Tightwad

Or you could run an inline switch as well...that way you decide when it is powered on. I have considered an inline bypass for my voltmeter so I could check the status of the battery with the key off.

certainly they can.

The Chinese ones are junk...I bought a few just to see and they are really probably 20 amp units at best...made for a 4-wheeler or something. Ricks OEM replacements are pretty good, or you could upgrade to a 98-99 model and get the MOSFET version. Over engineered for the 90-97 bikes but that isn't a bad thing in this case.

in the meantime tie the connection in a knot so there is no pulling on it? Of course that means you are tethered to your bike...better keep riding!

Oooooh Nooooo!,.....not another thing to think about while riding!....... Beck 95 VFR I already have to make the 8% speedo adjustment in my head...a bit more math wouldn't kill me...of course mine reads correctly so I don't have to chance it...

Dutchy - I think you want the light blue wire...it will be the same color for license plate light. Voltage drop with a voltmeter isn't an issue as long as you know what the drop is...compare voltage at wire being used to that of the battery to know what that value is...then add it back mentally.

I am not aware of such a wire. The fuse panel I sell includes a relay kit to wire to the tail light for the relay switch. Powerlet products wire direct to battery by design so they are always live, but they can be relay through a fuse panel as well easily enough.

How bright do you want them to be? I built a 650 lumen flashligh that uses 1W LEDs that are on a star heatsink. I have used the crappy 5mm LEDs for things as well...the difference is night and day. It doesn't sound like there is a socket in there, you just want a 2" round circuit board with LEDs? I would go with Superbright LEDs in that case. You have to figure out how many LEDs you can fit, then use this link to determin the needed resistors and how to wire them: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz. You need to know the forward voltage (3.5V is common) and milliamps (20ma is common).

Yes, anything but a relayed connection will show a voltage drop. It is super simple to install a relay, so why not?

Are you 110% sure you have the wires in the right order? The clutch diode shouldn't be causing a problem...it sounds like you are feeding power the wrong direction. The picture shows an example of a 96 VFR melted connection...note where the wires are and be sure yours are in the same spots. Green and Yellow are closest to the fuse, green on the left side looking down at the starter relay with the fuse at the top.

The connection in question is under the right fairing. Look for a connector with a red/black wire in it.

So somewhat random question/thought.... Often on a low speed drop damage happens to that area of the clutch cover. With a plastic window is there a fairly good chance that damage results in a leak and an un-rideable bike?

very good info!

How big is the screen of the Bionic?

Does the GPS receiver work independent of the cell service? I think the auto GPS still has plenty of life left. Phones have smaller screens and less ruggedness....waterproof is an obvious one.

Thanks...I will let you know when it ships.

CandyRedRC46 - Don't install HID high beams or your problem will get worse. HID bulbs consume less power (35w vs 55w) than regular bulbs. If the unit doesn't overcharge with the fan on then there is something to the theory that you need to be consuming more power to make it happy... For those with Compufires....try disconnecting the headlights and testing the voltage to see if anyone can replicate the overcharging

Nice review! The ground instructions changed because we opted for a direct battery ground after some people had problems that could have been ground related (they weren't). the 6000K lights have more blue than I personally like, but not bad. I don't even offer higher because I don't like them....selfish I suppose.

It shouldn't tho...unless they only use parts rated to an AC voltage level that is too low? I think these were designed for low revving Harley Davidsons after all...

I would suggest the one I sell of course (mosfet version). I get them from Ricks but at a discount. Check out my website.

The stator makes more and more voltage the faster the motor spins....maybe this has something to do with it? My Ricks MOSFET unit makes 14.8 volts at 9500 RPM....

Unless some corrosive material was in the oil, the oil type should have very little to do with a failure.

For an OEM stator call Keith at Mason City Honda. Tell him you are from VFRD. Aftermarket stator are wound differently than OEM btw...that is why they perform differently. I can never keep them straight, but one is WYE wound and the other is DELTA wound.

Did I miss the price? Are you doing core exchanges for the covers?

Gotta admit it looks purdy.... You forgot your 4th goal...