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Battery drain on fifth gen


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On 4 September 2020 at 9:38 PM, Walker1 said:

I have done the tests . The numbers are 0.2 ohms phase to phase, 0ohms ground to stator.

The r/r has 3.6 going in and an ever increasing number

Hi Walker1.

I understand if you're not too electrically minded and haven't done this before, these tests may be confusing.

You've come up with a good result for the phase to phase resistance test. But just need to clarify what your saying with the phase to Ground test. When you say 0 ohms, electrically, that means a dead short ie no resistance. If you have this situation then your Stator is faulty.

So what you are hoping to see is maximum or infinite resistance from the windings/phases to frame/ground ie NO shorts to ground. If you have this situation your Stator should be good.

Hope this clarifies things, as the check of shorts to ground is a vitally important one.

 

If all measures good with the Stator, then you might only have a faulty R/R issue. 

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19 minutes ago, Grum said:

So what you are hoping to see is maximum or infinite resistance from the windings/phases to frame/ground ie NO shorts to ground. If you have this situation your Stator is good.

Is what I should see on the multimeter 0.L? If so then I believe that's what I got! I'll double check however👌

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9 hours ago, Walker1 said:

Is what I should see on the multimeter 0.L? If so then I believe that's what I got! I'll double check however👌

Here's what you'd see as a short, virtual zero ohms(0.2 of an ohm). Clip lead across the probes simulating a short. (Lowest ohms range selected). Use this meter setting for the phase to phase resistance check

And what you'd see as Infinite/maximum resistance, open circuit. (Highest ohms range selected). Greater than 200 million ohms! Use this meter settting or the 20M setting for the phase to ground check.

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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11 hours ago, JimMoore said:

I have a different bike ('98 CBR600) with the same problem. The connector block from the stator to the R/R is fried, literally blackened and burnt. I plan to cut the connector out and hard-wire the three yellow wires. Out of curiosity, what do you mean by "ring connectors?"

Here is a link to "performance upgrade to charging system".  A full description with photos will be in that old posting.Charging system performance upgrade - Fifth Generation VFR's - VFRDiscussion.url

Also, if you read through the thread, there were many other very good ideas to cleaning up the connection problems.  One of those ideas may be more appealing.

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20 hours ago, Grum said:

Use this meter settting or the 20M setting for the phase to ground check.

Ok I done this! Pin to pin came back 0.2ohms just as before

and for the ground to pins I got no reading whatsoever.

 

So stator is good!

 

Double checked the R/R and still, just as before there is back flow from one of the diodes! Ordered the piece. Should be here by Monday and I’ll be good to go hopefully. 

Could a faulty R/R also be causing the delays on my indicators?

 

Thanks again for the help guys!

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1 hour ago, Walker1 said:

Could a faulty R/R also be causing the delays on my indicators?

Quite possible. A low battery voltage not being charged could well delay or slow the blink function. See how it goes after replacing the R/R and confirming the charging voltage. If you still have issues, might be an idea to  make sure all four indicator globes are of the correct wattage.

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13 hours ago, Walker1 said:

Ok I done this! Pin to pin came back 0.2ohms just as before

and for the ground to pins I got no reading whatsoever.

 

So stator is good!

 

Double checked the R/R and still, just as before there is back flow from one of the diodes! Ordered the piece. Should be here by Monday and I’ll be good to go hopefully. 

Could a faulty R/R also be causing the delays on my indicators?

 

Thanks again for the help guys!

What is the AC voltage of each leg of the stator at idle and 5000 rpm?

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On 9/5/2020 at 11:17 PM, mello dude said:

What is the AC voltage of each leg of the stator at idle and 5000 rpm?

I got a steady 5.92-5.96volts over all pin to pins

 

I have got the new rectifier and have tested the battery voltage again.

It's now around:

13 with engine off

14-14.5 idle

10-11 at 5000rpm.

 

Bike sounds healthier with new r/r.. not sure if that's normal but I know the volts at 5000rpms are low!

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The above is yours Grum... I give up!

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33 minutes ago, mello dude said:

The above is yours Grum... I give up!

I hear you Mello.!

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20 hours ago, Walker1 said:

I got a steady 5.92-5.96volts over all pin to pins

 

I have got the new rectifier and have tested the battery voltage again.

It's now around:

13 with engine off

14-14.5 idle

10-11 at 5000rpm.

 

Bike sounds healthier with new r/r.. not sure if that's normal but I know the volts at 5000rpms are low!

Walker.

Again your voltages are erroneous and not good, for the Stator Check at 5000rpm. As "The Drill" states you should be seeing 50volts AC or greater between any two pins of the Stator output leads. Unplugged from the R/R.

Was your meter set to AC Range? Remember, it's AC voltage out of the Stator and DC voltage out of the R/R.

Again I'm suspicious of your technique or your meter!

 

If you are only seeing 5.92v AC at the Stator leads then your Stator is Definelty NOT Good.! And your DC charge voltage at 5000rpm is not good.

 

Suggest confirming this test again, perhaps with a known good meter.

 

 

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29 minutes ago, Grum said:

I hear you Mello.!

----:beer:---

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12 hours ago, Grum said:

Walker.

Again your voltages are erroneous and not good, for the Stator Check at 5000rpm. As "The Drill" states you should be seeing 50volts AC or greater between any two pins of the Stator output leads. Unplugged from the R/R.

Was your meter set to AC Range? Remember, it's AC voltage out of the Stator and DC voltage out of the R/R.

Again I'm suspicious of your technique or your meter!

 

If you are only seeing 5.92v AC at the Stator leads then your Stator is Definelty NOT Good.! And your DC charge voltage at 5000rpm is not good.

 

Suggest confirming this test again, perhaps with a known good meter.

 

 

Thanks for your patience!

The technique was appropriate but the meter... I used my neighbours and the reading I got seem more appropriate

So battery voltage was 13.3-13.5 at idle.. 14.5 at 5000rpm

The stator was 15-17 at idle and 55ish at 5000rpm for each of the pins.

 

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12 minutes ago, Walker1 said:

Thanks for your patience!

The technique was appropriate but the meter... I used my neighbours and the reading I got seem more appropriate

So battery voltage was 13.3-13.5 at idle.. 14.5 at 5000rpm

The stator was 15-17 at idle and 55ish at 5000rpm for each of the pins.

 

Now you're talking. Charging volts are ok, go ride.:wheel: And bin your voltmeter!

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On 9/10/2020 at 12:29 PM, Grum said:

Now you're talking. Charging volts are ok, go ride.:wheel: And bin your voltmeter!

Took it for a few shpins..

It has been behaving just fine and battery is maintaining the charge!

I am still having the issue of a delay in the indicators. There is also a delay between turning the key on and being able to start the engine.

Both seem to only happen when it's not warm out and both are intermittent.

These must be a separate issue!

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