VFR750

Squirrelman was pretty blunt, but I somehow doubt that he watched your video. Can’t say as I like the actual design much, but I appreciate the time and effort that was required. I think it would have looked better without the shark pieces on the side. For the actual cost of the build I think you did an excellent job. I enjoyed your video. I’d be interested in seeing a more conventional looking custom build should you do one.

Enjoy the bike. With the slip on it may feel fast, but I guarantee it has less power than with the stock exhaust. I had a 3rd gen. with a jetted Hindle, no pops on decelerations, but it was nowhere near as fast as my 4th gen. with a stock exhaust. Get it jetted, or put the stock pipe back on. On the other hand if you like it the way it is, then why bother. 😀

I started riding years ago when I couldn’t afford much and the equipment basically wasn’t around, so I used anything that worked. I carry a tailpack. For rain gloves I carry a spare pair of good, old gloves. You can either buy large washing rubber gloves and put them over the gloves, or put thin plastic gloves on underneath the old gloves which keeps your hands dry (not great for hot days). For boots. Put a grocery bag over your socks to keep your feet dry and then boots on. I’ve done this numerous times, as I’ve found that on multiple day rides waterproofing your boots doesn’t last. I have a couple of riding suits and one is ventilated. Great for hot days, but if you start off early in the morning, too effective, and cold. So I use a black garbage bag and put it under my jacket front. Keeps the wind off, and much warmer. For or getting caught out on a suddenly cold day, stuff newspaper under your jacket. For the gloves, buy cheap thin Dollar store gloves to put under them. Apart from the newspaper there’s nothing above that can’t be stuffed under your seat and left there until you may need it.

I'd say the grease on the pistons is way too much. A thin coating on the pistons should be sufficient. I assume that you'll wipe off the excess when the pistons are pushed into the caliper!

I agree with pretty much everything you've said. I've ridden Deals Gap with both my gsxr1000 and my vfr750. A gear indicator on the gsxr for a twisty road such as that is pretty much obsolete when the only 2 gears you are using is 1st and second, but principally second. That's because she'll do 90 mph in first and 120 mph in second. Who needs to change gear? On the vfr with it's much shorter gearing it's definately handy to know what gear you are in at all times as you are constantly changing gears in comparison to the gsxr. To sum up a gear indicator is just plain handy to have.

Very impressive lean angle.

I have had my '95 for 7 years. It is probably for me the best and most satisfying bike I have ever owned. I have been a sport bike guy for years and 3 of my last 5 bikes have been gsxr1000's. I still own a gsxr1000 and if I had to sell that or the vfr, I would sell the gsxr. The forks are easy to pull apart. The bodywork comes off quickly and easily making most maintenance fairly easy. If the tires have been off the ground and out of the sun when stored then unless you are doing track days or are an aggressive street rider, they'll be fine. Keep the bike!

Part II Front Upper Head Removal in 1.5 hours VFR750 The Scary Part ... ▶ 47:57 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3SIo9YBrpU Mar 8, 2017 - Uploaded by Alex-Thang Nguyen The video is how to remove the bolts and illustrates how toremove the entire upper head; total time is 1.5 ...

I don't know why he's wasting his time rebuilding his engine. That engine with 7,400 miles is a steal at $500.

I fit your description upto a point. I still ride and love sportbikes, but their day has come and gone. Given the choice of only owning my sport bike or 4th gen. vfr, I'd settle for the VFR, but it does need about 20 more hp.

Over the years I have heard from different sources complaints that VFR's are hard to work on. I have had a 1995 vfr750 for 7 years. I do my own maintenance as I have done for many years and have found the following things. 1) It only takes me 5 (if I rush) to 10 minutes (if I take my time) to get the tail piece, and side panels, plus lower cowl off. I remove the tail piece as a complete unit. Takes considerably longer to take pieces off my sport bike. 2) Getting at the rear bank of cylinders to change spark plugs or check valves or reshim is simple. 3) Getting at the front bank of cylinders is a pain, and definately not easy to change plugs, check valves and replace shims. Next time I do a valve check I'll consider removing the front forks and doing fork oil at the same time. 4) Removing the cams to replace shims is simple, because of the gear driven cams. I mark the cams with white marker, and put them back in the exact same position. No chance that way of screwing up. Much more finicky to replace shims on a bike with cams and chains. 5) Removing the rear wheel with the stock exhaust is easy. Much easier than working on regular bike rear ends. 6) Front forks are easy to work on when pulling apart and you don't need special tools. They are not super sensitive to differences in fork oil amounts as a full out sport bike is. I know this from experience with my sport bike which is a finely tooled machine and behaves as such needing special tools. 7) Front brakes are easy enough to work on, no harder than other bikes. I clean and regrease sliders every spring. 8) Clutch fluid change is easy enough. I put a speed bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder, which makes changing the fluid a 10 minute job. 9) Oil changes are simple enough. 10) Changing the rectifier. Simple. Remove tail piece. I could go on, but I believe I've covered the main points. The 4th gen. in my opinion, apart from a couple of things is an easy bike to work on, and without doubt of all the bikes I've bought with full fairings, the easiest. I'm interested to know how hard it is to work on the other generations, particularly when it comes to removing the bodywork so that you can get at parts.

You can try tapeworks. They have a couple of decal kits. I have considered putting some decals on , but I'm not sure I like the look.

What's a "moderate number of miles?" The first set of Roadsmart 2's on my '95 did 6000 miles before the front started to square off. It was fine above 20 mph, but below that in town on turns it was hard to turn once they got to 6000 miles. My second set have done 8000 miles so far and still exhibit "normal" behaviour. Still think there's 2 or 3 thousand left in them. Having a sport bike also and only getting 3 to 3500 miles out of a set of sport tires I'm more than happy with the Roadsmart 2's. I had Michelin Road tires on an SV1000 and must confess that when I sold it with only 4400 miles on it the tires looked like new. After Dunlop my next choice of tire brand would be Michelin.

I have roadsmart 2's on my 1995. I like them so much I bought roadsmart 3's. They are an excelllent tire and supply great grip in dry. Apparently they do very well in the wet, but I haven't had occasion to ride in the wet recently. I bought the 3's off the internet, and they were selling for a cheaper price than the 2's.