not use a torque wrench. Hell, a couple of the bolts I don't bother on either because the access is so bad. The lower clevis mount used to bug me too, it didn't make sense. Why would every other bolt have a bearing and shaft and allow for movement? I have the correct parts, nothing is missing and there is a torque value in the Service Manual. It was designed by Honda that way and I just stopped worrying about it. With it all assembled, the movement is smooth and not binding. I realized that it doesn't need to pivot. The way the linkage is designed, everything else is responsible for pivoting. What little fore/aft movement the shock does need is handled by the upper shock mount.

No rabbit hole. Just experience. Don't turn this into something it's not. Starting points is all we're talking about. Respectfully, I was not trying to make this an oil thread. PLEASE DON'T.

A 110/90-16? Who puts that tire back on? What is the difference from a 120/80-16? Slide the forks up 10mm to start. I'm all about getting that ass in the air, but the geometry of that bike can take getting the front down a bit too. Plus you don't need it tilting at 45 degrees on the side stand with the stock 18" rear. I have some VFRs with forks slid up more than that with a 2.5-17 wheel and there are no clearance issues and it is solid as can be with zero hints of any head shake.

If the shock still has rebound and compression damping and is not leaking, great. If you had a shop near you to recharge the nitrogen, that would be cool. Full service on the Fox Shocks is getting expensive these days, I have 3 I need to have done for future projects. $$$ Thor Lawson's Service Fox Parts Stock length on the 86 is 265mm, 87 is 275. The 87 has a different linkage piece (the one that connects to the shock) to compensate, both bikes have the same ride height. Installing a 87 shock on a 86 for extra rear ride height was a popular choice on a budget, and the 87 shock was a "better" shock, the damping circuits were separate. Old tech now, obviously. Your Fox Twin Clicker is/was a great shock. I would set yours to at least 275, or whatever it is now if already longer.

You can absolutely slide everything apart, clean (tub of gas and a toothbrush) and regrease the bearings, shafts and seals without damaging the seals. Been doing it for decades. The linkage bearings have a limited travel range and the needle bearings spread the load so much, they rarely "wear out". I have never had to replace bearings or seals after cleaning and inspection. Some shafts might show some wear patterns, but it is not anything that is usually detectable by measuring or tactile "inspection".

Merica!!!

Love it!

With the shock out and the wheel off, did you ever identify where it hits that stops further swingarm extension? That is your answer. That is the difference between your two bikes. Whether it is something that can be addressed and improved is another question. There could be a change between those years (exhaust?), that didn't matter regarding swingarm extension with a stock length shock.

Yet, here you are. So.... Thursdays are "safe" days? 😉

Man, the cert expires and a tumbleweed rolls thru VFRDeadwood.

Not in my world. FUCK FB.

Thank you for all of your hard work and time maintaining a great platform. I joined in November 2005... almost 20 years ago! I learned a bunch and passed on some knowledge too. Exactly what makes these forums great. Enjoy life and thanks again. -Mike

This is the exhaust thread. He's talking about eye candy encouragement for people considering getting in on the next run of exhausts.

There is weirdly a distinct lack of "bearing houses" in the US. Well, at least here in the PNW. But I do still kit my own quality wheel bearings and seals.

This. ^ Every time a customer or friend has said, "I must have got a bad seal", my eyes can't roll back in my head far enough. "Did you inspect the tube for rock dings or nicks and stone them out?" Cue the dumbest, blankest look you can imagine right now. There's usually a very apparent reason your seal failed if you've been riding the bike and it hasn't failed from sitting for years and then bringing the bike out of hibernation. And when I take their forks apart because "they give up", I find rock dings and terrible workmanship. I don't know how many installs or miles it will take to move some aftermarket seals into the category of, "hmmmm.... maybe they are just fine." For some people, never I suppose. That's fine, cuz it's not my money or time and it doesn't really matter to me I suppose. But I own about 40 bikes, 12 of them VF/VFRs. The costs add up and there are real savings for me when building or servicing another bike, with no apparent repurcussions I've experienced. Rock dings (and super hard dried bugs) happen, but it's never been a seal's fault for me. Flame me. Ridicule me. Tell me, "you'll see". Fine, I'll be here building another VFR.

Same. I installed both a bushing and seal kit in some CBR600F2 forks on a front end swap as an experiment. Zero issues in 7 years.

I keep them on a lot of my bikes when they don't look totally out of place, but I find I'm wanted to clean some things up that didn't use to bother me as much. Probably because I'm buying and building more bikes that never had them.

I'm interested to hear the feedback regarding what a real radiator guy has to say about these units, and the fitment report from you.

On the "RC26" I cut the mount off and blended away the remnants. Wasn't fun to make it look good, but the end result is clean and tucks in really nice.

Around here they apparently think they have a doctorate in PC and charge accordingly. And then can't follow the simplest instructions (and markings on the parts) regarding masking and then they get the cheapest person on the payroll to "remove" their fuck ups and refinish the parts. Typically the surfaces that shouldn't have finish are some of the most critical to remain flat and pristine. I think there are some true hot rod PC-ers up a few counties that can identify that machined surfaces typically shouldn't get powder. But I'm not driving or paying anymore. Not when I get the look, quality, and durability I want at home with paint.. In my area, most are Aerospace or Industrial outfits. It is SO FRUSTRATING to have someone look you in the face and tell you they understand completely and it will be done right, to have it not. Not even close.

I've looked and tried a lot of paints to get an "exotic" look. The original finish is very hard to duplicate and I am fucking done with powder coaters. I had to be something I could spray,

I am SO SICK of rebuilding brakes (and cooling systems). Seems it's all I've been doing last few years. This is hopefully my last set for a while! The brakes for my next 2 projects are done. I hate brake fluid.

Yeah... not cheap I suppose. 😉