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YoshiHNS

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Everything posted by YoshiHNS

  1. YoshiHNS
    There are a few on e-bay... just checked. Looks like they range from ratty (750cc cover beat to snot for 5 bucks) to nice. None for the 12's though. :( One of the ratty ones is ratty right around where it's going to get cut apart, and I think it was only $5. A nicer shiny one is $50. Really depends on how much it costs to mail your original internationally, and then not riding for the three months it takes to get here and back. I think I would have been pretty surprised if I saw them for the 1200 already.
  2. YoshiHNS
    Someone posted that one was listed on craigslist. I'm sure there are a few on ebay too,
  3. YoshiHNS

    P1040207

    YoshiHNS commented on vfrtopi's gallery image in Member's Gallery

    P1040207
    Ennyi VFR Budapesten?
  4. YoshiHNS
    Cheers Mr Canuck! Shame it's going to be hidden with a CBR600RR tank cover. Will source some baffle foam blocks to stop the fuel sloshing about too. Sometimes better to make something cheap and easy than sexy and expensive. Do you have the fuel pump on there as well, or something else planned?
  5. YoshiHNS
    I've been doing a bit of research, and think I can sum it up. Flat slide carbs maybe easier to do, but will work terrible except at the tippy top. I found the thread of the guy who had his NC30 converted to FI by Durbahn, and he seemed to not like the flat slides very much and said they didn't work well until 9k rpm. FI is probably harder, with the biggest challenge being the camshaft sensors. Would want an exhaust with a place for a wideband O2 sensor as well.
  6. YoshiHNS
    The spacing between carbs would be key and tricky to get. It would make sense to get a rack and break it just for the extra springs and bits if they were cheaper as a rack than individual.
  7. YoshiHNS
    Does anyone have the size of the 3rd gen carbs? Or knows for sure how the carbs are sized?
  8. YoshiHNS
    Yeah, I know about the microsquirt and the megasquirt, and I know people who have messed with it. They aren't the same people afterwards...
  9. YoshiHNS
    Did you see what Durbahn did on the NC30 fuel injection conversion? There's not much information on it other than it's working and how he used GSXR 750 bodies on it. Someone else here was also working on a FI conversion. Think it was flyguyeddy? Quick glance at prices for the Motec units. $4k(ish), so something less fancy would have to be used. http://durbahn.de/WebRC30.htm
  10. YoshiHNS
    ^^^ That's kind of where I want to take this. Can't really buy RC30 carbs, and the special order Durbahn ones are $2500+. There's not really a whole lot to a carb assembly. Fuel lines, a spacer, the throttle pulley, top plate, and a handful of lines. Maybe it could be done for under a grand if you start with four individual carbs.
  11. YoshiHNS
    Measured the bottom of the carbs for the 96. The OD is ~42mm and the ID is ~35mm. That doesn't seem quite right.
  12. YoshiHNS
    But if we were building a bike targeted for the track, I wouldn't worry too much about the low RPMs. Good to know though. CV carbs do not work well with pod filters. I do not remember the reason at the moment. Think it had something to do with the pressure/vacuum created. Are flat slide carbs the same? I think an airbox would still be very beneficial to the function.
  13. YoshiHNS
    When I said single carb, I didn't mean one carb for the engine. I meant one carb unit of the correct size and orientation. Put four of them together to make the carb rack.
  14. YoshiHNS
    While perusing the Durbahn site looking at all the shiney things that you couldn't buy if you sold half your organs, I saw their Keihin FCR carbs for the RC30. And well, that got me thinking. Carbs aren't that complicated. Surely less complicated to make a rack for carbs than convert to FI (as their NC30). There's a lot of information to go over, so who wants to help? For the point of the discussion, let's assume that there are no bottlenecks in the system, and ignore jet and pilot settings. I just want to see what it would take to get a set of flat slide carbs on. Not that I'm planning on starting another project any time soon. Durbahn advertise a 7hp gain just from switching the carbs from the OEM to the Keihin FCR39s for the RC30. What is giving the extra power? Jetting can always be adjusted and tuned, so it has to be something more than that. What are the sizes on the intakes for the 3rd and 4th gen. I think they are different. 3g=39mm. 4g-41mm? I can always check my 96 carbs for the size, but not the 3rd gen. What are they on the RC30? Does Keihin make an individual carb unit so that 4 units could be assembled and mounted in the orientation needed for the VFR?
  15. YoshiHNS
    Before it's already gone in the back of a van.. I thought about an alarm, and decided to invest in a bike cover and a big chain and lock. Anywhere questionable, and it would be locked onto something with the cover on.
  16. YoshiHNS
    It's out of my '93 3000GT. Not the turbo model. Just a major rebuild. Bought it for $1k with a blown motor. PO never changed the timing belt and it snapped and destroyed the head. So another grand or so later, and I have completely rebuild heads with new valves (cams didn't get damaged), timing belt, water pump, gaskets, so on. Went another 70k on the motor, and my transmission had an issue. The nut on the 5th gear can back off, making it impossible to get in and out of 5th gear and no reverse. So it was a fun couple of days driving around with no reverse. Found that a 5th gear out of a different mitsubishi (think a lancer) fits this transmission. So instead of just cracking open the access panel and tightening that nut, I sent it off to get completely cleaned and rebuild with new syncros and all and the taller 5th gear. Had a leak in the clutch so I have a new clutch master and am running a SS line direct from the master to the slave instead of the 4 dozen intermediate connections there are. Rebuild brake master and soon to rebuild and powdercoat the calipers and some engine bits. Aluminum main pulley since the rubber in the original was severely rotted and ready to tear apart. New exhaust Cat to replace the leaking erroded one on there. Maybe new dampers and shocks all around. Going through the frame and making sure there isn't any rust rotting the frame away (so far haven't). Basically tore it down to the block, checked everything, cleaned everything, polished all the machined surfaces, all new high quality gaskets (screw graphite gaskets), new parts per service requirements, and a clean engine back with a new tranny. Right now I'm ready to put the last few bits on the side blocked by the engine stand and the tranny and drop it in. Too much getting in the way. The thing that always makes me happy is that the bore on the cylinders is still FANTASTIC. Still has the original hash marks with no scoring or damage anywhere. So hopefully by the end of it I'll have a car rebuit heads up with better than OEM parts, new tranny, slightly more power, no oil drip, 33mpg average that still will be better at the mpg/performance ratio than anything that I can buy today, and still only cost me $4000 total. Now I Just have to figure out how to fit some nice Jag or Porsche heated leather seats in there. It's at 170k right now, should get another 120k out of it easy.
  17. YoshiHNS
    Guess I have an update from a while ago. Started to take the drive pins off the spindle so I could do the measurements and put the spacer block behind it. A bit of torching to break the lok-tite on the screws to get those off. But the pins are pressed in, and they are really pressed in well. At the time I tried it, our big 80 ton press was set up for a high qty production job, and our big arbor press was jammed from someone not locking the shaft in and it falling down. Only had the small arbor press which isn't bolted down, and the press was lifting off the table before the thing gave a sign of budging. So that's where I left it. Right now, this is taking what time I have between work (new job since 3 months ago, so no working on project between machine cycles), errands, and other unforseen events. Going through this thing with a fine toothed comb. By the end of it it'll be better than original, except for the paint.
  18. YoshiHNS
    :+1: Someone a while back posted about them. Said they worked incredibly well for cold weather. Might look a bit funny, but better than that piece of folded carpet.
  19. YoshiHNS

