Mohawk

If you have the RB Racing module, you can register the unit with Dimsport & download the control software. If you meed anything special you can email Dimsport & they will help if possible. I got my rev limit increase that way. I'm currently running 14.2/1 AFR via my MTB wideband 4.9 O2 sensor.

Ah spring arrives in the Netherlands 👍 Finally got my VFR back together yesterday & was going to take it for a shakedown ride today. Then had a strange thought & checked its legal status, no Tax or MoT ☹️ So have to take it for MoT this week before I can get it taxed. Typically the weather forecast for the next 2 weeks is rain ☹️

Hi Mohawk, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I have a carbon heat shield, which I backed with alloy from a disposable baking tray ! This is an early pic from 2012 with the old exhaust. You can see the Blue brake hose, goes over the cushion & into the square hole in left side of the swingarm. Comes out the drain hole underneath just in front of the eccentric hub to the VFR400/750 rear caliper ! I fitted a bleed screw banjo bolt to the M/C to make bleeding simple. This is it from 2016 with TBR exhaust & mini reservoir on the M/C.

I just used a 45degree banjo & ran the hose forward from the MC through the swingarm.

The nut on the end of the wax unit op rod, sets the SV position relative to the wax unit temperature. If the wax unit & its lever brass bearings are operating correctly it should NEVER need adjustment. If the wax unit is NOT operating correctly you can adjust this nut to compensate, but it may not cure your issue. If I were you I'd measure the rod protrusion length, then remove the nut & brass bearing & clean it as it looks like it may be corroded! Reassemble after cleaning & test again. All the wax unit does is push pull the SV (choke) lever based on the coolant circuit temperature. When cold it closes the choke to make the AFR rich, when warm it opens the choke to allow main air control for idle to be by the SV/throttle plate idle screw setting. So if engine cold idles as expected (2-2.5k/rpm) then increases rpm when engine reaches nominal operating temp, the wax unit/SV plate is NOT returning fully to the Open position. The ECU does NOT have a monitor for WAX/SV position, but does have an engine temperature monitor for AFR compensation, hence the high idle speed.

Yep they did & that is where the Yoshi-stacks & my big airbox mod came from. As Larry explains so well, components have to match in the induction & exhaust systems or the harmonics won't work.

Ignore previous. Yes there is search Big Airbox mod 👍

If you do some searching, there is a means to revamp those rubbers make them soft as new. I used engine oil on the inside of mine the first time I had the TB's off, every time since they have been easy to do & flexible 👍

Mine are down 7mm & the rear is raised 2" & its still rock solid stable. But turns much faster than before 👍 So no need to worry.

Sounds like he means the ignition would not turn off. Kill switch will always kill an engine. Flattening the battery is normally a stuck relay keeping a circuit energised. Attach jump leads from a car to bike battery, start car & then pull every relay out of its socket one at a time, there are only a few. You can short cut this by pulling the circuit fuses one at a time until ignition goes off, then you'll know what circuit relay is the likely culprit. Have fun.

So here is my electric water pump installed. Second pic shows main coolant flow with Yellow arrows same on diagram. Orange arrows show T-stat (Thermostat) circuit that allows heated coolant from head to be circulated by the water pump to the T-stat until warm enough to open the T-stat. Once T-stat opens main yellow flow takes over. Diagram shows location of my 25mm to 11mm (IIRC) T-piece hose joiner in the lower rad return hose to allow T-stat to be retained with the electric pump which only has an inlet & outlet for the main flow. Not a perfect solution but it works. Hope that all makes sense 👍

He's hilarious 😂 Fantastic write up Spiros. Was great to see you again & visit anothers secret Skunk works garage to chew the fat. Thanks again for lunch. We look forwrd to regular updates 👍 Pep says keep that work space tidy 😂👍

There is one possibility, there was one guy that prepped an 800 for one of the open class Y2K races but was not allowed to compete. Might have been that but I've no idea what mods were done in the preparation.

MoT checker says that reg is yellow. https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/VehicleFound?locale=en The plate says it was supplied by Bowers Motorcycles a now defunct large bike dealer in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk. I can't see any mention of them as a TT competitor nor sponsor. So I think your acquaintance may have been fed a line of BS. Looks awfully like a 1999 bog stock VFR 🤷‍♀️

Apparently it was wet at 1998 TT, so here's RC45 best from 1997 and some production RC45 results to boot.

There was one 1998 VFR800 competitor that rode a VFR800 in the Production class.

The man said VFR800R & having spent years digging into the VFR800/RC45 lineage I do not recall ever hearing of any VFR800R's official or otherwise. So if you can re energise that picture I'd be interested in a look.

You can either buy the 98-99 parts, or if you look at them you can see its a simple bracket to hold the end of the cable & if you remove the wax unit you can make a bracket for the cable & attach to the same point as the wax unit mounts & choke lever. Then you can order the 98-99 choke lever. The 2K's have a blank plate on the right side of the left switch gear, but the rest is all there. Same part may fit from other models like CBR600 etc as a lot of Hondas from that tome used the same switch gear. My wax unit was working fine before I upgraded the engine, then it would take choke off too early at too low a temp & bike would die at idle. Now I can keep choke on until temp reaches 60C & then it's off & all OK.

I was referring to the left side of the bike rather than the wax unit. I'm fairly sure that flow direction is immaterial as it's just a heating circuit. I replaced mine with a 99 choke cable setup, best thing for them IMO & just ran a hose direct from left nipple off take to the thermostat nipple.

The wax unit appears to have a hose on each nipple, so I assume you have the loose end of the left side one in your hand. It goes to a nipple on the top of the left side engine coolant intake stub in the edge of the left side V of the engine. The other hose goes to the thermostat housing.

With some ingenuity you could just swap the thermo element from any correct size temp unit into your old Honda part.

Not really required. I added temp sensors to the cooler lines & the VFR does not get that hot to worry about. The cooling system can get warm, but not too hot if everything works as it should. A simple tip for anyone in a warm environment is to reduce the anti-freeze percentage, as it is a poor coolant & distilled water is an excellent one ! In UK summer temps 20-35c mine runs @ 75-84c when moving.

VF750S or F or VF500 replacement collectors possibly Motad !? I replied to the picture, but see you have a VF1000, so probably Motad if in UK/Europe