Das Bone

We really try to avoid using that one as I know of a couple of horror stories that have happened because a cager got very pissed off. :wheel: I'm a litttle surprised(pleasantly) to hear that others do use the same "slow the group down to gap the cars" or the "pull off and wait to gap the cars" techniques as it seems like everyone that I've tried to explain the rationale behind it to out here seemed to think I was speaking Swahili or something :goofy: What do you Mods think...should we do some sort of sticky with this stuff to make it available to everyone?

"Like minds"......or is that "Simple minds"? :wheel: Maybe we should do a sticky of the "Pace" and the "Corner/Traffic Strategies" to help spread the ideas around. Kind of a "Street Strategies for the Sport Rider" sticky. Might be a cool thing to have in the "Riding Techniques" forum for everyone to refer to. I think I might need to do a better job on the write up though :joystick: I could take what I had begun before and redo some of what I did today and combine????? Just a thought............

Had to get to work so I didn't get to finish. I've been working on an actual write up about this but haven't finished yet but here's the basic gist. Works well for us so maybe it will for others. For reference, I'm all about corners(big surprise).....For me this is what I love most about riding.......by far. So, this means that I want to take advantage of just about any curve in the road :P ........cars can and do create problems in this area <_< . If you get stuck behind a car or series of cars in the twisties chances are they will slow you down immensely thereby ruining your cornering fun.....which is just not acceptable :P We use 3 different techniques to avoid getting stuck behind cars in the twisties. #1 We all know and use this one......pass over the double yellow or use the passing lane to get around said car(s). This works great much of the time, and we use it quite often. Sometimes though this technique may not be all that practical for numerous reasons, i.e. no "safe" way to pass due to blind corners, road conditions, oncoming traffic, etc. as well as too many cars bunched up to be able to get around or not enough space for anyone other than the leader to get by and on and on.....oh, and that it's a nasty ticket if you get nailed in terms of passing over the double yellow. So, assuming that Option #1 is not going to work at this point, here's the other two little strategies. Here's the scenario: Some great corners are coming up but there are cars in front of you that you're not going to be able to get around(refer to previous paragraph)for one reason or another. #2 The leader checks to make sure that there's no traffic approaching from the rear of the group, and basically just slows the group WAY down to allow the traffic up ahead to get even further up ahead as to create a gap. Once the traffic up ahead has been given enough time clear atleast some of the area, the leader can then pick up the pace and the group can rail through the corners. This technique can be repeated as often as necessary(traffic from the rear permitting) to allow a sporting pace in the corners where the fun really is. Essentially the group is sacrificing the straights for the corners. #3 is really just an extreme version of #2. If the situation is such that there's either: 1) just too many cars up ahead and are going so slowly that regardless of how much the leader slows the group down, you're still not going to get to enjoy most of the corners...or 2) if there's just too much traffic behind for the leader to be able to slow the group down without causing problems for other motorists behind the group............. The leader just pulls the group off the road onto the shoulder and waits until the road ahead clears out enough to be able to run through the twisties at speed. Sometimes we wait for a very short period of time, sometimes for a minute or two, i.e whatever's required to give the group a "gap". We use these little "tricks" all the time as needed in conjunction with our "Pace" style ride and find that, if done right our group is able to enjoy quick cornering speeds in almost all the corners on our route for that day. I apologize for being a bit wordy but hope that it makes some sense.

Good point, but I do know of atleast three or four forums that it's posted as a sticky on. Not proof that it's O.K. but one could assume that if it wasn't they would have been told to remove it by now? I might be able to find out if it would be O.K. for sure if needed?

Sounds interesting...do you know specifically what it's called? On my second go around of resealing my bottle I used "Devcon Multi Purpose Silicone Adhesive S-12-/12045" that I got from Home Depot....so far so good...fingers crossed of course

:beer: it's my favorite technique etc. book. The last chapter you mention where he does talk about the Pace is different than the original Pace article....it's almost like an addendum B) Everyone should have that book too!

Wow, I didn't realize that so many people were unaware of the Pace. Bailey, maybe we should put a sticky/link or something for it on VFRD :goofy: When I first read the Pace, I thought that it seemed like the smartest approach to riding sport bikes on the street. The main group that I rode with was kind of attempting to do something along the Pace lines without actully knowing it, so when I discoverd the Pace it was like the Holy Grail :P There it was...already written out etc. I had ridden the balls out as fast as you can into the corner style and actually was finding, as well as the rest of our group, that at the end of the day, riding the Pace style was more fun and lees stressful that what we had been doing. Do we ever get on it and deviate from the Pace...sure(the last run up Mulholland from PCH I made didn't adhere to the Pace) but the majority of the time we use the Pace as a general guideline for our group rides. Lewis, when we did the VFRD group ride back a few months ago the Pace that I led us at especially on the way up with the large group was definitely on the slow side of our normal Pace. On the way home we picked it up more and that would have been like a "medium" Pace version. Our quick Pace is faster than that. We tend to fluctuate depending on how big the group is and or how experienced everyone is etc. as well as if any of the group has ridden together(especially with a Pace style ride) and adjust accordingly B) As I mentioned in the other thread that Bailey was refering to, we've got some addtional little tricks that we've added to our rides in terms of getting the most out of sport riding(corners) and using a bit of strategy to allow us to run the majority of corners at speed while avoiding traffic.