    To a man with bigger balls than most, cheers! http://www.redbullstratos.com/live/

  20. YoshiHNS
    Don't get too jealous. Usual working hours are 6:30-6, Mon-Sat. Nice to have the toys, but you don't really have a lot of time either.
  21. YoshiHNS
    Just to show that this thread isn't dead just yet. Between starting a new job and rebuilding the engine in my car, other things have been pushed aside until they are done. But still have something new to show. The rear brake is going to be a bit of a mess. I have a 675 rear caliper that came along with the 675 Sato rearsets I bought. First off, NO, they are not a direct bolt on. Close, but no cigar. So I have a 675 caliper with a ST spindle and rotor. 675 rotor diameter is 220mm vs 255 for the ST. So I'm going to have to have a custom rotor to have the same mounting as the original ST rotor with the diameter of the 675. Still have to check if it will fit. My engineering department happened to have some 0.071" titanium on hand to cut the sprocket spacers I needed. Also, not many people carry a steel 520 sprocket that will work on this conversion. 2.5 month backorder on them, unless I buy the aluminum one. And after working with the engineering department some more, it was decided to go a different route with the wheel spacer. Originally, I was going to have a 0.125" plate with cutouts for the drive pins, and then washers to extend the step on the pins. But since the pins are only 0.4" long before the taper, we are going to make a plate that will go between the original mounting surface and the drive pins. Two problems. The pins are either press fit or shrink fit, and the material for the bolts that hold them is pretty soft. I'm going to have to take the spindle to work and press out one of the pins to get the diameter needed for the spacer and probably find new bolts with a longer thread. Here's a 2D of what the plate might look like.
  22. YoshiHNS
    Thanks to Matt for pointing out a major up in my math. Here's my revised math for how far I need to offset the wheel, which is actually 0.132" to the new math.
  23. YoshiHNS
    From this thread
  24. YoshiHNS
    The tire should clear. With the normal 4th gen wheel I can just get my finger between the swingarm and the tire. With just the wheel, I can get more than that. Not very scientific. I brought home the calipers to take measurements to see how close the wheel originally is to the swingarm. I'm going to center the wheel by adding a plate to where the wheel mounts. I'll add rings to extend the length of the step on the spindle that fits in the counterbore on the wheel. The difference is only 0.05", so it's barely anything.
  25. YoshiHNS
    More pictures VFR caliper hanger thickness Triumph caliper thickness The triumph caliper also weights TWICE the VFR one. 0.5lbs vs 0.25 lbs. Tsk Tsk. Plenty of room to bolt down the sprocket hub. Way too much material on the wheel side of the spindle. The step keeps the cone from touching the wheel, and the threads are too short to make the wheel nut useful. You cannot use the Triumph wheel cone either. Need to use the correct ducati cone. This is with the eccentric all the way to the rear This is with the eccentric all the way to the front. Looks like I'll have the wheel clearance no problem. Just need to start designing the spacers and send them over to get cut out.
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