CalumL

This sounds concerning, certainly not something that I have experienced while riding a bike. I'd say definitely worth getting yourself checked out, you certainly wouldn't want it to get to the stage where you lost consciousness while riding. Best wishes for a speedy resolution.

I also have one fitted to my bike, neat and tidy and unobtrusive. There is a bike shop seller on Ebay (UK) with a few for sale for the 8th Gen if it is of interest. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-REAR-HUGGER-VFR800X-VFR800F-2014-2020-08F70-MJM-D10-RRP-95-/293486961129?norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153696-560033-8&mkcid=2&keyword=&crlp=355246904589_&MT_ID=&geo_id=&rlsatarget=dsa-764521878456&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=9046802&poi=&abcId=&cmpgn=2033188068&sitelnk=&adgroupid=71572595973&network=g&matchtype=b&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgtWDBhDZARIsADEKwgN-324hHvVtNpdmvMfLppufILugGXzTPz-RP8q8CuX1GhUpTF4jKOQaAvJYEALw_wcB

An update as promised. My 2nd hand instrument cluster arrived this morning. I plugged it in and everything works exactly as it should. If I hadn't been able to pick one up with similar mileage and not too expensive it might have been work trying to dig deeper to see about dismantling the board but this was a quick win. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, the neutral light is working, I also checked the voltage at the battery with the bike running. A nice and healthy 14.5 volts. I had removed the back of the instrument cluster to see if I could get access to the board, it doesn't seems that I would be able to get access to both sides of the board without damaging the plastic pegs that hold it in place, it slides over some, but the others are moulded to retain it. As a new instrument panel is £1500 from Honda I had a look on Ebay for a 2nd hand one, I managed to find one with a similar mileage to mine for £250 so should be able to plug it in later this week when it arrives for confirmation/fix. Thanks for your advice, I'll keep you updated.

I made use of the ACC socket as per this post and wired mine into the switched option.

Vfr 800 F-E (2015) This evening the speedometer and information displays went blank and don't illuminate, likewise the tacho is not registering the engine revs. The bike starts and runs with no issue but when turned on the display does not light up and the tacho does not do the sweep and I don't have any of the Engine light, Oil pressure light ABS or traction control lights. . When indicators, main beam etc are used the corresponding light illuminates on the panel. I have followed the steps in the Service manual and have:- 1. Checked the fuses, all good and the meter one when removes stops the other associated items (tail light) and they come back on when re-inserted 2. Removed the meter panel and performed the checks from 20-9 in the service manual as follows:- I get 12 V on the power input line (white/green wire) when ignition is switched on and nothing when off 12V on the back up voltage (red/green wire) at all times Continuity to the battery negative from the ground line (Green/Black wire) I then Checked the serial Communication Line Step 1 no continuity when both connectors are disconnected (as expected) Step 2 Serial Communication Line Open Circuit lnspection Check for continuity between the wire harness side 20P (Gray) connector [1] and ECM 33P (Gray) connector [2] terminals. If I am reading this correctly, I should be testing the meter connector to the ECM connector to make sure there is no broken wire, I get continuity. But the expected results state ls there continuity? YES - Loose or poor contact on the related connectors, NO - Open circuit in the Whlte wire between the combination meter and ECM. I'm uncertain as to what this test means, as I would have expected that continuity was good and meant that there was no broken wire between the meter and the ECM. Have I either misunderstood the test or is there a misprint in the manual? I am suspected that I may have a faulty meter unit, is this probable and are there any further tests that I can/should do to be certain?

AGM every time, Lithium has too many real world compromises with only one advantage, reduced weight. But it is in a sports tourer and not a MotoGP bike so that benefit is redundant too.

and looks to wear it's mileage well.

I read that you had dropped the bike and them quickly glanced at the pictures and thought "Oh no, expensive" fortunately I read on, it's all for access. Still not a good feeling, but at least you got away with it relatively well.

Available here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Honda-VFR800F-2014-2019-VFR1200-2010-2016-Rear-Carrier-Top-Box-Rack-/283307250283 The seller is a genuine Honda dealer and the listing states that they ship to the US. You may of course be subject to import tax into the US.

I would expect that if they were good in June, then they should be good now, especially if you make sure it is just a gentle ride down to the tyre place. Just make sure that they are up to the correct pressures, have no flat spots (if they had lost pressure) or cracks and you should be good to go. I know what you mean about the weather, but hopefully you will be able to find a suitable break in the weather soon.

As a penetrating fluid WD40 is not necessarily the best, you'd be best getting a specific product. I'm guessing that since it hasn't moved out for 3 years it is minus an MOT, so a ride down to the garage and them using their air tools to impact it off is not an option?

Result!!

It might also be worth checking the wiring route of the current switch to see whether it is not quite right and snagging and putting some extra strain on the wires when the handlebars are turned.

That looks a bit naughty. Is that broken in a place that will allow a repair?