The "street sport riding Bible"......the "Holy Grail of sport riding on the street" :P :thumbsup: B)

Nice job....creative stuff like you've come up with is great. Kudos to ya B)

:thumbsup: For those that are saying that frame sliders might be worse than without......well sure it's possible. There's absolutely no guarantees with this kind of thing as there are just too many variables in a get off/ drop/crash. Anything can happen. There was an article in one of the UK mags about this exact argument and there conclusion was that in 80% of the cases, the sliders were felt to have been a benefit in the outcome. I'm not trying to suggest that anyone get sliders...that's an entirely personal choice.....but let others make their choice based on common sense and real world stories...and of course realizing that regardless of having sliders, you're bike can still get trashed :P FWIW, in my one case of essentially a drop(having to stop very quickly to avoid hitting a downed rider in front of me on a cambered downhill corner) and a few other cases I know of of actual get-offs that other riders have had, the sliders in all of these particular cases did their respective jobs and definitely minimized damage.

I think you're confusing the MV's with some of the "panel protector" units. The MV's use the rear most engine mount bolt (there are two ya know) that's just like the engine bolt that you use for your R&G's...it's just a few inches further to the rear of the bike. So, I don't know where you think a bracket is involved? Exactly the same mounting situation as the R&G's. As I mentioned above, the difference is that the R&G's use a solid rod that goes all the way through the "engine" per say....to which I refered to above as "way sturdy"(that's a compliment BTW) and that the R&G's came with a premodded coolant bottle, that due to their more forward mounting postion just has the leading edge cut out and resealed, i.e. the customer does not have to deal with modding the coolant bottle, but one does have to remove the R&G's to remove the fairing, and finally that they are more expensive which is all factual. So like I said, it seems like you're confusing or misunderstanding about the MV's which I'm not sure how you could have due to all the posts and info on this thread and others that have been on the same topic. Personally, I feel that members here should get accurate info so that's why I felt the need to correct what you had said and provide factual info about these units. Read these post and the others on sliders and I think you'll see that you misinterpreted some stuff somewhere along the way. B)

No, with the MV's you do not have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings.

I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :beer: border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly

Kevin, Hard to know for sure, but I think your concerns might be valid. The R&G sliders from the UK are somewhat similar to what you describe but their design incorporates a solid rod that runs all the way through the engine mount position from one side to the other, so it's "way" sturdy. They also use the more forward of the engine mount bolt positions and they give you a "modded" coolant bottle that basically just has the top corner removed and resealed. So, I guess what I'm suggesting is that if you want to avoid the coolant bottle mod and would prefer the smaller hole drilled in the fairing then the "proven" R&G setup might be a safer bet. Yes, you do have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings and yes they do stick out a bit further that the MV's, and they are quite a bit more expensive, but you do get their modded coolant bottle etc. I guess I'd be leary to try and take something like the sliders you've shown and try and "make" them fit/work for something they weren't designed for. Like I said, hard to know for sure of course but I think I'd be worried about the same things you mentioned. BTW, changing subjects but Scootr has mailed off his chainguard and I've got a number for a painter so I've got to talk to him but................... :thumbsup:

Nice job! :thumbsup: What did you use as a sealant/bond on your coolant bottle?

Yes you are..........that's why I used a smaller hole saw to try and avoid having to deal with the angles, and then used the drum sander to increase the hole and keep it very clean. As Teleskier mentioned, drilling can be done from the inside of the fairing too to avoid using painters tape etc.. I used a laser level to mark my pilot hole location so I was marking from the outside of the fairing. Generally fairing holes are drilled from the outside going in especially on bikes with graphics(most 600's and 1000's) because going from the inside out would have a tendency to mess up the sticker type graphics on the outside of the fairing. Not an issue here for our VFR's so I guess you can go at it which ever way makes the most sense for you. Good luck...just take your time.....you know "measure 3 times...drill once" :P

I did mine with a hand drill......the only difference was that I used a 1 3/4" hole saw(pilot hole drilled first of course) to avoid some of those "wierd" angles :P and then used a 1 3/4" drum sanding bit a gradually increased the hole size to get it where I was happy with the fit. I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons. No problem doing it by hand.....just take your time and work carefully B)

Kaldek asked me to put some of the pics form my MV install up so here's a few. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> 100_0010.JPG border='0' alt='user posted image' /> 100_0008.JPG MV Frame slider install border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Finished MV slider install He also asked for a pic of my coolant bottle so I'll put the original one up here, but I did have to redo the sealant as the stuff I used started to leak after a while <_< border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Coolant bottle mod #2 border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Coolant bottle mod for MV frame sliders

I've got one that I didn't/haven't used and it holds about 300ml at the top which is the amount that the OEM bottle holds at the "low" level mark.