kaldek

The LED lights consume a lot less energy than the previous halogen bulbs. Lower amperage => less heat (stator) & less thermal stress on the RR. TECHNICALLY, not consuming the output of the stator is what causes heat. Probably explains why they will likely drop the stator output.

If you think that's good you should ride a K1300.

This is by my local state safety body, and it's probably the first campaign they've had that I have no problem with.

Geez just fit a series regulator and be done with it.

I recommend watching these two videos of mine that will help you determine if the problem is the wax unit:

I always removed mine and then hit the radiator with a hose to flush the motor for a couple of minutes. Does it make a difference? Who knows.

I've got a SW-Motech centrestand fitted to my K1300R. It is truly a bitch to get onto the stand compared to my 6th-gen VFR, even with good technique. The Motech stand for my bike also makes it lean 5 degrees over to the right. Truly. I'm not the only owner with one of these stands to notice that problem either. Ergo I guess the point I'm making is that the Motech stand designs may not be the best.

Now that's an excessive reaction to seat fitment.

Kickstarter price was $999 for a first run unit.

http://www.tested.com/tech/3d-printing/458406-meet-othermill-desktop-cnc-milling-machine/ Interesting stuff - not for huge parts but for things like block off plates it would be great.

Yes, same effect. Block the hose any way you like and no air can flow.

I have a video on this exact topic for you. The simple answer is that #4 is adjusted with the idle speed screw (under the right-hand side fairing below your knee). The other three valves are adjusted in reference to #4. This is explained here:

If that's the same shop I'm thinking of (City Auto Electrical) they quoted me $800 to rewire my stator. It's much cheaper to just buy a replacement stator (wreck, or even new off the Internet) and one of the new Series regulators from Shindengen.

My GOD people, I just read this thread and everyone is concerned about the "gaps in the plastic you can see from the side of the bike". You guys do realise these are the HELMET LOCK holes, right? You're supposed to slip the D-ring of your helmet over the metal hook under the seat (on the subframe) and then you lock the seat down. The design is actually a bit wrong because most helmets can't reach the hook, but to overcome this you carry around a couple of 13mm or 14mm spanners which are open-ended on one end and and closed-ended on the other. You slip the closed-end through the helmet D-ring and hook the closed end over the hook under the seat. Note the black tape around the spanner which stops it from rubbing on the paintwork.

Nice work fellas. So did the info we shared via PM help with picking a direction or was I just coming across as the crazy Aussie?

4 pin red plug usually means Data Link Connector to the ECU. Used for diagnostics.

You should ask member MVinOZ if he wants to sell the stock 2006 shock I just sold him as part of all the parts he bought off me!

Don't go there - the 6th-gen coils on the 5th-gen motor are a total pain in the ass. I think it's MiniCarver who is doing it at the moment and we've had a bunch of discussions about the issues. Nah. Dry weight for a 2002 was 212kg. If you eradicate the exhaust (8-10kg) and stock subframe (about the same), you're under 200kg dry. Yup, it's already blocked off with those anodized plates on top of the rocker covers. Airbox will need a small rubber cap over the PAIR hose hole too (rear left of airbox) to complete the job.

I've got one of those. It's called a BMW K1300.

The website at Shindengen specifically labels it as a "series" regulator. http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/catalog.html Go to the above page and search for "775".

Totally normal behaviour. Very common that you need to engage the clutch a little to grab gears other than 1st and 2nd at a standstill.

For reference, here is what the wire colours indicate on the VFR800 harness: Red/White: Main power feed from Regulator to Engine Stop Relay Black/White: Common +12volt for EFI systems from Engine Stop Relay The black/white wire leads to nearly everything in the EFI system. This includes the ECU itself, coils, injectors, EVAP solenoid, O2 Sensor heater circuits, PAIR solenoid, and the fuel pump (although it converts from Black/White to Brown as it exits the Fuel pump relay). Note that all the EFI systems controlled by the ECU are ground-switched; that is, the ECU controls the circuit by switching the ground on and off, and it's the ground wires for each component which are controlled by the ECU - except for the fuel pump which is relay-switched.

You may want to do a bit of searching on shaft drive failures in general before you make that assumption. At least with a chain you can see if it's got a serious issue before it leaves you stranded for 7 hours waiting for a tow or worse. Yep, those car drivers don't know what they're missing. Seriously though, suggesting that shaft drives are bad because you can't see what's going on is a silly argument. Aside from chain driven motorcycles, everything else on the planet is a shaft drive.

That Alu Rack is REALLY nice! Is it a quick release for the top case on that mount? Alu-Rack is a permanently mounted plate which allows for quick release of adapter plates that mount to it. One of those is the Givi adapter. All the cases are quick release from the adapter.

No it defaults to an assumption of 28 degrees C. That's the correct way to measure it and the pressure looks fine. I should add, it's worth trying another bike's ECU. If your bike doesn't have HISS, you can just do a temporary swap-out of any 2006+ American bike. Only takes as long as it does to get the side fairing off and back on again.