TheDutchy
-
Content Count
116 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
-
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
TheDutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
Say that again… I was praying backwards a few times, but finaly I got them. And if the tools are not at hand when needed, you have to improvise and make them yourself.. Just for those synch screws--> I want that factory tool.. No, not the one that they sell as a service tool, I want the one they had on the assembly line.. #2 is a pain in the butt.. You have to open the throttle just a wee bit to be able to turn the synch screw. Good day of wrenching and surprised to see the VF500 being aged 30+ just needs little tweaks to keep her up to snuff.. How was she on the way home? Did she remark some positive notice on the ride home? -
Biggest "thing" between 84/85 model and the 86 is the oilpump and oilsump. On the '86 the oilpump is bigger and the sump holds a little more oil..
-
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
TheDutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
When you have a GPS telling you the right travelling speed.. When you have a phone installed on your BT headset (with flitsmeister) giving you audible information when you are going to fast.. ? ? Why on earth do you need a lightbulb fixed on your odo??? I don't get it.. -
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
TheDutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
To make it easy.. -
I tend to stay away from a dynojet upgrade kit. Dynojet needles are way harder than the original Honda needles. The needle seat on a VF carb can't be replaced. So if the seat would be damaged by the needle, and the seat can't be relaced, we are facing carb replacement.
-
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
TheDutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
That colour is that "Action Black" ? -
Indeed.. We got rid of the rear and in fact have a YSS rear shock.. Front has been updated.. Got rid of the anti-dive and preset option. Cartridges/emulators have been placed with new linear springs.. Great news Tyy you got the carbs sorted.. Maybe you have to dig into them one more time, but that's a maybe.. When the outside temperatures go up, and also when the engine gets realy warmed up, you might find ut the engine is getting sluggish at low rpms.. You will notice the difference between cold and fully warm.. Colder needs fuel enrichment, warmer means you have to lean the fuel amount.. So if you encounter the engine getting sluggish, or not feeling that linear at low rpms warmed up, you might want to drop the size to 40 on the slow jets. Happy Trails....
-
For the location of the carbcode, here is an example:
-
Yup, this is a track.... It's an abandoned military base in Germany... In classic events, we don't call it racing, it's a "Test Skill Ride".. And yes I do agree it has a certain risk level... On this german event, the levels are elevated, other events, even have higher risk elements, like racing over cobble stones through city streets... Wasn't it The Boss singing about racing in the Streets ?
-
The slow jet is standard #38.. I wouldn't go beyond #40 on the slow jet. On most of the VF series the slow jet is #38. On my VF750 street bike the slowjet is #40. On the VF750 endurance racer, the slow jet is #42. I would recommend to install #40 on the slow jet. On the main jet, it is a different story, it is depending on what carb code is installed. The carb code is printed on the side of each carb housing, just above the mating surface of the float bowl. Different carbcode means different main jet sizes. Standard they came with: 1984 #108 mains all around.. 1985 VD41A A #90 #92 1985 VD41A B #92 #95 1986 #92 #95 The differences are caused by: Different breather lines on the float bowls, different emulsion tubes on the main jets, different vac. slide/membrane, fuel pump / gravity fed.. So, determine the carb code, lower the size of the slow jet, lower the size on the main jet..
-
As above, drop the jet sizes... We are running 112 with open box, open baffles... For street use, I would not recommend that.. But it is an indication that at least you have to resize the 117's below the 112's.. (98/95 is a maybe, you have to trial and error these jetsizes) Listening to your vid., you take her to about 5krpm. That is about where the main jets start to take over. If you take her above 6k and she starts to stumble heavy at 6 , 7, 8, 9 krpm. The jets are to big.. The engine is choking on the amount of fuel... And yes, the engine won't mind, neither get hurt taking her beyond 9krpm.. Here the VF500F with a modified '86 engine running on track.. Look at the rpm's The earlier '84 and '85 engines have issues if you run her above 9k for extensive periods.. It will run the conrod bearings out.. The 1986 versions have a modified oilsump and pump that takes care of it.. This same VF500F also runs 4 hour Endurance events.. Imagine a VF500F run for four hours on that same track as in the vid... I know she held up fine.. It took me 8 times getting the carbs out / swapping jets / building the carbs back in / balancing them / and test ride it.. Once we got it right, we never needed to go back into the carbs again..
-
VF500F2 Aka MBD Incubation Period At Least 52 Years
TheDutchy replied to Dutchy's topic in Earlier VFRs
And A river runs through it.. -
Yeah, and above 10k. But if you take a look at the torque graph, 10k is about the sweet spot..
-
On the vid... Do you really hit 5krpm ?? Take her up to 10K, that is the ballpark we take the engine.. Till 4K it is only the slow jet..(#38) To test the mains you have to take her up beyond that point..
-
We run the VF500F with open baffles and open airbox.. So lots of air and a need for large jets you would figure.. Here is a testrun with 120 mains... You van hear it stumble in the high range rpms. Pulled the plugs and they were heavily soothed and near wet.. So resized the jets to 112.. And back.. So, I think the 117 is a bit big for a main on a stock VF500F engine..
