Captain 80s

I guess I should tell my warm hands that. Don't think they'll care, just like me.

Perhaps a plate for the silencer with high-heat 3M. It could accompany the plate of the muffler of choice (or even replace it). Thin enough to custom shape for the curvature of the specific muffler before applying. Our planner at work laser engraves thin metal business cards, I had him put a Honda wing on mine.

That's a little harsh. Just cuz you don't like the idea doesn't mean they don't work well for different people in different circumstances. I don't ride enough in the cold to want to plug in clothing and have cords hanging out. But every now and then, the heated grips on my ST1100 certainly don't feel really dumb. They feel really nice. And they are a just a push of a button away when I want them. And when I don't, I'm still wearing my favorite gloves.

EMGO (or Genuine Honda) mirrors for the 2000-2001 VFR. Bolt on, no condoms. Just flip the rubber spacer and it will better match the profile of the base. I can take a close up pic later if you want.

Everything, including the gas cap and petcock. The bolts that attach it to the frame might be the same

The FZ600 bits will look SICK on there. Can't wait to see.

And the fact that it is about 6 inches too high for my aesthetics. BUT... that is a cool RZ!!! My general rule of thumb is, top of the headlight even with the top of the tank.

I don't think I would continue to use that E-free supply,

Please explain what the F that means. You can never get all the fuel out when you just drain a tank, so that's exactly where any water will still be pooled... below where fuel is getting pulled from. How much water do you think you have in your tank? And like I said, there is no way I can always guarantee e-free fuel. Also I can't guarantee that bike will be one that gets used the next season. So, I drain carbs.

I sometimes use it for short to medium length storage, but I still drain my carbs every winter, except for my 2 or 3 Winter bikes. I've read for LONG term storage there may be better products, but I've never had a problem. I have a 35 gallon gas pump on wheels in my outer shop. I fill it with non-ethanol, lead substitute, and the lighter ratio of Stabil. It is for my vintage bikes, lawn equipment, hanging remote gas bottle and "emergencies". In our area non-ethanol is too rare to be able to always run it exclusively on rides. But my vintage bikes rarely go farther than a tank, so the in-shop gas pump has been great.

I do like that one better for sure, but I'm not lovin' the angle of the signature Yamaha stripe. Too droopy, it looks like a generic "Yamaha Stripe" you apply to any bike and cut out vent holes and my Aunt did it. I know they were going for a "TZ" look, but meh. Forward and down, like a Yamaha Race Bike.

It's a race livery tribute... "beautiful" isn't necessarily the mission. I never really liked the XSR900, I thought it was ugly. But that treatment gives just enough late 80s / early 90s vibe for Captain 80s to make it ok. MUCH rather have an FZR400... in any color.

I certainly don't hate it, actually quite like it. I think the tail could be little longer. Also, I found this picture of a Marlbolo FZR400 with the correct tail size and similar paint for reference.. And to say it looks nothing like a tribute?...

Your VFR when finished.

I finally had to search... what the fuck are Grip Puppies? Yeah, no. I don't have hand issues, but if something lets you ride a VFR after you've explored options... go for it.

That's where I bought mine. Best price at the time (2021-ish) and one of the only places that had vendors that showed availability.

I "lost" a throttle side Oxford grip using their glue. I thought I was ready and prepared, but it set as I was quickly (or so I thought) sliding it into position. When I say "set" I mean became ONE with the throttle tube. Replacement grips are not cheap, be careful. I ended up using a 3M super adhesive that was great to work with and has not moved. I thought the left side on the steel bar didn't "take", as I checked it 2 days later. I rotated it back and forth a little and thought "fuck". Well that last movement was what it needed apparently, the next morning it was SOLID. I had sanded the bar with emery cloth and scored in some "X"s using the edge of a file for something the adhesive to grip to. All the reading I have done, it's usually that left grip that gives grief down the road.

Left to right: Driving lights - Toggle for switched power to energize relay from battery. Heated grips - Toggle for switched power relay. Redundant, think I was just using up an empty toggle at the time, controller can power off. USB port - Tapped into clock so port can be used with key off, but on toggle to not always drain. Volt meter - So I don't have to stare at it. Hidden behind the Oxford controller and Volt meter: Fan switch - parallel to original thermo switch Fuel Cut Relay - override, also parallel There is a really nice nearby space under the air box cover, right behind upper triple to bundle connections and leads.

@Terry What adhesive did you use on the left grip? Well... both I guess. The left has been the more difficult one when using level 4 or 5. The right, which is pretty much plastic on plastic seems to be less finicky.

The Touring had nice, long leads. Was able to route a nice meandering hidden path and still coil a little extra lead. Nice with the Helibars on the ST.

I'm just a little South of you, and for the most part I agree. Buuuuuut... goddamn it's nice sometimes! Even if it's not even close to freezing. I just wanted the option and this is my Sport Touring bike. I'm more apt to take this out in less than ideal conditions.