V4 Rosso

Yeah, it is quite common on those fast and furious wanabee racers I think it looks funny. :+1: There are actually quite a few bead en hump designs. Here is a page that has some more in depth information. Heated tires can blow out at less than double the max rated pressure. Granted, you do not heat them before installation, but tripling the pressure is recipe for disaster. http://www.kentool.com/demos/cage_demo.mpg

Next time try some starting fluid

Yes, very informative. I've never bedded the brakes in on my VFR, only on my ATB and it makes a huge difference both in stopping power and longevity. With my next new pads I'll follow this procedure too on the VFR.

That's good news. I hope you have enough spare time to finish her up and put some miles on her before heading back to HK.

Instead of a fan you can install an electric water pump that keeps the coolant flowing at a decent rate regardless of engine rpm.

With putting a resistor in line with the cop you not only decrease the current but also the voltage and the total impedance also changes. I am not sure by what amount a voltage drop influences the spark. You would need high power resistors like these. Again, starting out with just one cop and resistor might be worth a try. Hard to say if the overheating coils were the cause of the ICM getting fried. After the roadside repair it ran great, didn't it?

The pulse generator is attached to the crankshaft so the (TCI) ICM only knows the crankshaft position, not what stroke it is on (in the 4 stroke cycle), for that you also need a camshaft position sensor or something similar and I can't find one in the wiring diagram. That means the ICM with one coil per spark plug is not a wasted spark type of system, but it does fire the plugs twice per cycle, not a big deal. As mentioned before, when decribing the differences between TCI & CDI (reply #73),a TCI coil takes some time to charge: dwell time. The ICM takes care of this and uses the TPS signal to calculate engine rpm so it knows exactly when to start charging the coil so it reaches maxmimum current at the time of ignition. with a TCI system, ignition occurs when the charging current of the primary coil is suddenly switched off. What can happen when you replace the coil for one that has different specs like a lower primary coil resistance and/or lower impedance is that the ICM will put more current through the coil and may overheat. Below is a sketch of what the charging current curve may look like. Top is with the regular coil, bottom is a COP with the specs as decsribed above: less resistance and lower impedance. Due to the lower impedance the current will rise quicker and due to the lower resistance the maximum current will reach a higher level and possibly will reach that higher level "long" before ignition. This can possibly overheat both the coil and the ICM. The hatched surface below the curve represents the amount of energy the ICM has to put out. I am not saying that you will fry your ICM, but when it happens you now at least know of one possible cause of why it happened Isn't there a shop on base where you can work on your bike with maybe the assistance of someone who can operate a scope? You could swap one coil for a COP and then compare the currents between the two. Electronics can withstand higher operating temperature for some time, use that when testing the COPS by only using one COP at a time and swapping it between the cilinders. Btw, are 6th gen COPS not an option? It looks like they have a very low profile which can be useful behind the radiator, and maybe they fit the 3rd-4th gen head well.

0,8V is OK. If it is defective, nine out of ten don't produce any voltage at all.

Two examples of how improper installation procedures may cause premature failure. When the balls are under pressure while installing the wheel bearings, they put presure on the wrong race. Beating the bearing into it's (aluminum) seat can easily damage the seat. I haven't used hybrids on the VFR but I have them (Si3N4) installed in my mountainbike. Yes they last a lot longer than regular bearings and when dirt does get past the seals it doesn't immediately ruin the bearings. They offer hardly any reduced friction as it seems most of the friction comes from the seals. I too always put some grease behind the the dust seals of the VFR front wheel, not to reduce friction but to keep them in a good shape for a longer period.

Didn't see this topic before. That is good to know that the compressor can be separated from the horn. I think this way I can find enough space for it to fit behind the fairings.. Thanks for the write up

Yes, all Honda motorcycles from >=1990 have no problem using E10. Same for Triumph and Yamaha, HD: all models after 1980. Ther is a VFRD member from Brasil (with a VTEC) and Brasil has had >20% percent ethanol for years. I never heard him about ill effects of using high ethanol mix fuel. For winter storage E10 is better than E5 is it can absorb more water, of course ethanol free is even better but over here not available anymore.

I once tried to surf square waves...