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RC36B

Valve clearance

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Short Update: received the new shims, installed them and swapped one shim to another location.  Put the cams in, rotated engine, checked all valves again and found that #4 inside intake was WAY too tight at about 0.003".  Removed the intake cam, checked the shim and I had written the initial shim measurement down incorrectly, so my calculation for the new shim was wrong.  Re-calculated and found that one of the shims I had removed would work.  So in it went then the cam.  Rechecked and all is good now.  Just waiting for the Hondabond HT sealant to arrive.  Gives me time to do additional cleaning and besides it is too cool to ride anyways.

Thanks for all the help.

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6 hours ago, Lannyl81 said:

Short Update: received the new shims, installed them and swapped one shim to another location.  Put the cams in, rotated engine, checked all valves again and found that #4 inside intake was WAY too tight at about 0.003".  Removed the intake cam, checked the shim and I had written the initial shim measurement down incorrectly, so my calculation for the new shim was wrong.  Re-calculated and found that one of the shims I had removed would work.  So in it went then the cam.  Rechecked and all is good now.  Just waiting for the Hondabond HT sealant to arrive.  Gives me time to do additional cleaning and besides it is too cool to ride anyways.

Thanks for all the help.

Perfect 🙂 

 

Yeah - I use an Excel spreadsheet that reuse shims (priority is something like 1. on same cam, 2. on adjacent cam and 3. other cams) to get best gap and lowest number of new shims. Removed shims is automatically moved to stock so they may be used next time further reducing new shims.

Of course I still need to measure correctly 🙂

 

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13 hours ago, RC36B said:

 

Of course I still need to measure correctly 🙂

 

That's the tricky part, what exactly does a 'light sliding fit' feel like when the feeler gauge has to be bent to get it into the gap on some valves, but can go in straight on others?

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20 hours ago, daved said:

That's the tricky part, what exactly does a 'light sliding fit' feel like when the feeler gauge has to be bent to get it into the gap on some valves, but can go in straight on others?

 

It can be. It helped when I replaced my feeler gauge with a slightly more "slim" version with longer blades. Less force needed to bend and easier to use same bend throughout.

 

I start with too thick gauge - it is easy to feel when it is a "brick wall". Move down in thichness and you find the thickness to be tight, and where next is loose. I choose the thickness of the tight fit.

Sometimes it goes from "brick wall" to loose - then I use a thickness in between.

 

I work 4 ports at the time... feel them all with a thick blade combination. If all valves are "brick wall", reduce and try again. At som point you get to the thickness of one gap, the I continue work on 3 valves left... and so on. In this way it takes only a few minutes to do them all.

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