5thave

The time has come... Selling my much-loved 1991 VFR750F (Red with bronze wheels). Asking $4200CAD, negotiable. Well maintained. Runs well and am currently riding it. 65,750 km. Significant upgrades to the charging system and wiring including MOSFET regulator/rectifier. Steel braided hoses on all 3 brakes and on clutch. Heated hand grips. Euro-spec rear turn signals. Solo seat cowl. Carburetors recently overhauled and updated with Viton seals. Only negative is the kickstand fairing has broken free. I have it but have not repaired it yet. Located in Ottawa, ON. Contact me by PM See also ad here: www.kijiji.ca

Thanks for the feedback everyone! Imports from USA (e.g. Partzilla, etc.) are frustratingly expensive to Canada, when duties and brokerage fees are applied. So I don't often use that channel. I may install the Niche brand (Amazon) part temporarily and place an order from Honda Canada for a permanent solution.

Hi there. My wiring plug at the starter relay has melted. The red plug is not a worry -- I can replace it, but the green socket on the relay is corroded and damaged too, so I'm trying to find a replacement. The Honda parts desk near me says the relay is back ordered. Are there alternatives that are recommended? Amazon has some at a fraction of the Honda price. Would this be advisable? For reference, I am seeing this: https://a.co/d/fi574X8

Nice!

Yes, I checked the float bowl drain screws on rear cylinders #1 (left) and #3 (right). These had plenty of fuel. I am able to reach the drain on #4 (front right), which was dry. Any tips on how to reach the inward-facing drain screw on #2 (front left) carb? I can't seem to get a long screwdriver in there from the right-hand side of the machine because the thermostat housing is in the way. Any tips or ideas? I guess I am taking the carbs off again, and will check over everything once more, then re-install. Hopefully I can hear it run before the cold weather shuts down operations again (the wife wants to park in the garage and this means moving crap around and I lose my working space 😕 )

Yup! For sure! By the way, this re-assembly is FINALLY using the engine I bought from you in Buffalo pre-pandemic. 🙂 I know the rear two cylinders are OK, but the front bank is not firing yet. I think it's a fueling problem: I will be taking the carbs off again for a re-inspection.

Great info! Thanks. I also found item number 32, here, which describes how to jump and prime the pump and carbs. I will try this today! Now to find a paperclip for jumping that circuit....

After 11 years as a pile of parts, I have my '91 back together, and I am ready to try starting it. I cannot remember what sound/noise I should hear from the fuel pump. Can anyone describe it? On first ignition-on condition there was no noise (fuel in the tank, but all hoses dry/empty. On engaging the starter I heard a rapid "Brrrrrp" followed by a little pop, and silence. Little to no fuel entered the filter, so I imagine the pump was still dry at this point. There is no visible damage, and all fuses are intact, but the fuel pump no longer makes any noise when ignition is on or when I engage the starter. After giving time for fuel to feed by gravity, I can confirm fuel in the rear float bowls (cyl. 1 and 3) but front float bowls seem to be dry (cyl. 2 and 4). I guess I need a fuel pump to move the fuel up front. 1. What should I hear from the pump? 2. When should I hear it? - when ignition is switched on? - when starter is engaged? Thanks folks!

I forget whether that's where the rubber bumper for the centre stand goes? Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

Third gen's were the model produced from 1990 to 1993. 4th gen were 94 through 97. Both are the RC36 and are sometimes designated RC36-I and RC36-II. Nice looking bike you've got there! Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tips! Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

Thanks! I will check out those sources!

What is a good source for engine gasket kits, upper and lower?

Okay, I've been MIA for a while. Back in May 2018 I was working on the bike: I've finally gotten around to putting a few hours into the project again. This may be a long-term project. But today, with a little help from a friend we got the engine out and onto a workbench. For what it's worth, the low (near zero!) compression in one cylinder is a mystery. I expected to find a bent valve or damaged valve spring. Nope. The head is 100% fine. All valve clearances were within spec before we started, and there is no visible damage to the piston crowns or cylinder walls. I will have to invert the engine and disassemble it to find whether piston rings are the problem. I expect that must be the case.

Finally managed to get the exhaust collector off, but I sheared one of the studs when the nut refused to back off the header stud. Getting the header pipe out was no walk in the park, either. I think you need three elbows to be able to contort your arm into the spaces needed to reach the nuts on the back of the rear cylinder head. So that was most of Saturday morning gone, to remove seven nuts. Luckily, it looks easy enough to grind down the weld and replace the welded bolt that I broke: In other news, I've re-mounted the rear wheel and re-installed the centre stand. This will make it easier to position the bike for a thorough engine degreasing. I was ready to remove the front head and have a look inside, but I've decided it's probably a better idea to wait until I've got the bike a lot cleaner than it is now, and avoid a whole lot of problems that could come from opening the engine in its present, filthy state.