Tyy Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Interesting, so the '86 engine will work on my '84 without modification? What differences would a later engine have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Google is your friend. Loads of small but significant differences but it as far as I know, an 86 engine will fit in a 84/85 frame. It better, because I will be trying it this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Out in the shed right now having issues with my throttle cables. The snap when I release is nowhere near as fast as it want it. Also something really dangerous is afoot. When I turn full lock to the right the throttle sticks. This is screaming disaster at me. I think it may have something to do with where the cables are routed now. I put mine in between the forks and past the right hand side of the steering neck. I don't know if they are getting pinched or something. Does anyone have a close up picture of where youve routed your cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted April 12, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted April 12, 2017 1 hour ago, Tyy said: Out in the shed right now having issues with my throttle cables. The snap when I release is nowhere near as fast as it want it. Also something really dangerous is afoot. When I turn full lock to the right the throttle sticks. This is screaming disaster at me. I think it may have something to do with where the cables are routed now. I put mine in between the forks and past the right hand side of the steering neck. I don't know if they are getting pinched or something. Does anyone have a close up picture of where youve routed your cables? You probably just need to add some slack using the adjuster on one of the cables right near the right switch assy. The adjuster is 8mm with a 10mm lock nut. Adjust to where the the throttle will still return at full lock both directions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 I found that out when I was half way through tearing it apart to oil the cables. I also learned to keep tension on the cables when they are out of the tube. One of my cables went too far slack an came out of the carb. I decided I could put it back on without removing the carburetor, which turned out to be very hard. With one hand pulling the throttle open, another using improvised chop-sticks, and a screw driver in my teeth. I managed to put it back. In hind sight, I would have exerted a lot less effort removing the carbs. Never the less I feel like I have achieved something... I will accept my trophy of stubbornness now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted April 13, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted April 13, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 I got the bike off of my makeshift motorcycle lift today. I ought to know before I choose what to do next, if you can remove the rear cylinder head without taking the engine out. If I can indeed do that, it would save me an enormous amount of time and effort. I'd like to hear from somebody who has possibly tried this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2017 Send pm to The Dutchy if he does not chime in today :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 If you can get the collector box off, taking the engine out is very easy on the 500. The extra access it gives is invaluable IME. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2017 *IF* you get it off yes.... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Hmm... I will test how securely my Henkel pipe is attached in case I do need to remove the whole engine. Actually yeah I need to clean that thing anyways. Just a side note; what have you guys used for surface rust? I bought CLR Metal Cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDutchy Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 As far as i know, you can´t get the rear head removed with the engine in the frame.. Allthough the 500 does have bolts on the outer corners of the cilinderhead, instead of studs like the VF750 and VF1000, the timing chain guides cause trouble. You can´t raise the head far enough to clear these guides.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Hello all, I have silently been working on the VF500 for awhile. I got everything sorted out except the engine. It runs and drives, but it does indeed lack power on the high end. I assume the power issues are only because of the 4th cylinder not making compression. Recently though, on a ride to the shop to get it inspected, a loud rattle developed in the right side crank case, near the clutch. With the surmounting engine problems I want to swap the engine. This leads me to my current predicament, VF500's in my area have been either too expensive or pillaged for parts. There is however a VF1000 for a fair price. Would an engine swap be possible from the 1000? How similar are the bikes(both are '84s)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Forbes Posted July 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2017 Sorry man, way too big for your frame. Won't even fit into 750 frame. Rebuild or wait for something.Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted July 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2017 8 hours ago, Forbes said: Sorry man, way too big for your frame. Won't even fit into 750 frame. Rebuild or wait for something. Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Not really relevant here, but the 1000 motor will fit in the 83-85 700/750F frame. "The Gimp" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Forbes Posted July 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2017 Gimp! Seriously? Haven't had them side by side, but 1000 frame looked to be shaped differently at the front. Does it slot in or some modification? Interesting, have another bike for another project.....Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted August 7, 2017 Author Share Posted August 7, 2017 Rejoice! I have got my hands on an engine! Thanks to my aunt and uncles connection with a person from the Vintage Road Racing Association here in Ontario I got this engine for free. It was destined for the dump Ive been told. It looks like it has been sitting for a while, very dirty on the outside and one of the intake ports was not plugged, it has rust on top of the valve. However, the rest of the valves are clean, under the valve covers it is rust free. Everything moves when I turn it over with a wrench. Ive yet to peak inside the cylinders, but I managed to prop it up on some wood to drain the oil. Here's where I am worried. The oil seems milky. I dont know if this is because it has been sitting for a long time or if it is coolant contamination. I do not know what year this engine is, it has bare metal side covers. Also tell me if this next picture is what I think it is... Lastly here is my engine model number, if anyone recognizes where it is from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 1 hour ago, Tyy said: It was destined for the dump Ive been told. Maybe they thought it would be a good deed to help a young dude trying to revive a bike nearly twice his age. Good luck with the project, maybe you are getting to the home stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Forbes Posted August 8, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2017 Good score....yes, seems you have an oil mod. A motor that's been standing for so long would need to be opened? Compression test?Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 8, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2017 There was a table with VF500 engine serial numbers, but it got hosted on Phofofucket so it is gone...... the oil mod (not that it needs one...) is a sign it was cared for by its owner at some point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 17 hours ago, Forbes said: Good score....yes, seems you have an oil mod. A motor that's been standing for so long would need to be opened? Compression test? Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Do you mean splitting the heads? Is there anything in the way other than the bolts? Can I do a compression test turning it by hand, or maybe a drill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Yes, that's an oil mod alright. You don't often see them on a VF500. I hope it is all there and it works OK for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Its a Magna VF500C engine by the looks of it. You don't have to split it but you should take the cam covers off and look at the cams and make sure all the valves are present and correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Forbes Posted August 8, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2017 Do you mean splitting the heads? Is there anything in the way other than the bolts? Can I do a compression test turning it by hand, or maybe a drill?Drill may work if all plugs are out! Just jump straight to a battery would be easier.Someone may have a better method, but I'd be rinsing the motor with paraffin before spinning it to much. If your oil looks as it does from the sump, it's not going to look good in the rest of the motor.Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyy Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 Ummm a Magna engine?? Is this thing going to work? The mounting points seem to be the same. I inspected the engine under the valve covers, since I need in there to do a valve timing, and it looks rust free. My 56'000km engine had rust though. As with the paraffin thing, how do you recommend doing it? A quick google search is trying to tell me its a bad idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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