ShipFixer

Mine appeared to be good. The switches are essentially open mechanisms looking up, so all sorts of things will have fallen and washed into them over 22 years. The other way to check this is at the starter harness plug for continuity. You don't need to remove the fairing, it's by the battery under the saddle. A voltmeter will tell you if the circuit is truly open when either of the switches is open, and closed when they are both closed.

Both my kill switch and ignition key switch were dirty. I had intermittent connectivity through them which caused some random and inopportune shutdowns. It's possible that you could have something else causing continuity in there. Not hard to disassemble and clean the kill switch and clean it up, and fix whatever is going on in there. Ignition key switch is a little bit tricky to get to, but can be done with universal joints and some extensions.

The round Delkevics that come with the VFR package will clear the bag mounts without modification. Looks like the OP bought a couple of their different short cans to go with the middle Y junction pipe from Delkevic...which is pretty cool.

Hi ShipFixer, Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I resprayed the parts I couldn't buy NOS with color matched paint from Color Rite, which did not exist back in the day. Perfect match for R157, yellow should be a lot easier. My spray can results with lacquer clear coat were and still are excellent, anything beyond that should look and feel perfect. It's on my list of things to do to re-do with 2K clear coat from a small spray gun now that I have the space, but haven't had to almost four years later.

Gtechnic ceramic everything plus their EXO hydrophobic layer FTW after orbital polishing. Nothing short of a rock chip messes with my paint. The ceramic glass sealant is terrific. Cerakote headlight kits and plastic trim coats (wipes) are the business. I got a 50 pack of the latter and it was worth it.

The Color Rite stuff matches very, very well. I sprayed a front fender and other panels I couldnt get new parts for in 2020 and they are still dead on for the NOS parts on the bike.

At 22 years old, my wax unit "sort of" works and it is most likely a coolant blockage thing. But I live in San Diego 😄 I have a pile of new hoses and a new wax unit in a box next to my bike. Eventually will get around to it.

Lots of examples on the forum where people have made different solutions. Stainless steel flex hose using the original fittings, or retapping the sump and cooler for standard fittings seems popular. I ordered new OEM lines from Honda last year and just waited for them to come in. They are still out there, or were last year.

Is this a leverage ratio thing or a ride height thing?

You may be able to just get a new side fairing in that color from Partzilla or a used one from eBay, dont forget that. I was able to get almost all new plastic for my 2002 in 2020. A lot of those parts in R157 red are no longer available NOS in 2023 though. Worth checking for matte black. Repair and repaint with colors from Colorite is also a good option. I did this for pieces I could not replace.

Oh no. He's the only VFRD member I've seen in the last few years. He helped me a lot with my headers of course. Texted about surfing but never did it before he moved. This is awful to hear.

I get this on items I just look at a few times occasionally. It sometimes tips me over the edge and I buy it.

Did yours come with the wax unit lines, if your bike has that? Gotta do hoses on mine some time in the near future.

I'd believe its getting hot because of the original RR. If your subframe is that hot due to some heat source other than the RR you've got other problems... 😁 I never took any kind of temps on mine, but my bike *always* smelled like hot electrical wiring when running or after shut down. Going to MOSFET fixed that. You should not need additional cooling.