bobbyn Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 22 hours ago, Cogswell said: That's a very sharp looking install. Nicely done. I wish I understood its operation better. I'm guessing here - but the longer lever is the brake and the shorter operates the clutch - or? It would be very interesting if you'd care to share more about how it works. You are correct. The short lever is the clutch and the longer lever is the rear brake. The foot brake operates the front brakes. This allows me to pull the clutch in a panic stop. Honda used a 14mm rear master cylinder which allows very nice braking pressure for the front brakes. There are no other mods. The fact I could use the existing brake lines on the bike saved a lot of money and work. Taking off and reinstalling the body work was a bitch! I wonder what team at Honda dreams up this puzzle. Its obvious they never work on bikes. My next upgrade will be installing the center stand. I'm registering the bike in the morning and will give it a shake down run this weekend. More to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyn Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 So I took the Interceptor out for a shake down run yesterday and was promptly disappointed. The twin master cylinder hand control unit has two design features that make it very different from my old unit. Both center on the levers. The short lever is designed for one finger use, or two very small fingers. Not that big a deal, it's a change from my old, two finger short lever, but I can adapt. The real problem is the long lever has a "folding" design to prevent breakage in the event of a crash/tip over. While I think this is over engineering, or fixing something that ain't broke, I can understand why the manufacturer would add it. It's an expensive precision made unit, the lever is an integral part and breaking, bending it from a parking lot tip over would be costly. Being that people with disabilities are the prime customers, a parking lot fall is a distinct possibility. My problem is that I have a normal size hand for a man and my forefinger and middle finger crowd the short lever and rub on the long lever. That causes the long lever to fold out of reach of my ring finger and pinky while riding, making that brake useless. Because I am also throttling with my hand, any effort to unfold the lever causes unnecessary, abrupt throttle response, making the ride even less pleasant. I tried to remedy the issue by removing the bolt to replace the flex washers, but the bolt head stripped in the process, making any further attempt at repairs useless. The manufacturer, a West Performance, out on the Isle of Man, UK has been very responsive to all my inquiries, usually answering within a short while. This is great being they are across the Atlantic and 6 hours ahead of my time zone. My contact has been Wal and he has walked me through both spec and design information. Before I attempted to remove the lever bolt, Wal let me know Loctite was used in assembly and assured me they would replace the unit if the bolt failed. So instead of riding today, I am removing the unit to ship it back. I've asked if they could "affix" the long lever so it doesn't fold on the replacement unit. I can buy those racing lever protectors that attach to the bar end. I did put 117 miles on the clock on the trial run, but man I am so pissed and frustrated. It will be at least two more weeks before that replacement unit will arrive and this is prime riding weather here in the northeast. At least all the "chicken strips" are off the new tires. I haven't even touched on how the new VFR800 rides! Thank god I still have my VFR750. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Sorry to be late to the party, but you would probably be better served by a machinist next time. It would have been faster at least, if not cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 For the brake adapter that is - I didn't read to the end before responding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyn Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 It's been a while since posted, mainly because bit took almost a month to send my Twin Master Cylinder unit back to the Isle of Man to replace one of the levers. The large lever had a "fold away" feature that didn't work for me. The unit wasn't advertised with this feature either. Regardless it arrived earlier this week and I installed it today. After bleeding the rear brake & clutch (a minor adventure) I took it on a quick ride. As with any custom application, the devil is in the details. The clutch seems to work, but the shifting is notchy and not smooth at all. I have to really work to find neutral. Do it attribute this to the bike being brand new or is this problem? Comments please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer fink Posted October 22, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2016 No problems on STD bike. May be stroke/ diameter of master cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted October 22, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2016 Hey Bobby, I have not had issues finding neutral on my DLX, ever. Transmissions do break in a bit of course. I do have some notchyness on occasion getting the bike down into 1st. Not surprisingly worse when I'm approaching a service interval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ragtop Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Mine was a little notchy when new, but at 12,000+ miles is smooth as silk. Also had issues finding neutral when new, but no issues now. Other bikes I've owned wouldn't go into neutral from 2nd, so I chalked it off to learning the nuances of the VFR. You might still have some air in the lines. A trick I've used is pulling the clutch lever to the bar, and securing it there overnight with the reservoir cap off. Tap the lines with a screwdriver handle to encourage the air bubbles to release. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyn Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 4 hours ago, 01ragtop said: Mine was a little notchy when new, but at 12,000+ miles is smooth as silk. Also had issues finding neutral when new, but no issues now. Other bikes I've owned wouldn't go into neutral from 2nd, so I chalked it off to learning the nuances of the VFR. You might still have some air in the lines. A trick I've used is pulling the clutch lever to the bar, and securing it there overnight with the reservoir cap off. Tap the lines with a screwdriver handle to encourage the air bubbles to release. YMMV. Excellent idea. I have the cap off, but I'll clamp the clutch lever to the bar. Be right back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyn Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Here's hoping all is well in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer fink Posted October 23, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2016 No need to leave cap off. All that will do is to help the fluid absorb water so adding to your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ragtop Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 The cap doesn't have to be all the way off, but it does have to be loose. How much water you think the fluid will absorb overnight? Any improvement, bobbyn? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted October 23, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2016 The notchy shifting and hard-to-find neutral are symptoms of a clutch that is not fully disengaged, so either there is air in the lines, or the master cylinder is not travelling far enough to move enough fluid (or is too small a diameter). I'd suggest getting a vacuum bleeder (pretty cheap at your local auto parts store) and pulling fluid through the clutch slave bleed. In my own experience, the clutch pull will feel springy when there is air in there, rather than the more normal hydraulic stroke feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyn Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 1 hour ago, Terry said: The notchy shifting and hard-to-find neutral are symptoms of a clutch that is not fully disengaged, so either there is air in the lines, or the master cylinder is not travelling far enough to move enough fluid (or is too small a diameter). I'd suggest getting a vacuum bleeder (pretty cheap at your local auto parts store) and pulling fluid through the clutch slave bleed. In my own experience, the clutch pull will feel springy when there is air in there, rather than the more normal hydraulic stroke feel. You are correct, sir. The cap off the reservoir didn't really seemed to have had any adverse effect. I took a 140 mile ride and ride the notchy shifting was gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyn Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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