coppertop

For some reason, my 1998 VFR has started blowing the 10 amp fuse for the brake lights and turn signals. I've done a little poking about, making sure it has the correct bulbs, looking for corrosion in the sockets, reinstalling with dielectric grease... Yesterday I thought I the culprit was a slightly loose spade connection to the front brake light switch, but this morning, the new fuse had blown before I turned on to the main road out of my neighborhood. I'm planning on digging in deeper tomorrow, as I'm sure there are some connectors I haven't seen yet. Are there any likely suspects I should be on the lookout for? Thanks,

Damn sexy white wheels... I did mine in gold. Not quite as dramatic, but I like it

Hi coppertop, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Looks great!

After a careful review of the Galfer instructions, I believe I have found the problem. My mistake was quickly scanning the written instructions, then installing the lines in alphabetical order going by the photos and *not* looking back at the written part. In doing so, I connected line G to line F with the double banjo bolt. That connected the left caliper middle piston to the auxiliary master cylinder input line and line going to the PCV. Line G should go from the left caliper middle piston to the auxiliary master cylinder output port and the line which runs to the delay valve. Note: it is very difficult (but not impossible!) to get the short G line routed the way I did, and the double banjo bolt in that position was very difficult (but not impossible!) to install with almost zero clearance with the front rim. Furthermore, even after installing, the double banjo at the auxiliary cylinder input made it difficult (but not impossible!) to remove and install the front wheel when I was going through the bleeding process. I should have stopped and re-read the instructions when that part of the install was getting so difficult, as everything up to that point had gone very smoothly. I will report back when I have fixed my error and tested. It's too hot to do it right now, and life is happening, so it might be a few days.

It's nice to have a simple thing to check, if only to rule it out. The piston in the front brake master cylinder is correctly oriented, one possible cause down. Unfortunately, I also have to re-adjust the steering head bearing nut (I had to replace the steering head bearings while all this was going on too.) I believe it could be either a master cylinder issue or the SMC thing. When I was going about the brake rebuilding, it was drug out over several weekends, so its very possible the dregs of old brake fluid crusted up in the SMC or master cylinder fluid passages. I'll report back when I've either found out which is the problem, or if I'm still stymied. Thanks!

I've been doing a "little" maintenance on my 1998 fifth gen VFR. I rebuilt all the calipers (right front, left front, and rear), installed new brake pads, rebuilt all the master cylinders, (at the handlebar, at the left front caliper, and at the rear brake pedal), and I replaced the stock brake lines with the Galfer braided stainless steel lines kit. The instructions for the Galfer kit seemed pretty clear to me, and I have bled the brake system per the Honda shop manual. The brakes feel firm, but on a short shakedown cruise in the neighborhood, the brakes (especially after applying the rear brake pedal) don't release when I release pressure on the brakes. If I stop and wait a short while, they do release, slowly. What might be going on? Got a set of troubleshooting tasks to work through to zero in on the issue?

Does anyone here have a source or recommendation for a caliper rebuild kits for the front brakes? I sourced a Parts Unlimited rebuild kit for the rear caliper, but the online Parts Unlimited catalog did not show anything for the '98-'99 model years. (only '00-'01). It looks like the kits would differ from left to right, but not absolutely certain about that. Thanks!

Following up for the curious; After "burping" the coolant system, I replaced the radiator cap with a new one. I also checked the switch that gets activated by the clutch lever. My new aftermarket levers do not touch the switch when they are adjusted closest to the grip, but do make good contact at any of the other settings. I did remove the switch and cleaned the contacts, then re-installed and adjusted to the middle setting. The strange sound did not recur during a test ride or my morning commute, even when I adjusted the clutch lever to miss the switch. So, I think the problem was a damaged seal at the radiator cap.

Possible air in the coolant system was an easy thing to check, and I did follow the manual recommendation to "burp" the air out. I noticed the smaller of the two seals on the radiator cap was fouled up with some crud, so I cleaned it and checked the surface it seals against to make sure there wasn't anything crusted there. The seal looked bad enough to me even after cleaning that I doubt it will seal welll, so I have a new radiator cap coming. But the second possibility! I did just switch out my stock clutch and brake levers, so I will also take a close look at the clutch switch interaction and the associated flapper.

Not the original poster, but also a fairly new to VFRs. My fifth-gen ('98) is making what seems to me an unusual noise: As I slow to a stop, I hear a sound like fluid and air being blown out or sucked into a straw. Sort of a gurgle, but with definite non-liquid bypass. This occurs regardless of indicated engine temperature during my commute. It may make the sound while I am underway, but I only hear it when stopping. Not tire/brake/chain movement related, as i can here it after I am at a complete stop. Not a constant sound either, it will gurgle and blow, and then no noise. Does this sound like a particular problem in the cooling system? (with 90 degrees F ambient temperatures, the engine temp climbs steadily to 218 degrees F over the course of a 25 minute commute at speeds between 40 and 25 mph). No visual indication of coolant leak. 35,000 miles on the odometer. Thanks in advance!

The really nice thing about Oklahoma is that even in the coldest months of the year, there will be at least a few days where it will be nice enough to ride. Of course, that makes it a little more difficult to tear down the bike for upgrades that take time (powdercoating, for example). But that's justification for multiple bikes. Gotta have those backups!

Hello, all. I've been lurking, soaking up this site since I picked up a '98 800 Interceptor back in August. I am glad for the large community and wealth of information on this thing, and although the VFR is almost 20 years old, it is a huge technological leap compared to my other bikes.